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TURKEY TOURISM : ISTANBUL TRAVEL & TOURISM GUIDE

Istanbul sights

Istanbul is the only city embracing two continents: Asia and Europe. The Bosphorus, meandering through the heart of the city, combines the waters of the Black Sea and Marmara Sea.

Istanbul, the former capital of three empires- Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman- displays many surviving historical works of art revealing the traces of these empires.

Istanbul, while preserving the inheritance of its past looks forward to its modern future…

Istanbul a source of inspiration for photographers, artists, poets...

As you rest on the European shore of the Bosphorus at sunset and look at the golden evening light reflected on the windows of the houses on the Asian shore, or as you stand on the Asian shore and watch the sun setting behind the elegant minarets of old Istanbul, you immediately appreciate, why so many centuries ago, people chose to settle on this extraordinary spot. Indeed there will be times you feel Istanbul is really one of the most glorious cities in the world.

KEY ATTRACTIONS

Istanbul is famous not only for its historical works but also for its historical natural beauties. We wish to share with you Cahit Akyol's "Centennial Trees of Istanbul" article, which was published in the Hürriyet daily newspaper in April 2004.
In order to be considered as "monumental", a tree must be certified by the committees for the Protection of Cultural and Natural Treasure. Age is not the only factor; the tree should also be of above-average size for its species or have a folkloric or historical value. It is forbidden to prune these trees without the permission of the Protection Committee.

The most famous ones are listed below:

Eyüp Sultan Çınarı - Eyüp Sultan's Plane
Venue: the outer court of Eyüp Sultan mosque
Family: Eastern Plane
Diameter: 2.87 meters
Height: 20.5 meters
Age: about 600 years old
When Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror conquered Istanbul, he had a mosque built at the site of Halid bin Zeyd's tomb. Halid bin Zeyd had died during the siege of the Umayyads. After 600 years, Eyüp Sultan mosque has become one of the most frequently visited mosques in Istanbul, and this plane is considered to be of the same age as the mosque.

Taşlı Çınar of Fatih (Fatih's Plane with Stone)
Venue: opposite the gate to Gülhane Park, Eminönü
Family: Eastern Plane
Diameter: 2.30 meters
Height: 23.5 meters
Age: about 300 years old
It is believed that a stone is buried next to this gigantic plane tree located in the middle of the road leading to Sultanahmet from Sirkeci and that this stone had startled Fatih's (Mehmet the Conqueror's) gray horse. However, the tree is not as old as Fatih.

Doğu Çınarı (Eastern Plane)
Venue: In the garden of Midilli Ali Reis Mosque
Family: Anatolian poplar
Circumference: 6 meters
Diameter: 1.91 meters
Age: about 200 years old

FORESTS & GROVES

Istanbul, once surrounded by forests, has lost most of its greenery due to unplanned and speedy urbanization.
Despite the mass destruction of its forests, numerous groves and parks still remain and are perhaps even more appreciated now by Istanbul residents and visitors alike.

Atatürk Arboretum
Atatürk Arboretum, known as a living tree museum, is on Büyükdere-Kemerburgaz road and 20 km away from Istanbul. This area displays not only its local flora but also many more elected trees and plants brought from all over the world. Resembling a laboratory the arboretum serves as a source to many researches. It is open every day from 09:00 to17:00 and it is forbidden to picnic, ride bicycles, photograph without permission and/or to bring your pets. It is open to public only on weekdays. Only members are accepted on weekends.

Emirgan Grove
between Baltalimanı and Istinye, is famous for its pavilions and Çınaraltı (Plane tree) Café.
The pavilions, Yellow, Pink and White, were built by Khedive Ismail in the 19th century and now are run by the Municipality of Metropolitan Istanbul. You can visit these works of art for a reasonable price.

Orman Bahçe
When you pass Maslak and turn to Kilyos road, 1 km later you reach Fatih Ormanlarý (Fatih Forests), which cover about 150 acres and reach to Karadeniz coast. This area is called Orman Bahçe and supported by Dulcinea and Venue. The Orman Bahçe team has created a site secretly with nature and away from the city chaos. Open everyday between 10:00-23:00 except Mondays.
For more information:
Dulcinea: (212) 245 10 71 - 39 - 48
Venue: (212) 328 05 00

HISTORICAL MONUMENTS

Basilica Cistern

Yerebatan Sarayı
Yerebatan Caddesi, Sultanahmet
Tel: (212) 522 12 59
Open everyday from 09.00 to 19.00
Entrance fee 10.000.000 TL

Just opposite of Haghia Sophia rests the Yerebatan Sarayı (Basilica Cistern). Probably the most visited cistern in the world, the immense interior is spectacular, even with colored lights, piped-in music, a cappuccino bar, a gift shop, and occasional concerts. It was built by Byzantine Emperor Justinianus in the 6th century. It was called the basilica cistern because the "trade basilica" stood on the ground above.

It was also used by Ottomans, for collection and storage of water had always been one of the serious problems of Istanbul (even today).

Galata Tower
Galata is the area where the Golden Horn greets the Bosphorus. The word "gala" means milk in Greek. Although it has been stated that Galata’s name is derived from the dairies in the district, there is no historical proof to support this. Another possibility is that Galata comes from the Italian word “calata” meaning “the road leading down to the sea.”

Galata Tower was used as a shipyard, a warehouse, a prison and finally a fire-watch tower during the Ottoman period. For a period of time during the Ottoman era the public referred to it as “Hezarfen Tower”. Hezarfen Ahmet Çelebi took off from the top of the tower and flew to the slopes of Üsküdar by means of artificial wings and becoming the first man to fly since the mythical Icarus.

In the sixties the Galata tower was converted into a tourist attraction. The tower opens at 9 o’clock and the entrance fee is 5.000.000 during the daytime. Enjoy the stunning views of Topkapı Palace, both the Galata and Atatürk Bridges over Golden Horn, Haghia Sophia, The Blue Mosque, and most of the old city while sippinga Turkish coffee. It serves as a show place at dinner with belly dancers, Turkish folklore groups, and a performer singing unforgettable songs in several languages.

Galata Tower Restaurant
Closed on Sundays, reservation is requested
Tel: (212) 293 81 80
Fax: (212) 245 21 33

Leander´s Tower
Kız Kulesi, one of the symbols of Istanbul, was built to control the strategic passageway of the Bosphorus and to collect a passage fee (you may call it tribute) from the ships. Appearing small from afar, though in actuality not so small, it was a point of security according to the famous Turkish traveler Evliya Çelebi and was protected at times by up to 100 soldiers and 40 cannons.

The upper part of devastated tower was converted to concrete in 1943. The tower was used heaviyl by the Ministries of Transportation and Defense and Turkish Maritime and has been left alone since 1992. In 1995 it was assigned to Hamoğlu Holding and began to serve as a café and restaurant in 2000. However before opening to public the complex restoration of the tower was the cause of many heated debates between Istanbul lovers. The restoration and environmental changes have been critisized as not being suitable or in-line with its original design. Particularly the flattening of the rocks on which the tower was raised has received the most criticism. But due to this restoration the damage caused by Marmara Earthquake in 1999 has now been repaired.

Today you can eat, drink or enjoy the exquisite Marmara and Bosphorus panoramic view from its terrace. Don’t miss one of the best sunsets in this enchanting city. It is closed to the public on Mondays. Other days there are regular ring boat-trips from Salacak of Üsküdar and also boats from Ortaköy at 11:30, 13:30 and 17:30.

Kız Kulesi Café-Restaurant
Reservation requested.
Salacak, Üsküdar
Tel: (216) 342 47 47

Yedikule
Most of the standing walls in Istanbul, totaling 5.682 meters in length, starting at the end of the sea walls, were built by Emperor Theodosius (408-450). Besides defense, esthetics have played an important role when building them. The main entrance is at Yedikule. The visitors arriving Via Egnetia, which is the main road connecting İstanbul to Europe, entered the city from Khryse Plye (literally Golden Gate).
The Golden Gate was built as a three-vaulted victory arch and was protected by two marble towers.

A church was built on the inside of Yedikule in the 16th century for the worship of prisoners who were foreign embassy personnel and Europeans. Famous 17th century traveler Gelot wrote that privileged prisoners staying there were able to get permission to stroll in İstanbul with a bail bond from a European country Ambassador.

It is open everyday except Wednesday from 09:00 to 16:30.
Kule Meydanı 4, Yedikule

BEST MUSEUMS

Blue Mosque (Istanbul): This landmark mosque assumes a stance of authority over Sultanahmet Park. Just under the dome, hundreds of stained-glass windows sparkle like jewels until you are convinced that you're in the presence of a celestial being. The blue of the mosque actually changes to yellow, orange, and red, depending on the time of day and the entrance you choose to use.

Ayasofya (Istanbul): When faced with the dome of this masterpiece, it's tempting to mimic the actions of Mehmet the Conqueror almost 600 years ago and drop to your knees in a gesture of utter humility. The sensation is increased by the low level of filtered light that finds its way in, temporarily blinding you to everything except the source of illumination.

Topkapi Palace (Istanbul): Perspective check -- this was once somebody's house. Actually, it was the home of a whole lot of people -- up to 5,000 at a time, all in the service of one man. The sultan surrounded himself with the most beautiful women in the world. He collected the most precious treasures of the East. He assembled the most sacred relics of the Muslim faith under this roof. Six hundred years of Ottoman history, and it's all behind these grand ornamental gates.

THE BOSPHORUS

The Bosphorus Strait makes Istanbul one of the most beautiful cities of the world. Peerless water connecting two seas (Black Sea and Marmara) and two continents (Europe and Asia). This exquisite strait is about 31 km (20 mi.) long with a width varying 1 to 2.5 km (0.5 - 1.5 mi.) and is reported to be one of the worlds most difficult straits to navigate. It was naturally formed at the beginning of the IVth geological era as the seawater occupied the deep valley. Storms are not common in the Bosphorus, however the current carrying the extra water of Blacksea to Marmara makes the passage difficult.

During the Byzantine and Ottoman Empires small settlements appeared along both shores. Sultans and Pashas built their palaces, pavilions and yalıs (a Greek word meaning coast and used for water-front residences in Turkish) along the Bosphorus. Stone buildings such as Dolmabahçe, Beylerbeyi Palace,and Küçüksu Pavilion gave the Bosphorus its final outlook of "incomparable beauty".

Such beauty obviously has many legends. One of these is: In mythology Io was seduced by Zeus (God of Gods). Io changed into a milk-white heifer to protect himself from the rage and jealousy of his wife Hera. However Hera senses the situation and sent a gadfly which drove Io from land to land, and he crossed the strait between Asia and Europe, hence its name, "Bosphorous". "Bous": cow, "Phoros": ford.

Along both shores are many palaces, pavilions, ancient ruins, traditional red brick, milk white, and pink yalı's (waterfront houses) and beautiful forested areas. The beauty of the buildings embellishing the shores are highlighted by lovely greenery around them and hence make for delightful viewing. A wonderful cruise will provide unforgettable memories as will a simple tourist ferry departing from Eminonu. As the ferry passes the shore, at times you will be so close to the yalıs that if you look hard you might see the occupants through the curtains lightly blown by the breeze, as they sip their coffee and read the newspapers. Sundays are popular time for ferry rides so be at least 1 hour early if you want a place on board.

Bosphorus excursions

Turkish Maritime organizes daily cruises every summer. The following are the ones for the summer of 2004
Moonlight Excursions
Turkish Maritime Lines arranges Bosphorus excursions called "Moonlight Excursions" every Saturday night. The Barış Manço ferry takes off from the Moda terminal at 18:30. It stops at the Old Kadıköy Ferry Terminal (18:50), Eminönü (19:15), Üsküdar (19:30), Beşiktaş (19:40), Ortaköy (19:50) and continues its way through the Bosphorus. There is a café on the second floor where you can dance to the music played. The third deck hosts a BBQ and serves beverages. The ferry reaches Anadolu Kavağı at 20:50 and, after a break for two hours there, begins its return trip at 23:00. . We suggest you board the ship at Moda port in order to find seat.

Excursions to Bosphorus
Tükiye Denizcilik İşletmeleri (Turkish Maritime Lines) arranges special Bosphorus excursions every day at 10:35, 12:00 and 13:35. Ships leaves from the Eminönü port and stop at Beşiktaş, Kanlıca, Yeniköy, Sarıyer, Rumeli Kavağı and Anadolu Kavağı. The ferries take off from Anadolu Kavağı at 15:00, 16:15 and 17:00 and return to Eminönü stopping at the same ports. We suggest you board the ship at Eminönü port in order to find seat.
Tel: (212) 244 33 85 and (212) 249 16 95

Motorboat Excursions
These are the cheapest way to cruise along the Bosphrous. An excursion takes about an hour. Although the price changes according to the motorboat and the company, it averages about 2.000.000 TL per person. The boats take off from Eminönü and Beşiktaş and pick up passengers at Kadıköy and Üsküdar. Usually they return when they reach the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge. You can also rent these boats, however it is strongly recommended that you bargaining with the captain first.

Private tours with private boats
Some motorboats are only available for private tours and also serve food as requested with an additional cost to the tour price. The rental prices for four hours are as follows:
150 person capacity: US$150.
400-550 person capacity: US$500-800.
600-700 person capacity: US$800 - 1400.

Here are the names and phone numbers of some companies arranging private tours:
Done Reklam (212) 273 24 20
Çırağan Tekne: (212) 258 33 77
Lüfer tekneleri: (216) 308 67 70
Mavi Gezi: (0535) 894 32 94 Merve Tezcanlı
Orşan Tur: (0535) 279 79 58 Ferhat Doğansoy
Rota Yatçılık: (212) 251 64 10
Toygar: (212) 265 83 83

Ortaköy
Ortaköy; an interesting site just next to the European foot of the Bosphorus Bridge. Awakening early in the morning and you never guess when it goes to sleep.
A little square on the Bosphorous hosts its guests from all ages and all nationalities through out the year. One of the best-located Mosques of Istanbul is surrounding both the sea and the square. Several small pedestrians streets stretching to the main avenue create the soul of a beautiful village. This is Ortaköy.

Various bars, restaurants, galleries and souvenir shops are scattered on each street. Moreover, peddlers selling handmade silver jewellery, hand-knitted garments even sometimes home made cakes and pies. The most colorful view of Ortaköy is on weekends especially on Sundays with all artisans creating a sort of open-air market.

If you prefer the street of the car parking lot at the entrance of Ortaköy Square you'll be surprised by rows of Kumpir and Gözleme sellers. Kumpir is a kind of baked potatoes filled with vegetables and flavored by various sauces such as mayonnaise, ketchup, butter, cheese etc. Typical Turkish food Gözleme is a sort of pancake or crepe filled with cheese or meat. Then comes the restaurants and bars. When you reach the seaside you will run into large sites called Kahve (Coffee house) or Çayhane (Tea house) as Turks call. Serving nearly the same food and beverage, the waiter of each "Kahve" is about to pull you in, not to let the nearest competitor steal (!) his client. Don't bother; and choose whichever you like, to enjoy a cup of tea. To remind you, only the restaurants are serving alcoholic beverages including beer. So check before making your self-comfortable in one of those houses if you want to have such a glass of drink.

Booksellers are billeted on the other side of the mosque. Besides old books you have a chance to find new ones and some foreign language magazines.

Harley Davidson café situated on the main road is the favorite place of "Motorcycle Fans" of Istanbul.

Prior having a nice lunch or dinner at one of the fish restaurants near the quay, especially in summer, you may wish to make a reservation to secure a table on the terrace or by the window.

PALACES

Topkapı Palace
Topkapı Sarayı
Sultanahmet
Tel: (212) 512 04 80 (4 lines)
Open everyday except Tuesday, from 09.00 to 16:00
Entrance fee is 12.00 YTL and an additional 10.00 YTL for the guided Harem tour. The entrance fee for the recently renovated Treasure Section is also 15.00 YTL

Topkapi in Turkish means "Cannon Gate". It eventually got this name from the cannons that guarded its most important water gates.

When Fatih Sultan Mehmet conquered Istanbul in 1453 he chose to build his palace on the site of the old Byzantine palace ruins that had been looted and destroyed by the Latins so Topkapi Palace lays on Sarayburnu (one of the seven hills of Istanbul), where the Bosphorus , Golden Horn and the Marmara Sea join. It's a place not only offering the most magnificent view of Istanbul but also a position where it could guard the entire city.

With its buildings erected in marble, its interior marvelously furnished, its massive walls, its slender towers, its gardens with pools, its fountains and centuries old plane and cypress trees, it is a mix of magnificent harmony. The Palace offers a sight that you will never be able to forget.This palace was used as the Ottoman residence for almost 400 years until the reign of Abdülmecid, and was therefore subjected to many changes as it passed from Sultan to Sultan.

In these luxurious surroundings the Sultans and their court lived and goconcubines were absolutely very beautiful women who would commit intrique, even murder, for power. However the Harem was a place governed by tradition, ceremony and obedience. Today the third court holds the Hall of Audience, the Library of Ahmet III, an exhibition of imperial costumes worn by the sultans and their families, the famous jewels of the treasury and a priceless collection of miniatures from medieval manuscript. In the center of this innermost sanctuary, the Pavilion of the Holy Mantle (Hirka-i Saadet) preserves objects belonging to Prophet Mohammed brought to Istanbul when the Ottomans assumed the caliphate of Islam in 1517.verned. A magnificent wooded garden fills the first court. On the right of the second court, shaded by cypress and plane trees, stand the palace kitchens, now galleries exhibiting the imperial collection of crystal, silver and Chinese porcelain. To the left is, the Harem the secluded quarters of the wives, concubines and children of the sultan, tending to charm visitors with the echoes of the intrigue of centuries. The Sultans' wives and

In the fourth courtyard of the palace, there are different mansions built by various Sultans, including the Bagdat, Revan, Sofa and Mecidiye residences. The Mecidiye Residence functions as "Konyalı" restaurant today.

After a thorough restoration during the Republican era, Topkapi Palace was converted into a museum. The towered outer entrance of the palace is called "Bab-i Hümayun" (Door of Sultan) getting its name from the time of Sultan Mehmet, the Conquerer for he was using this entrance. Then you reach the oldest church of the Byzantine period, St. Irene (Aya Irini). After the conquest it was used as the armory of the Janissaries (Ottoman soldiers).

Yıldız Palace
Tahsin Aydoğmuş
Yıldız Sarayı
Barbaros Bulvarı, Yıldız Parkı
Tel: (212) 258 30 80
Open everyday except Mondays from 10.00 to 17.00
Entrance fee: 2.00 YTL, free for students

The area where Yildiz Palace rises used to be a forest in Byzantine times. Sultans enjoyed the grounds in the era of Süleyman the Magnificent. The first building was constructed in this area by Sultan Selim III. However the real development of Yıldız Palace began in the second half of the 19th century under Abdülhamid II Sultanate.

Architects Sarkis and Agop Balyan (from the famous architect Balyan family) designed the mansions named “Büyük Mabeyn”, “Şale”, “Küçük Şale”, “Malta” and “Çadır”. The winter gardens and greenhouses, guardhouse, harem, Yaveran mansion, stables, theater house and exhibition building were all planned by the architect d'Aronco.

The Yıldız complex of palaces, residences and administration, security and service buildings, scattered over 500,000 square meter park areas, carry the reminiscences of many events from Turkey's recent history.

The compound includes a series of pavilions and a mosque in addition to the State Pavilions at Yıldız Palace. Abdülhamit II completed it at the end of the 19th century. The Şale, the largest and most superb of the buildings, reveals the luxury the sultans lived in and entertained. Set in a huge park of flowers, shrubs and trees gathered from every part of the world, the palace grounds offer one of the most beautiful panoramic views of the Bosphorus. Because of restoration work, only the Şale and Yıldız Park are open to the public nowadays.

Fransız Sokağı - French Street
If New York has Chinatown and Little Italy, then Istanbul has "French Street" (Fransız Sokağı). "Rue Française", with tented buildings, street musicians, cafés, bars and art centers, opened in summer of 2004.

The street behind Galatasaray High School known as Cezayir (Algeria) Street was completely renovated from head to toe by a group lead by Mehmet Taşdiken within the scope of a two-year project. The buildings and sidewalks were improved and a special music system was established. Taşdiken had close contacts with the Municipality of Paris, so the stones of the street were arranged by Parisian architects, and 100-year-old coal-gas street lamps from the Municipality of Paris were installed.

Mehmet Taşdiken says "the French have a very important legacy in Beyoğlu. Most of the establishments of Beyoğlu, such as the first cafés and first movie theaters, were established by the French in the 19th century and the buildings on the left of Cezayir Street bear the signature of French engineer-contractor Marius Michel, who lived in Istanbul between 1890 and 1910 and built the Karaköy and Eminönü docks."

Fransız Sokağı has a covered area of 9,000 square meters and a capacity of 3000 people together with the open-air areas. The number of daily visitors is around 6.500. The heaters on the streets allow the open areas to be used even on cold days.

Various establishments in two-three story buildings have turned Fransız Sokağı, formerly Cezayir Sokak or Hayriye Çıkmazı, into a 7-day-a-week live culture and entertainment center, with cafés, restaurants, street concerts and artists, and an art gallery.

HISTORICAL MOSQUES

Rüstem Paşa Mosque
The illuminated mosques of Istanbul, gleaming at night like jewels of a crown are sure to catch your attention. This section outlines the historical mosques of Istanbul still standing from 15th century and open to worship. Muslims perform prayers (namaz) five times a day -morning, noon, afternoon, evening and night - either at mosques or at home. However the Friday noon prayer, called Cuma namazı, is especially for men and all Muslim men are encouraged to perform the prayer at a mosque. If you would like to visit a mosque, it is best to do so outside of prayer times, so as not to disturb worshippers. All visitors are asked to remove their shoes and women are expected to cover their heads before entering. Since namaz (prayer) takes place on the ground, the floors are covered with carpets and to walk on the carpets with your shoes on is out of the question. There are shelves at the entrance of the mosques in which to place your shoes. However at the busier mosques, frequented by tourists, we suggest you take your shoes with you to avoid theft. Please also keep in mind that sleeveless shirts and shorts are not acceptable attire when entering a mosque. Even you visit a mosque out of worship hours you may still see Muslims praying, performing prayer or reciting versus from the Koran. Once again, you are strongly reminded to remember that a Mosque is a holy place of worship and to act, speak, and dress accordingly.

Dolmabahçe Camii (Dolmabahçe Mosque)
This mosque located on the Bosphorus in the southern part of Dolmabahçe Palace is one of the artworks of the Balyan family of architects. It is one of the highly decorated Baroque-style mosques. As a part of the palace complex it contains a front section in which the Sultan and state officials could worship. The spherical arrangement of the windows, resembling a peacock tail is an unusual sight fairly uncommon among the architect of mosques. The two minarets both have a gallery. The inner door is ornamented in a combination of the Baroque and Empire styles. A precious chandelier hangs from the niche. The mihrap (niche) and the minber (pulpit) of the mosque are made of porphyry marble.

Eyüp Camii (Eyüp Mosque)
This is considered to be holiest mosque in all of Istanbul. The Ottoman Sultans held their coronation ceremonies here. The faithful still flock here to pray to the relics of Eyüp, a companion of the Prophet Mohammed who died during the Islamic assault on Constantinople in 670. It is outside the city walls, near the Golden Horn. Eyüp was also the first mosque built after the Ottoman conquest of the city. Be sure not to visit on Fridays, when the mosque is packed with worshippers. Up the hill through the graveyard is the impressive Pierre Loti Café House, offering refreshments and a fascinating view of the Golden Horn.

Source: mymerhaba.com & Frommer's