Singapore City was founded in 1819 by Sir Stamford Raffles of the British East India Company, who recommended that different areas of the town be set aside for the various ethnic groups. There are still fascinating pockets where more traditionally exclusive enclaves exist, principally in Chinatown, Arab Street, Serangoon Road (focus of the Indian community) and Padang Square with very strong colonial associations. The best way to experience the remarkable diversity of the city is on foot: the traditional architecture, customs and cuisine of the various ethnic areas are in fascinating contrast to the lavish luxury shopping arcades of Orchard Road and Raffles City.
Orchard Road is the ‘Fifth Avenue’ or ‘Oxford Street’ of Singapore, and just as bustling, with its vast luxury malls, shops ranging from megastores to vendors of souvenir tat, as well as cafes and restaurants. The corner bar of the Singapore Marriott Hotel, itself a landmark, is the prime spot to watch the world go by.
Arab Street is the centre of the Arabian quarter of Singapore, and a great place for shopping. Other streets with excellent shopping opportunities are Baghdad Street and Bussorah Street, while Sultan Plaza is a centre for cloth traders. The golden domes of the Sultan Mosque, Singapore’s chief Muslim place of worship, dominate the area; nearby are two historic Muslim burial grounds.
Chinatown, though somewhat overwhelmed by the growth of the Financial District, is a bustling and colourful area with shops, teahouses and restaurants, and also several temples such as the Fuk Tak Ch’i in Telok Ayer Street and the Temple of the Calm Sea. Ancient crafts of calligraphy, papermaking and fortune-telling are practised, and traditional goods and foodstuffs can be bought. The characteristic domestic architecture of Singapore – the shop-house with a moulded front, shuttered upper floor and an arcaded street front – is much in evidence.
Serangoon Road is the centre of Little India, the Indian quarter stretching from Rochar Canal to Lavender Street. The Zhu Jiao Centre, at the southern end of Serangoon Road, is a particularly vibrant example of Little India. Other attractions in the area include the Sri Veeramakalimman Temple, the Mahatma Gandhi Memorial Hall in Race Course Lane and Farrer Park.
No trip to Singapore would be complete without a visit to the Raffles Hotel, one of the most famous hotels in the world. A ‘Singapore Sling’ in the Long Bar is almost de rigueur; alternatively, drop into the Writers’ Bar which provided inspiration for, amongst others, Noel Coward, Somerset Maugham and Joseph Conrad. The CHIJMES complex near the Raffles Hotel was developed out of the former Convent of the Holy Infant Jesus, whose Gothic shell is the basis for a series of plazas housing chic shops, restaurants and bars. A statue of Sir Stamford Raffles has been erected on the banks of the Singapore River on the spot where he is believed to have first set foot in Singapore. Nearby is Parliament House, the oldest government building in the country, the core of which dates back to the 1820s. Boat Quay and North Boat Quay, flanking the river on both banks near the Raffles statue, has now become one of Singapore’s most popular bar and recreation areas, with traditional shop-houses converted into restaurants and clubs. Clarke Quay forms a triangle defined by a bend in the Singapore River. It is a complex of colonial ‘godowns’ (eastern term for warehouses) converted into a maze of bars, outdoor eating places, clubs, souvenir shops and mobile stalls that present the ‘Old Singapore’ tourist experience at its most concentrated, if occasionally tacky. Riverside Walk, on the opposite riverbank, extends the zone further, and the whole area is a must-see for visitors. Mohamed Sultan Road, west of Clarke Quay, is Singapore’s classiest bar and club strip.
PARKS & GARDENS IN SINGAPORE CITY
The Botanic Gardens, over 47 hectares (116 acres) of landscaped parkland and primary jungle, are situated to the west of the city (Napier/Cluny roads), and are home to a wide range of animal and plant life. Within the gardens you will find the National Orchid Garden which has the largest collection in the world. Opening hours are Mon-Fri 0500-2300 and until midnight at weekends and public holidays. Admission is free.
The Bukit Timah Reserve, established in 1883 and located northwest of the Botanic Gardens on Bukit Timah Road, contains Singapore’s last stretches of original and immaculately manicured rain forest. The nature reserve also consists of tropical vegetation with clearly marked trails which lead up to Bukit Timah, the highest hill in Singapore. Admission is free.
Fort Canning Park, on Fort Canning Rise, was once an ancient fort of the Malay kings covering 2.8 hectares (7 acres). Colonial ruins of the British citadel can still be viewed, as can a 19th-century Christian cemetery. The Battle Box in the park is the old command bunker of the World War II defence of Singapore, now a museum open Tues-Sun 1000-1800, with a small admission fee charged.
The Mandai Orchid Garden (also called ‘Orchidville’) is a commercial orchid farm enshrining Singapore’s characteristic horticultural export, with a hillside of exotic orchid species. Opening hours: daily 0900-1730. An admission fee is charged.
The Kranji War Cemetery and Memorial, northwest of the Mandai Orchid Garden, commemorates the death of all those who fell in the catastrophic campaigns in the defence of Singapore during World War II. The cemetery and landscaped grounds are open daily; no flowers are allowed on the graves.
The Singapore Zoological Gardens, towards the north of the island of Singapore, are largely an open zoo, using natural barriers rather than iron bars. Over 170 animals live here, including many rare or endangered species, such as orang-utans, Sumatran tigers, Komodo dragons and clouded leopards. Daily attractions include ‘wild breakfast’ or ‘afternoon tea’ and ‘Animal Showtime’. One special and much publicised attraction is the Night Safari; a combination walking and tram tour of predominantly nocturnal species. The zoo is open daily 0830-1800 and the Night Safari daily 1930-2400.
OTHER ATTRACTIONS IN SINGAPORE CITY
Buddhist and Hindu temples, mosques and Catholic and Anglican cathedrals are all likely to be encountered during a comparatively brief walk around some of the central areas of Singapore. St Andrew’s Cathedral, the Cathedral of the Good Shepherd, the Al-Abrar Mosque, the vast and florid Kong Meng Sang Phor Kark See Temple Complex, the Chettiar Hindu Temple and the Sri Mariamman Temple are only a few of these.
Other interesting attractions in Singapore City include the Singapore Art Museum, the Asian Civilisation Museum; the National Museum & Art Gallery; Merlion Park; the Thong Chai Medical Institution; the Singapore Mint Coin Gallery; the Singapore Crocodile House (feeding time at 1100, crocodile wrestling at 1315 and 1615); and the Fort Cannings Aquarium in River Valley Road, with over 6000 species of freshwater and marine animals. Also not to be missed is Singapore’s new performing arts centre, which opened in October 2002.
Jurong
Jurong Town is the economic and industrial hub of Singapore, but offers visitors some unusual yet fascinating attractions.
The Singapore Science Centre, open Tues-Sun 1000-1800, is a remarkable complex which includes hundreds of interactive exhibits, the Aviation Gallery which traces the history of flight, and the Omnitheatre, a cinema with a planetarium-like screen.
Haw Par Villa (formerly The Tiger Balm Gardens) in Pasir Panjang Road is a surreal ‘Disneyesque’ statue park of Chinese mythological and historical figures, created by the Tiger Balm ointment dynasty. The Gardens are open daily 0800-1800.
The Chinese and Japanese Gardens are west of the centre by Jurong Lake. The two are linked by a 65m (200ft) ornamental bridge, and are fine examples of the skills of oriental landscape gardeners. The gardens are open daily 0900-1800. An admission fee is charged.
The Jurong Bird Park on Jurong Hill (near the Chinese and Japanese Gardens) covers more than 49.4 acres (20 hectares) and is home to Southeast Asia’s largest collection of birds. There is also the world’s largest walk-in aviary, a nocturnal house and several spectacular bird shows. The park is open Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat-Sun 0800-1800. An admission fee is charged.
The Islands of Singapore
SENTOSA ISLAND
The largest and best known of Singapore’s offshore islands is also one of the closest to the mainland. Sentosa is a multi-million dollar pleasure resort girdled by a monorail and offering a wide range of activities and attractions. These include the Underwater World and Dolphin Lagoon, Images of Singapore, the recently upgraded Musical Fountain Show, the Maritime Museum; and the New Food Centre. Lovely gardens, beautiful beaches and a plethora of restaurants and eating places all contribute to the island’s popularity with tourists and locals alike. Many prefer to skip the theme park attractions and head straight for Sentosa’s beaches – Siloso, Central and Tanjong – where a wide range of watersports is available. These were built with imported white sand and are often crowded, especially at weekends.
Sentosa is linked to Singapore by regular ferry services (every 15 minutes 0730-2245) and a cable car (Mon-Sat 1000-2100, Sun and public holidays 0900-2100). There are also bus, monorail and tram services linking Sentosa to the city centre, and the causeway bridge is open to foot traffic. An admission fee for entry to the island is charged and composite tickets can also be bought which give admission to some of the attractions; enquire locally for details. Resort hotels, camping and other accommodation are available on the island.
OTHER ISLANDS IN SINGAPORE
St John’s Island is large, hilly and tree-shaded with several excellent beaches. There are also several walking trails. There is a regular ferry service from the World Trade Centre that takes about one hour.
Kusu Island is noted for two landmarks: the Keramat (a Muslim shrine) and the Chinese Tua Pekong Temple. There is a regular ferry service from the World Trade Centre that takes about 30 minutes.
Pulau Hantu, Pulau Seking (with its traditional Malay stilt houses), Lazarus Island and the Sisters Islands (the latter being part of the group of Southern Islands) are ideal for fishing, snorkelling and swimming enthusiasts. There are no regular ferry services but boats can be chartered; enquire locally for information.
TOURIST TRANSPORTATION IN SINGAPORE
Travel - Internal
AIR
Sightseeing flights can be arranged locally through the Republic of Singapore Flying Club.
SEA
The Singapore Cruise Centre is located at the World Trade Centre, about 10 minutes drive from the city centre. Harbour cruises and ferry services to Singapore’s islands, Malaysia and the Indonesian Riau islands may be boarded at the ferry terminals located at the World Trade Centre and Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal at Changi. A ferry for Sentosa, the most popular offshore island, leaves every 20 minutes starting at 0730.
RAIL
There are regular and well maintained train services between all major cities and towns.
ROAD
Bus: There is a well-developed system of local services run by two main companies. The service is cheap and efficient and operates 0600-0000 daily. There are additional peak-hours-only shuttle and minibus services. A flat fare system operates on the one-man routes. A timetable and route map are available from bookstores. Car hire: There are several car hire/self-drive firms with offices at the airport and in hotels. Traffic drives on the left. Documentation: A national driving licence is sufficient for visits up to one month. For visits beyond one month an International Driving Permit is required.
URBAN
Trishaws: This traditional form of chauffeur-pedalled transport is a fun and exciting way to tour the streets of Singapore. Taxi: These are numerous and relatively cheap. They can be picked up from outside hotels and official ranks or flagged down in the streets. Taxis are metered. Some surcharges not shown on the metre include: S$1 for all luggage placed in the boot; 50 per cent on the metered fare for journeys between 0000 and 0600; S$3 for all journeys starting at the airport; S$1 for all trips starting in the Central Business District Mon-Fri 1630-1900 and Sat 1130-1400. It is possible to negotiate hourly rates for round-island tours. Metro: Singapore has one of the most advanced metro systems in the world. The trains operate 0530-0300 (0600-0000 on Sundays and public holidays) with stations being served on average every 6 minutes. Fares range from 70 cents to S$1.60. The Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is a modern, comfortable, efficient and cheap way to explore Singapore. Operation hours are 0530-midnight and the train timetables are posted at each station. On average trains run at 5 to 6 minute intervals. Over 40 stations link the city centre and suburbs, thus providing an opportunity to visit some of Singapore’s attractions along the two main routes, the north–south line and the east–west line. The MRT system has also recently been extended out to Changi Airport.
Singapore Tourism Board
1st Floor, Carrington House, 126-130 Regent Street, London W1B 5JX, UK
Tel: (020) 7437 0033 or (08080) 656 565 (toll free in UK). Fax: (020) 7734 2191.
E-mail: info@stb.org.uk
Website: www.visitsingapore.com
Also incorporates the Singapore Exhibition & Convention Bureau.
TOURISM ACCOMODATION / HOTEL IN SINGAPORE
Accommodation in Singapore
HOTELS
There is a wide variety of accommodation, ranging from budget to modern high-class hotels. These have extensive facilities including swimming pools, health clubs, several restaurants, full business services and shopping arcades. It is advisable to make advance reservations. All rooms are subject to four per cent tax and ten per cent service charge. For further information on accommodation in Singapore, contact the Singapore Tourism Board (see Contact Addresses section) who can supply the Singapore Hotels brochure. The following organisation also offers information: Singapore Hotel Association, 21 Bukit Batok Street 22, Singapore 659589 (tel: 415 3588; fax: 415 3510;
e-mail: feedback@stayinsingapore.com.sg;
website: www.stayinsingapore.com.sg).
Grading: Some hotels are designated as being ‘International Standard’ with all modern conveniences such as swimming pools and air conditioning, and prices range from S$100 a night. There is no formal star system of grading, however.
GUEST-HOUSES IN SINGAPORE
The majority of the guest-houses are situated along Bencoolen Street and Beach Road. Although considerably cheaper than the main hotels, guest-houses tend not to be good value for money, the price per night is usually between S$20 and S$30 for a small, ill-equipped room. Discounts are sometimes available when staying a few days.
YOUTH HOSTELS IN SINGAPORE
There are at least a dozen hostel-style establishments offering communal dormitory accommodation, the average price for a night’s accommodation is S$10 or less. There is one YMCA International hostel in Singapore.
CAMPING IN SINGAPORE
The few campsites there are in Singapore are inconveniently located, making camping a difficult option. Tents can be rented from the Universal Adventure shop on Pulau Ubin, and can be pitched on open land on the island. The only other option is to go to Sentosa island, where a four-person tent costs S$16 (which includes entrance fee to the island), pitched on a site with toilets and barbecue pits.
SINGAPORE HOTELS DIRECTORY
Business
Concorde Hotel
The Concorde Hotel is situated in a smart, charcoal-grey futuristic-looking building with a friendly ambience. It offers remarkable value, not least for the business traveller who can make use of a range of facilities and services, including secretarial, fax, photocopying, courier services, translation, library and use of overhead and slide projectors. The 500 rooms feature mini-bars, safes and cable and satellite television, while three floors are earmarked for businesspeople. There is a swimming pool, tennis court and gym. The hotel lies in a fairly quiet part of the city some way west of Chinatown.
The Gallery Hotel
The new chic Gallery Hotel, located within the city’s business hub, has gained quite a reputation – thanks to its designer cool and features such as a free mini-bar and interactive doorway CCTV (in deluxe rooms), free Internet access in all rooms and executive women-only floors. The 222-room hotel consists of three blocks linked by bridges and open walkways; a fifth-floor pool hangs over the street below. The red-, blue- and yellow-framed windows will appeal to the serious businessperson who enjoys a splash of colour. Room facilities include multilingual voice-mail and digital room safes. Different sized rooms are available in The Glazzhaus (which even has longer beds for extra tall people), with junior suites in The Observatory facing the river and king-sized beds in studio suites in the Executive Studio.
Novotel Apollo
Business travellers recently voted Singapore the world’s best business destination in a magazine poll; consequently many of the main business hotels can feel justified in refurbishing and tacking on more rooms. The Novotel, now part of Accor, one of the largest hotel and tourism companies, is no exception. Billing itself as ‘the business-class hotel’ in Havelock Road, there are now 480 rooms and a new wing after an S$80 million upgrade – mostly in soothing pastel shades and polished wood. There is an executive floor and a host of conference, banqueting and leisure facilities. A shuttle service runs to Orchard Road and from there to Chinatown. Rooms feature Internet access in deluxe rooms, cable television, voice-mail. There are European, Indonesian and Korean restaurants; a fitness centre, tennis facilities and a Jacuzzi. The ethnic quarter of Chinatown separates the hotel from the business hub by a short walk.
Swissotel The Stamford & Raffles The Plaza
These two giants, which stand beside each other and loom over the city (The Stamford is Asia’s third tallest hotel), were previously part of the same company and known as Westin Stamford and Westin Plaza, and they still consider themselves sister hotels. Between them, they provide more than 2000 well-equipped rooms, situated at the hub of the main business, cultural and shopping districts. They form part of the Raffles City complex and boast sophisticated convention and business centres, as well as the Amrita Spa. Covering the 70th to 72nd floors is the Equinox complex, with five restaurants and lounges. There are balconies with every room, harbour views on the higher floors, and each hotel has top-of-the-range decor with classical features. Raffles The Plaza has Szechuan, Japanese and Italian restaurants, as well as the usual lobby lounges and 24-hour cafés. These adjacent hotels, since their name change, continue to be some of the finest and most convenient hotels in town.
Raffles Hotel
A national monument, named after Singapore’s founding father, the Raffles Hotel is as much a point on the sightseeing trail as anything else (see Key Attractions). Still one of the most opulent and luxurious hotels in the world, it consistently ranks among the best in hotel polls. Restored a decade ago to its former glory, residents can step back in time in one of the 103 suites, which each come with their own valet. Royalty, celebrities and writers all stayed here and homage is paid to them at every turn, particularly in the hotel museum. Somerset Maugham made the first of three visits in 1921, while Noel Coward visited in 1930. Maurice Chevalier, Jean Harlow and Charlie Chaplin feature among a coterie of famous guests. Raffles is one place where living in the past is a definite plus. The Amrita Spa is the latest addition to a host of facilities, including swimming pool, business centre, florist, hotel arcade, boardrooms and its own theatre in Jubilee Hall.
The Ritz-Carlton, Millenia Singapore
This huge high-rise building has some of the best rooms on the island. Deft touches like timber and Tibetan rooms and baths that look down on the city has helped make it a favourite, as well as S$5 million worth of contemporary artworks, including Sunrise, a massive glass construction by Dale Chihuly. Features like a Greco-Roman pool set amid 2.3 hectares (seven acres) of landscaped tropical gardens, together with its location at the heart of the busy Marina Centre near the business and financial districts, have made it hard to beat. Its 610 rooms feature two-line telephones, fax on request, walk-in wardrobes and separate bath and shower rooms. The hotel’s signature restaurant is the Summer Pavilion, set in a picturesque lotus garden and serving Asian cuisine accompanied by a choice of 12 blends of Chinese tea, while Snappers sells Asian seafood. There is also a spa and gym, with top-of-the-range facilities.
Albert Court Hotel
This tidy boutique hotel, recently expanded and now with 156 rooms, is ideal for the visitor looking for reasonable value for money, in comfortable and pleasant surroundings. Plants and marble floors adorn a small entrance off Albert Street; the reception is just up the escalator. Facilities are functional rather than extravagant. Rooms have ceiling fans, colour television, shower/bath and mini-bar. Children under 12 years can stay for no extra cost. The hotel is situated at the junction of Rochor Canal Road and Selegie Road and is a short walk from the sights and sounds (and smells) of Little India and Bugis Village. Outside is a pleasant, paved courtyard that services a number of restaurants. The Orchard Road shops are a 15-minute walk away.
Allson Hotel Singapore
Moderate prices in new rooms make this four-star hotel a great deal. Situated close to local amenities, the Allson is just a short walk from central and shopping districts. There are 450 rooms and 16 serviced apartments and facilities include a barber and a hairdresser, a business centre, an outdoor swimming pool and Chinese and Japanese restaurants. Rooms are furnished in leather and rosewood and feature individually controlled air conditioning, free in-house movies and satellite television.
Shangri-La’s Rasa Sentosa Resort
This resort hotel is located on the island of Sentosa, which is only a 15-minute drive from the city. It is one of the best hotels on the island, with all 459 rooms having private balcony overlooking the sea or the hills of Fort Siloso. It is the only beachfront hotel in Singapore, but also has a range of leisure facilities, including a huge swimming pool, spa and sea sports centre, as well as international and Asian restaurants. There is a business centre, however, because of its location, the emphasis is on a holiday package or relaxing break, rather than a business trip. In-room facilities include voice-mail, safe, mini-bar and movie channels. The cost of a room includes breakfast, dinner and late check-out (1800), plus free laundry, local calls and non-motorised water sports.
The Fullerton Singapore
Although The Fullerton hotel is fairly new (it opened at the end of 2000), it is situated in one of Singapore’s oldest, largest and grandest buildings and is already making quite an impression. Built in 1928, the Doric columns of Palladian architecture place it in a unique triumvirate of colonial buildings, including the Supreme Court and City Hall. It is based on the site of Fort Fullerton, which was built in 1829 at the mouth of Singapore River to defend the town. The building is now home to 400 hotel rooms and offers Internet access, spa, reading room and bathrooms designed by Philippe Starck. It is situated in the business district.
Some of the best courses are at the Raffles Country Club (which has two 18-hole courses); the SFRA Resort & Country Club (three 9-hole courses); the Sentosa Golf & Country Club (two 18-hole championship courses); and the Tanal Merah Country Club (two 18-hole championship courses). Operating hours are generally 0700-1900 (with some clubs offering night golfing until 2300). In most clubs, non-members are allowed to play for a special fee ranging from S$50-200. Weekends, however, are often strictly reserved for members. Many clubs also require visitors to hold a handicap or proficiency certificate from a recognised club.
Watersports in Singapore
One of the most popular watersports is canoeing round the island and there are a number of operators hiring out canoes at Changi point, East Coast and Sentosa Island. There are also numerous scuba diving schools offering PADI or NAUI recognised courses. Day and night diving in local waters and nearby Malaysia are also available. Sailing and windsurfing is generally popular on the eastern coast, where most facilities are located. For water-skiing, the best locations are Sembawang and Kallang River (a venue for previous world championships). Fishing is a year-round sport. Boats and equipment, inexpensive to hire, are available at the Jardine Steps, Changi Park. Singapore offers easy access to numerous offshore islands (see Resorts & Excursions section) and Singaporeans drive over to Malaysia to enjoy the watersports off the East coast (see the Malaysia section).
Cycling in Singapore
The cycle paths link many parts of the island and bikes can be rented in many public parks, notably those at East Coast Park, Sentosa, Pasir Ris and Bishan. Mountain or dirt-biking is particularly popular in Pulau Ubin.
Horseracing in Singapore
The Singapore Turf Club is responsible for all horseracing meetings. Visitors must observe a strict dress code. Races take place at weekends only; the first race is at 1330, the last race at 1800. Polo matches are played regularly at the Singapore Polo Club.
Other
Many sports associations and clubs welcome visitors. Badminton is almost a national sport played all year round. Cricket is also played in Singapore, the Singapore Cricket Club being one of the oldest sporting associations in the world. It has a sports ground where cricket, soccer, tennis, hockey and rugby are played. Ten-pin bowling is also very popular with over 20 centres (each offering more than 20 lanes) catering for the enthusiast. In the Marina South area, some bowling centres are open 24 hours; otherwise, they are generally open 0900-0200.