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FOOD & DINING IN PERU / PERU DINING GUIDE (LIMA)

Peru Info — Thu Nov 30, 2006 5:47 am

Author: Peru Info

Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 5:47 am

FOOD & DINING IN PERU (LIMA)

As one might expect, Lima presents the most cosmopolitan dining city in all of Peru, with restaurants of all budgets and a wide range of cuisines -- from upscale seafood restaurants and comida criolla (coastal Peruvian cooking), to Chinese and plenty of Italian, French, and other international restaurants. Sometimes entire streets and neighbourhoods specialize in a single type of food. In Lima Centro, you can visit the chifas of Chinatown, and in Miraflores, a pedestrian street off Parque Central (Boulevard San Remo) is referred to as "Little Italy" for its scores of look-alike pizzerias and Italian restaurants. Don't mind the restaurant menu hawkers; it's touristy but also lively and fun.

Restaurants are, predictably, most crowded in the early evening, especially Thursday through Saturday. In the business districts of Miraflores and San Isidro, lunch can also get quite busy -- at least in the nicer restaurants that are popular with local and international businessmen.

Fixed-price lunch deals are referred to as menús del día (or simply menú). The majority of restaurants include taxes and services in their prices, and your bill will reflect the menu prices. Others (including some upscale restaurants), however, separate taxes and services, and the bill can get pretty byzantine, especially when it comes to imported wine. You might see a subtotal, followed by a 10% service charge, a 20% "selectivo" wine tax, and an 18% IGV (general sales tax). It's crazy. Fortunately, the restaurants that do this are rare.

Cevicherías

You can't really go to Peru -- especially Lima -- without sitting down for an irresistibly fresh plate of ceviche, the tantalizing plate of raw fish and shellfish that's marinated in lime or lemon juice and chile peppers, and served with toasted corn, sweet potato, and raw onion. The citrus juices "cook" the fish, so it's not really raw the way sushi is. Plenty of restaurants of all stripes -- from lowly neighbourhood joints to snooty fine-dining spots popular with government bureaucrats and visiting businessmen -- offer ceviche, but you really have to go to an authentic cevichería for the true experience. In addition to Segundo Muelle and Canta Rana, others worth checking out are Punta Sal, Malecón Cisneros, block 3, at the corner of Trípoli in Miraflores (tel. 01/242-452), a small chain of informal cevicherías pretty similar to Segundo Muelle; and El-Kapallaq, 4844 Av. Petit Thouars, Miraflores (tel. 01/444-4149), an upscale seafood and ceviche restaurant that, in the opinion of some locals, has no equal in the city. Peruvians view ceviche as a daytime dish, and most cevicherías aren't open for dinner; for the full experience, go at lunchtime and order a classic pisco sour to start, followed by chicha morada (or, if you're feeling kinky, a bottle of curiously neon-yellow Inka Cola).

Peruvian Chifas

Chinatown (Barrio Chino), southeast of the Plaza de Armas and next to the Mercado Central (beyond the Chinese arch on Jr. Ucayali), is a good place to sample the Peruvian take on Chinese food. These chifas, inexpensive restaurants with similar menus, are everywhere in the small but dense neighbourhood. Among those worth visiting (generally open daily 9am-10pm or later) are Wa Lok, Jr. Paruro 864 (tel. 01/427-2750), probably the best known in the neighbourhood; Salón Capon, Jr. Paruro 864 (tel. 01/426-9286), known for its dim sum; and Salón China, Jr. Ucayali 727 (tel. 01/428-8350), which serves a good lunch buffet for US$9.

Family-Friendly Restaurants

Besides the restaurants listed below, families might head to "Little Italy," the restaurant row of pizzerias and pasta joints along a short pedestrian-only block leading off the Parque Kennedy (Parque Central) in Miraflores. There are a dozen places to choose from, most very popular with local families.

Antica Trattoria: Just a couple blocks from Barranco's Municipal Park, where families hang out, this elegantly rustic Italian restaurant specializes in gourmet pizzas from wood-fired ovens. Adventurous palates will be tempted by unusual combinations, while kiddies who can't stand eggplant on their pie can have good old cheese pizza or spaghetti. The restaurant is divided up into several small dining rooms, perfect for families worried about an outburst from an overly tired kid.

Café Suisse (La Tiendecita Blanca): A longtime favourite old-style cafe from the 1930s, "the little white store" has great lunch options, including sandwiches, quiches, and a good-value menú de la casa for US$10, and full breakfasts. The kids will be as tempted by the impressive lineup of homemade pastries, cakes, and breads as their parents will be. Waitresses are decked out in cute folkloric red-and-white dresses.

La Trattoria di Mambrino: A very friendly Italian restaurant with some of the best pizzas in town, La Trattoria offers plenty of more sophisticated dishes for stressed-out parents who can't look at another slice of pizza. It's very popular with young Limeño families. The excellent home-baked rustic bread will tide over young ones who've been forced to eat later than they're accustomed to.

Manos Morenas: Older kids who can stay up late should enjoy not only the authentic Peruvian cooking at this handsome 1900s house in a quiet part of Barranco, but also the nightly shows of costumed music and dance shows that are the restaurant's calling card. (Shows begin at 9pm Tues-Thurs, 10:30pm Fri-Sat.) It's the best option for families who want to drop in on a peña (live criollo music show) in Lima -- others are much more of the nightclub variety -- but the cover is a little stiff.

SHOPPING IN PERU / PERU SHOPPING GUIDE (LIMA)

Peru Info — Thu Nov 30, 2006 5:39 am

Author: Peru Info

Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 5:39 am

SHOPPING IN PERU (LIMA)

The capital has the greatest variety of shopping in Peru, from tiny boutiques to artisan and antiques shops. Shopping at markets in sierra villages and buying direct from artisans on Lake Titicaca are better experiences, certainly, but don't discount the fact that, unless you ship the loot home, you'll most likely have to bring it back to Lima anyway. In Lima, you can find traditional handicrafts from across Peru; prices are not usually much higher, and the selection might be even better than in the regions where the items are made. One exception is alpaca goods, which are better purchased in the areas around Cusco, Puno, and Arequipa, in terms of both price and selection.

Miraflores is where most shoppers congregate, although there are also several outlets in Lima Centro and elsewhere in the city. Most shops are open from 9:30am to 12:30pm and 3 to 8pm. Most prices include an 18% sales tax, which, unfortunately, is refundable only on purchases made at the international departure lounge of Jorge Chávez International Airport.

Antiques & Jewelry

Look for silver jewelry and antiques along Avenida La Paz in Miraflores. Platerías and joyerías (silver and jewelry shops) worth a visit are Ilaria, Av. Dos de Mayo 308 San Isidro(tel. 01/221-8575), and El Tupo, La Paz 553 (tel. 01/444-1511). In downtown Lima, a new shop, Joyería Gold/Gems Perú, Pasaje Santa Rosa 119 (tel. 01/426-7267), stocks Colombian emeralds and fashionable, inexpensive Italian steel jewelry. Miraflores antiques shops include El Almacén de Arte, Francia 339 (tel. 01/445-6264), and Porta 735, Porta 735 (tel. 01/447-6158).

Handicrafts & Textiles

Miraflores houses the lion's share of Lima's well-stocked shops, which overflow with handicrafts from around Peru, including weavings, ceramics, and silver. Several dozen large souvenir and handicrafts shops are clustered on and around Avenida Ricardo Palma (a good one is Artesanías Miraflores, no. 205) and Avenida Petit Thouars (try Artesanía Expo Inti, no. 5495). Handicrafts shops elsewhere in Miraflores include Agua y Tierra, Diez Canseco 298 (tel. 01/445-6980), and Silvania Prints, Diez Canseco 378 (tel. 01/242-0667). Alpaca sweaters and other items can be had at Alpaca 111, Av. Larco 671 (tel. 01/447-1623); Alpaca Peru, Diez Canseco 315 (tel. 01/241-4175); Mon Repos, Tarata 288 (tel. 01/445-9740); and All Alpaca, Av. Schell 375 (tel. 01/427-4704). One of the largest shops, which stocks a huge range of Peruvian handicrafts from all over the country, is Peru Artcrafts, in the Larcomar shopping mall, Malecón de la Reserva 610 (tel. 01/446-5429). Although it's considerably more expensive than other shops (all prices are in dollars), it's perhaps the best for last-minute and one-stop shopping.

Another great spot for handicrafts from around Peru in Lima Centro is the Santo Domingo artesanía arcades across the street from the Santo Domingo convent on Conde de Superunda and Camaná. In Miraflores, a giant artesanía market with dozens of stalls is the Mercado Indio, 5245 Av. Petit Thouars (at General Vidal). In fact, almost all of Av. Petit Thouars, from Ricardo Palma to Vidal, is lined with well-stocked handicrafts shops. For fine retablos and artisanship typical of Ayacucho (which produces some of Peru's most notable pieces), visit the Museo-Galería Popular de Ayacucho, Av. Pedro de Osma 116, Barranco (tel. 01/247-0599).

Markets & Malls

Lima Centro's crowded Mercado Central (Central Market) is south of the Plaza Mayor, at the edge of Chinatown; you'll find just about everything there, but you should take your wits and leave your valuables at home. The Feria Artesanal (Artisans' Market, also called the Mercado Indio, or Indian Market, but not to be confused with the Mercado Indio in Miraflores) has a wide variety of handicrafts of varying quality, but at lower prices than most tourist-oriented shops in Lima Centro or Miraflores (quality might also be a bit lower than at those shops). Haggling is a good idea. The market is located at Avenida de la Marina (blocks 6-10) in Pueblo Libre; it's open daily from noon to 8pm.

There are small handicrafts markets, open late to catch bar and post-dinner crowds, in the main squares in both Miraflores and Barranco. The Jockey Plaza Shopping Center is a modern American-style shopping mall -- the newest, biggest, and best in Lima -- with department stores, restaurants, movie theatres, a supermarket, and some 200 exclusive shops. It's located next to the Jockey Club of Peru at Hipódromo de Monterrico, at the intersection of Javier Prado and Avenida Panamericana Sur in Surco. It's open daily from 11am to 9pm. Centro Comercial Larcomar, in Miraflores along the malecón and Parque Salazar (near the Marriott hotel), is one of the swankest malls in Lima, with a slew of restaurants, movie theatres, and upscale shops overlooking the ocean.

NIGHTLIFE IN PERU / PERU NIGHTLIFE GUIDE (LIMA)

Peru Info — Thu Nov 30, 2006 5:31 am

Author: Peru Info

Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 5:31 am

NIGHTLIFE IN PERU (LIMA)

Lima’s nightlife is buzzing. Bars and clubs are full of young Peruvians and ‘gringos’ gyrating to anything from salsa to Argentine rock. The evening doesn’t really get going until late and Limeños tend to dress up to go out. The heart of the city’s nightlife is focused in Miraflores, San Isidro and Barranco. The live music bars and clubs around the Parque Kennedy and flashy discos (Señor Frogs and Teatriz) in the Larco Mar shopping mall, dominate Miraflores nightlife. San Isidro offers a more sophisticated scene
for the more mature. The perennial hot spot is Barranco, which bursts into life on Thursday night and carries on until the early hours of Monday morning. Here a bar can fall out of favor within weeks, so it is always best to ask locals for guidance.

The smartest places have a dress code and nightclubs charge between PEN18/US$5 and PEN36/US$10 entrance. There are no strict licensing laws in Peru, which means that children are allowed into most bars and cafés, although one must be over 18 years to drink. A beer usually costs around PEN4-5, while a cocktail costs PEN10-15. Licensing hours are flexible and the most popular bars are open throughout the night or for as long as there are customers to serve.

Bars

For a taste of an old-fashioned Miraflores bar, head to Haiti, Avenida Diagonal 160, which, with its large terrace and smoked glass, invokes memories of the Parisian boulevards. It is a good place to enjoy a pisco sour, before heading to the nearby cinema. La Bodega de La Tratoria, Calle General Borgoso 784, Miraflores, is a perfect site for elegant tapas-type snacks and a beer, all within sight of an ancient Peruvian burial site, La Huaca. For a relaxing Irish-style pub that is not a ghetto for homesick ex-pats, it’s hard to top O’Murphy’s, Calle Schell 627, Miraflores, which serves draught beer, hosts live music and has been expanded to include a dancefloor. An honest, spit-and-sawdust Barranco bar is Juanito’s, Avenida Grau 274, serving beer in pitchers and delicious cured ham sandwiches with onions and chilli. The odd, often-inebriated wandering minstrel supplies the music. La Noche, Avenida Bolognesi 307, Barranco, just off the main square, is one of the most popular spots. Barranco is also home to several small, ‘hole-in-the-wall’ bars, which, because of their cheap prices, are favoured by students and die-hard drinkers, who swig back the beer or spirits until they can hardly stand.

Casinos

There are several casinos and slot-machine halls in Lima. One of the most accessible and enjoyable is probably Casino La Hacienda, Avenida 28 de Julio 511, Miraflores, which is part of the luxury hotel of the same name. The rooms are comfortable, the waiter service attentive and there is plenty of parking space. Casino La Hacienda does not operate a dress code, although this tends to be formal. The minimum age is 18, although a passport is not required. The casino is open 1800-0600.

Clubs

Bar Kitsch, Avenida Bolognesi 743, Barranco, is for disco lovers, who come to revel in the flowery wallpaper, the impromptu bar dancing and excellent cocktails. It gets busy on Friday and Saturday. Much larger and trendier is La Noche, Avenida Bolognesi 307, which has two bars, dozens of tables on two floors and a stage for live music – for which there is a small entry fee. The owners have just opened a second bar in central Lima, in the third block of Jiron Quilca. In Miraflores, Santa Sede, block six of Avenida 28 de Julio, is the regular haunt of the young and bohemian. It plays a pleasing mix of pop and salsa. Before leaving Lima, the visitor should sample at least one salsodromo, a salsa dance club, such as Kimbara, Avenida Republica de Panama 1401, La Victoria, for a true taste of South American smoldering style.

Live music

Lima rocks at the weekend, although there is usually something going on during the week too. A cool, mellow jazz evening on Monday and Saturday nights can be had at Jazz Zone, Avenida La Paz 656, Miraflores, which lays on a variety of bands from blues to experimental jazz. La Casona de Barranco, Avenida Grau 329, Barranco, also offers good live jazz sessions on Monday nights and at the weekend.

Peñas

You should check out at least one peña, a criollo music club that quite often inspires rousing vocal and dance participation, during your stay in Lima. Cover charges range from US$1 to US$10, depending on the act.

Miraflores
Caballero de Fina Estampa, Av. del Ejército 800 (tel. 01/441-0552), named for one of the most famous Peruvian songs of all time, is one of the chicest peñas, with a large colonial salon and balconies. The cover charge is a little hefty for Lima: US$13. Sachún, Av. del Ejército 657 (tel. 01/441-4465), is favored by tourists and middle-class Limeños who aren't shy about participating with their feet and vocal chords. The cover charge ranges from US$7- US$13.

Barranco
De Rompe y Raja, Manuel Segura 127 (tel. 01/247-3271), is a favorite of locals. Look for the popular Matices Negros, an Afro-Peruvian dance trio. The cover is usually around S/25 ($7). Las Guitarras, Manuel Segura 295 (tel. 01/479-1874), is where locals go to play an active part in their peña. A cool spot, it's open Friday and Saturday only, with no cover charge and no credit cards accepted. The excellent restaurant Manos Morenas, Pedro de Osma 409 (tel. 01/467-0421), is a sophisticated peña with a US$12 cover charge. Shows are given Tuesday through Thursday from 9pm onward, and Friday and Saturday from 10:30pm until 2am or so. La Candelaria, Bolognesi 292 (tel. 01/247-1314), is a new, comfortable club celebrating Peruvian folklore. It's open Friday and Saturday from 9pm onward; the cover is US$7.

For a unique experience, check out the totally informal and impromptu shows at Songoro Cosongo, Ayacucho 281 at the edge of Puente de Suspiros (tel. 01/247-4730). The owner gets together with local and invited musicians and jams at this airy old house with a distinctly Cuban feel; you'll hear Peruvian classics, Afro-Peruvian numbers and Cuban son, depending on their mood. The home-cooked food is inexpensive and delicious. Del Carajo, Av. Jorge Chávez 403 (tel. 01/247-7023), on the road to Las Palmas, is another top peña with good live music, percussion, and dance shows Tuesday through Saturday starting at 10pm.

Lima Centro
Brisas del Titicaca, Jr. Walkulski 168, the first block of Avenida Brasil (tel. 01/332-1901), is a cultural institution with "noches folklóricas" and some of the best shows in Lima. It's open Wednesday and Thursday from 8pm, and Friday and Saturday from 10pm.