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 Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 3:25 am Post subject: FOOD & DINING IN UK (SCOTLAND) |
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FOOD & DINING IN UK (SCOTLAND)
From Angus Beef to Haggis
For many years, restaurants in Scotland were known mainly for their modest prices, watery overcooked vegetables, and boiled meats. But you need no longer expect a diet of oats, fried fish, and greasy chips -- in the past 20 or so years, there has been a significant improvement in Scottish cookery. There was a time when the Scot going out for dinner would head for the nearest hotel, but independent restaurants are now opening everywhere, often by newly arrived immigrants, along with bistros and wine bars.
More and more restaurants are offering "Taste of Scotland" menus, a culinary program initiated by the Scottish Tourist Board. Scotland's culinary strength is in its fresh raw ingredients, ranging from seafood, beef, and game to vegetables and native fruits.
One of Scotland's best-known exports is pedigree Aberdeen Angus beef. In fact, ye olde roast beef of England often came from Scotland. Scottish lamb is known for its tender, tasty meat. A true connoisseur can taste the difference in lamb by its grazing grounds, ranging from the coarse pastureland and seaweed of the Shetlands to the heather-clad hills of the mainland.
Game plays an important role in the Scottish diet, ranging from woodcock, red deer, and grouse to the rabbit and hare in the crofter's kitchen. And fish in this land of seas, rivers, and lochs is a mainstay, from salmon to the pink-fleshed brown trout to the modest herring that's transformed into the elegant kipper (the best are the Loch Fyne kippers). Scottish smoked salmon is, of course, a delicacy known worldwide.
The good news is that the word "eclectic" now describes many restaurants in Scotland. To cite only an example or two, fresh salads are often given a Thai kick with lime leaves and chile, and stir-fries and chargrill are standard features. Scots today eat better than ever before. Robert Burns would be shocked at some of the new taste sensations creative chefs are devising. But he would be happy to learn that alcohol -- especially whisky -- is still a favored ingredient in many dishes and sauces.
Of course, it takes a wise chef to leave well enough alone, and many Scottish cooks know the simplest dishes have never lost their appeal, especially if that means Lismore oysters or Loch Etive mussels. The Scots have always been good bakers, and many small tearooms still bake their own scones and buttery shortbread. Heather honey is justly celebrated, and jams make use of Scotland's abundant harvest of soft fruit. Scottish raspberries, for example, are said to be among the finest in the world.
You'll definitely want to try some of Scotland's excellent cheeses. The mild or mature cheddars are the best known. A famous hard cheese, Dunlop, comes from the Orkney Islands as well as Arran and Islay. One of the most-acclaimed cheeses from the Highlands is Caboc, creamy and rich, formed into cork shapes and rolled in pinhead oatmeal. Many varieties of cottage cheese are flavoured with herbs, chives, or garlic.
And, yes, haggis is still Scotland's national dish -- it's perhaps more symbolic than gustatory. One wit described it as a "castrated bagpipe." Regardless of what you might be told facetiously, haggis isn't a bird. Therefore, you should turn down invitations (usually offered in pubs) to go on a midnight haggis hunt. Cooked in a sheep's paunch (nowadays more likely a plastic bag), it's made with bits and pieces of the lung, liver, and heart of sheep mixed with suet and spices, along with onions and oatmeal. Haggis is often accompanied by single-malt whisky -- then again, what isn't?
Single Malt or Blend?
"It's the only liquor fit for a gentleman to drink in the morning if he can have the good fortune to come by it . . . or after dinner either." Thus wrote Sir Walter Scott of the drink of his country -- Scotch whisky. Of course, if you're here or almost anywhere in Britain or Europe, you don't have to identify it as Scotch whisky when you order. That's what you'll get. In fact, in some parts of Scotland, England, and Wales, they look at you oddly if you order Scotch as you would in the States.
The difference in the Scotch whiskies you may have become accustomed to seeing in bars or liquor stores at home is whether they're blends or single-malt whiskies. Many connoisseurs prefer single malts, whose tastes depend on their points of origin: Highlands, Lowlands, Islay, or Campbeltown on Kintyre. These are usually seen as sipping whiskies, not to be mixed with water (well, maybe soda) and not to be served with ice. Many have come to be used as after-dinner drinks, served in a snifter like cognac.
Blended Scotches came into being both because the single malts were for a long time too harsh for delicate palates and because they were expensive and time-consuming to produce. A shortcut was developed: The clear and almost tasteless alcohol produced in the traditional way could be mixed with such ingredients as American corn, Finnish barley, Glasgow city tap water, and caramel coloring with a certain percentage of malt whiskies that flavoured the entire bottle. Whichever you prefer, both the single malts and the blends must be made within the borders of Scotland and then aged for at least 3 years before they can legally be called Scotch whisky.
The making of Scottish beer -- the ales drunk by the common folk in earlier days -- almost died out when palates became more adapted to Scotch whisky and when a malt tax was levied in the 18th century, followed in the 19th century by beer duty. The brewing industry has made a comeback in the last quarter of a century, and Scottish beer, or Scotch ale, is being produced. Real ale is beer made from malted barley, hop flowers, yeast, and water, with a fining process (use of an extract from the swim bladders of certain fish) to complete the brewing. Ales are fermented in casks in a series of steps. Scottish ale, either dark or light, is malty and full of flavour.
PLACES TO DINE IN EDINBURGH
The Atrium
Situated in the same building as the Traverse Theatre, The Atrium offers sophisticated, contemporary and distinctive Scottish cuisine with a French flavour, such as honey roasted quail with Stornoway black pudding or Aberdeen Angus beef topped with pig’s trotter in a red wine jus. One of the city’s most acclaimed restaurants, it has flickering candelabras, cream-coloured seats and an intimate atmosphere. The short lunch menu is good value at £13.50 for two courses or £17.50 for three.
10 Cambridge Street
Tel: (0131) 228 8882. Fax: (0131) 228 8808.
E-mail: eat@atriumrestaurant.co.uk
Website: www.atriumrestaurant.co.uk
Le Café St Honoré
There is a really romantic feel to this cosy French restaurant tucked away down a central side street, making it often quite hard to find. With crisp linen cloths, heavy mirrors and black and white marble floors, it is almost like being in Paris itself. Food is traditional French and the ‘après-cinq’ fixed menu, which is served between 1700 and 1845, is good value. Dishes include venison wild berries and mushrooms or boeuf bourguignon with mash.
34 North West Thistle Street Lane
Tel: (0131) 226 2211. Fax: (0131) 477 2716.
Restaurant Martin Wishart
This acclaimed Leith restaurant well deserves its Michelin star, awarded in 2001. The decor is simple and cool with plain, cream walls, although the real star here is the food. Popular with business diners and local celebrities, the restaurant serves mouth-watering epicurean creations such as turbot and langoustine with truffle butter with a firm nod across the sea to France. A three-course lunch costs £20.50 while the best option for dinner is to sample Wishart’s sparklingly creative and critic impressing tasting menus. A real taste extravaganza costs £55 for five courses or £60 for six. Add in a glass of wine to go with each course and two diners are looking at over £200 for a full tasting dinner.
54 The Shore, Leith
Tel: (0131) 553 3557. Fax: (0131) 467 7091.
E-mail: info@martin-wishart.co.uk
Website: www.martin-wishart.co.uk
The Witchery by the Castle
This atmospheric restaurant, situated in a medieval building next to the Castle, is the place to come for a special occasion. The dark opulence and magical charm delights the eye, with heavy furnishings, fanlight windows, textures and plush patterns. Guests can dine by candlelight in this gothic space or follow the candles down the old stone stairs to the atrium section, which is much more open but still romantic and cosy. The modern Scottish cooking on show uses fresh ingredients like Aberdeen Angus beef to conjure up a steak tartare, as well as fresh seafood to put together a crustacean seafood platter that comes with a half lobster. The pre and post theater menus are perhaps the best fine dining bargain in the city at two courses for £12.50, though many diners do end up tempted by the desserts after the quality of the starters and mains. They also have lavish suites upstairs for those looking to stay longer.
Castlehill, Royal Mile
Tel: (0131) 225 5613. Fax: (0131) 220 4392.
E-mail: mail@thewitchery.com
Website: www.thewitchery.com
Tower Restaurant
With wonderful views over the city and an open-air terrace for rare sunny days, the Tower is the sort of restaurant that people want to stay in all afternoon. Situated on top of the Museum of Scotland, the restaurant offers contemporary Scottish cuisine in a strikingly modern and stylishly opulent interior, with furnishings incorporating aluminum, velvet, tweed, oak and leather. Oysters are a specialty, while on the main menu sturdy dishes like rolled suckling pig sit alongside lighter touches like sea bream in olive tapenade. A two-course theater supper, which costs £12.50, is available between 1700 and 1830.
Museum of Scotland, Chambers Street
Tel: (0131) 225 3003. Fax: (0131) 247 4220.
E-mail: mail@tower-restaurant.com
Website: www.tower-restaurant.com
The Apartment
Close to the King’s Theatre, this crisp, clean restaurant is still one of the trendiest places to eat in the city despite being open for a few years now. Decor is Ikea inspired and the staff are young, although they are not as organized as they could be. The food is excellent, however, with choices such as North African spicy lamb balls or roasted monkfish. Guests should book well in advance if they want a chance of eating here. There is also now a sister restaurant, The Outsider, 15-16 George IV Bridge (tel: (0131) 226 3131).
7-13 Barclay Place
Tel: (0131) 228 6456. Fax: (0131) 228 4456.
Blue
As the name suggests, the dominant color in this trendy bar and bistro is a cool blue. Situated above the Traverse Theatre, it attracts a wide range of people, drawn by a menu that offers light dishes such as goat’s cheese tart, as well as a vegetarian choice and meaty main courses such as ribeye steak with mushrooms or salmon with chorizo.
10 Cambridge Street
Tel: (0131) 221 1222. Fax: (0131) 228 8808.
E-mail: eat@bluebarcafe.com
Website: www.bluebarcafe.com
Centotre
On opening in 2004, Centotre instantly became the best place to eat in George Street and indeed one of the best places to eat in the city. The reasons are simple with fresh authentic ingredients flown in from Milan, an emphasis on no nonsense Italian cooking and a grand old Georgian building whose columns and sandstone make the perfect setting for a swish and stylish restaurant. Add in friendly waiting staff, a switched on restaurant manager and an open kitchen, and it is a pretty compelling mix. Highlights are the range of pasta dishes and simple, full flavour salads.
103 George Street
Tel: (0131) 225 1550. Fax: (0131) 225 2578.
E-mail: info@centotre.com
Website: www.centotre.com
Fishers
There is a nautical feel to this popular bistro in Leith. Seafood is a specialty and the menu might include dishes such as Dover sole with a raspberry and tarragon butter or baked Finnan haddock with a sun-dried tomato dressing. The restaurant only seats 40 so booking is advised. They have a sister restaurant in central Edinburgh, called Fishers in the City (tel: (0131) 225 5109).
1 The Shore, Leith
Tel: (0131) 554 5666.
E-mail: ask@fishersbistros.co.uk
Website: www.fishersbistros.co.uk
Harvey Nichols Forth Floor
The restaurant, bar and brasserie on the fourth floor of Edinburgh’s slick Harvey Nichols store, is one of the smartest places to eat in the city. The restaurant has a clean, minimalist interior and boasts great views over to the castle and across the Firth of Forth (hence the name). The menus feature fresh seasonal produce and the restaurant and brasserie are open even when the store is closed. Here diners can sample dishes such as seared Szechwan peppered tuna with wok-fried vegetables. In the restaurant, the favourites include assiette of Scottish beef and game. The venue is popular and booking is recommended.
11-13 South St Andrew Street
Tel: (0131) 524 8350. Fax: (0131) 524 8351.
E-mail: forthfloor.reservations@harveynichols.com
Website: www.harveynichols.com
Orocco Pier
This new restaurant/bar/hotel by the water’s edge in South Queensferry offers unbeatable views of both the Forth Bridge and the Forth Road Bridge. The old inn was totally refurbished in 2003 and now boasts sweeping windows, an outdoor terrace and plenty of stylish hard wood. Waiting staff are friendly and attentive and the menu covers everything from traditional Scottish through to Mexican. In summer 2005 a new outdoor terrace opened, really opening up those stunning views of the bridges and the Firth of Forth.
17 High Street, South Queensferry
Tel: (0131) 331 1298. Fax: (0131) 331 4731.
E-mail: info@oroccopier.co.uk
Website: www.oroccopier.co.uk
rick's
One of the most fashionable places in the city, rick’s offers everything from breakfast (served until noon), sandwiches and light lunches, to more substantial dinners. The menu is broad and includes everything from duck breast with Dauphinoise potatoes and pink peppercorn sauce to crispy salmon fillet with Asian fried rice and chilli jam. This sleek, retro bar/restaurant is also the place to come for James Bond-style pre-dinner cocktails. They have rooms too for those who have overindulged.
55A Frederick Street
Tel: (0131) 622 7800. Fax: (0131) 622 7801.
E-mail: info@ricksedinburgh.co.uk
Website: www.ricksedinburgh.co.uk
The Boat House
You could not be any closer to the water than at the Boat House, a great little seafood restaurant tucked on the water’s edge in the historic suburb of South Queensferry. The owner Paul Steward is as friendly and unpretentious as the rest of the staff, helping make all diners feel welcome as well as helping them explore a menu that features both domestic seafood and some more exotic options. Call ahead for a coveted window table.
19b High Street, South Queensferry
Tel/Fax: (0131) 331 5429.
Hadrian's
This light and bright brasserie is the Balmoral’s other restaurant option. It may not have a Michelin star like its famous sibling, but it does offer a variety of well chosen modern classics as well as Scottish favourite like haggis, neeps and tatties laced with whisky and cream sauce. For a relaxed business lunch or an informal evening meal, Hadrian’s hits the spot. The revamped NB’s Bar next door is now directly linked to Hadrian’s with a tempting cocktail list for pre-dinner drinks.
2 North Bridge
Tel: (0131) 557 5000. Fax: (0131) 557 3747.
E-mail: hadrians@thebalmoralhotel.com
Website: www.thebalmoralhotel.com
Number One
Dining at Number One is widely acknowledged to be a sumptuous experience, with excellent service in classic surroundings. The restaurant is actually part of The Balmoral hotel but is also popular with the locals partly because it now boasts a well-deserved Michelin star. Main courses range from sea bream with ratte potatoes and asparagus through to assiette of Peelham Farm Tamworth pig, morel and pea risotto with truffle jus. For those who like to taste a bit of everything, there is a chef’s tasting menu, featuring six small courses picked from the main menu at £60 or £90 with accompanying wines for each course. Desserts are indulgent and delicious.
2 North Bridge
Tel: (0131) 557 6727. Fax: (0131) 557 3747.
Website: www.thebalmoralhotel.com
E-mail: numberone@thebalmoralhotel.com
The Shore Bar and Restaurant
There is a relaxed feeling to eating at The Shore, because the restaurant, with its plain wooden floors and paper tablecloths, is right next to the bar. Located in the heart of Leith’s trendy dockside area, it is popular with locals and visitors alike. Modern European food is usually on the menu, which includes dishes like spicy grilled sardines or sautéed scallops with cabbage mash and basil and almond pesto. Fish is a house specialty and the menu changes daily.
3-4 The Shore, Leith
Tel/Fax: (0131) 553 5080.
PLACES TO DINE IN GLASGOW
Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or
Brian Maule was head chef at Le Gavroche for many years and has now brought his French influenced fine food to Glasgow. This city centre restaurant has a strong reputation and is very popular with businessmen enjoying the set price lunch menus. Main courses are focused around meats such as duck, lamb and sirloin steak, while desserts might include favourites such as crème brulée.
176 West Regent Street
Tel: (0141) 248 3801.
Website: www.lechardondor.com
étain
This sophisticated fine dining space is Terence Conran’s only UK restaurant outside London. It’s in the heart of the city’s shopping district and decorated in cool shades, with crisp white linen. Dishes have a French influence and may feature sea bream, monkfish or Scottish beef. There is always a vegetarian choice. The set lunches make it an affordable daytime option, while the six course epicurean menu offers a gourmet experience.
2nd floor, Princes Square
Tel: (0141) 225 5630.
Website: www.conran-restaurants.co.uk
City Merchant
Situated in the smart Merchant City, where the ‘Tobacco Lords’ once had their warehouses, this busy restaurant has a relaxed ‘pubby’ feel with stained glass windows and a wooden bar. The special daytime menu offers good value and is popular with lunching businessmen. The menu includes plenty of steaks and Scottish meats, while seafood is similarly well represented, with choices ranging from fishcakes to mussels.
97-99 Candelriggs, Merchant City
Tel: (0141) 553 1577.
Website: www.citymerchant.co.uk
Stravaigin
The name means ‘roaming’ and this Glasgow stalwart in the West End takes good Scottish ingredients, then serves them in surprising and imaginative ways, taking inspiration from around the world. Venison, for example, might be served with wild mushrooms and a raspberry gravy. There is an extensive wine list, with many pudding wines on offer, and a café-bar upstairs for those who want to eat in more casual surroundings.
28 Gibson Street, Kelvinside
Tel: (0141) 334 2665.
Website: www.stravaigin.com
The Living Room
This trendy bar/restaurant opened in 2004 and its central location makes it very popular with local business people. There’s a sophisticated atmosphere with secluded brown leather booths and soft lights. The menu is varied and includes quick lunch options like club sandwiches, wraps and salads. Main courses vary from pasta dishes to Asian inspired dishes such as crispy duck. There are plenty of vegetarian options.
150 St Vincent Street
Tel: (0870) 220 3028.
Website: www.thelivingroom.co.uk
Price: $$
Room Restaurant
In the stylish surroundings of One Devonshire Gardens, Room has plastic chairs, moody lights and makes food fun. It serves retro dishes with a distinctly contemporary twist, so a Scotch egg is an elegant tower of black pudding with a quail’s egg on top, and chilli con carne is made with rib eye steak. There are several vegetarian choices, and also a canapé menu.
One Devonshire Gardens
Tel: (0141) 341 0000.
Website: www.roomrestaurants.com
Salty Dog
Perched above the shoppers in stylish Princes Square, this popular meeting place is part restaurant, part cocktail bar. As well as the extensive drinks menu, which includes plenty of champagne cocktails, there are good value light lunches such as salmon sandwiches, smoked haddock chowder and sausage baguettes. Char grilled meats and Aberdeen Angus beef also feature as substantial main courses, and there are several vegetarian choices.
Princes Square
Tel: (0141) 221 7800.
Website: www.princessquare.co.uk
Heart Buchanan
For fine fresh food, this little deli on the trendy Byres Road just can’t be beaten. They use the best local ingredients available, organic meat for instance, and all dishes are freshly cooked in the basement kitchen. Seating is limited and food only available at lunchtime, but it is worth seeking out for home-made soup, imaginative sandwiches and delicious cakes and tarts. A takeaway service is also available.
380 Byres Road
Tel: (0141) 334 7626.
Website: www.heartbuchanan.co.uk
Fratelli Sarti
Tuscany comes to Glasgow in this established café/restaurant that’s run by the Italian Sarti brothers. The décor is warm and cluttered with bright check tablecloths and the atmosphere is relaxed. The menu features plenty of pizzas and pasta dishes, as well as some traditional family and regional specials such as hearty Tuscan stews. Desserts include creamy tiramisu and the coffee is excellent.
121 Bath Street
Tel: (0141) 204 0440.
Rogano
Established in 1935, Rogano has a stunningly well preserved Art Deco interior, with intimate booths, crisp white cloths and sparkling silver cutlery. Their specialty is seafood and fish soup, lemon sole and lobster all feature on the menu, together with Scottish classics such as Aberdeen Angus beef. There is a special vegetarian menu, and a popular Oyster and Champagne bar. Café Rogano downstairs offers a more affordable dining option.
11 Exchange Place
Tel: (0141) 248 4055.
Website: www.rogano.co.uk |
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