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 Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 5:19 am Post subject: NIGHTLIFE IN SWITZERLAND |
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NIGHTLIFE IN SWITZERLAND
BERN
Most Bern residents get up early on weekday mornings, so they usually limit their evening entertainment to a drink or two at a historic cellar such as the Kornhauskeller or the Klötzlikeller. Nevertheless, the city offers several late-night clubs, with dancing and cabaret, for the nocturnally active international crowd. This Week in Bern, distributed free by the tourist office, keeps a current list of cultural events.
The Performing Arts
The Bern Symphony Orchestra, one of the finest orchestras in Switzerland, is conducted by the acclaimed Russian-born Dmitrij Kitajenko, whose services are supplemented by frequent guest conductors from around the world. Concerts by the orchestra are usually performed at the concert facilities in the Bern Casino, Herrengasse 25 (tel. 031/311-42-42). Except for a summer vacation usually lasting from July until mid-August, the box office is open Monday through Friday from 12:30 to 3pm.
Concerts with fewer musicians, especially chamber music, are often performed in any of four or five churches; in the auditorium at the Konservatorium für Musik, Kramgasse 36 (tel. 031/311-62-21); or in the concert and recording facilities of Radio Studio Bern, Schwarztorstrasse 21 (tel. 031/388-91-11).
Major opera and ballet performances are usually staged in what is generally acknowledged as Bern's most beautiful theatre, the century-old Stadttheater, Kornhausplatz 20 (tel. 031/329-51-11). Performances are usually in German, and to a lesser degree in French, but even if you don't understand those languages, you might want to attend a performance. Other plays and dance programs, including ballet and cabaret, are presented in the Theater am Käfigturm, Spitalgasse 4 (tel. 031/311-61-00). Contemporary German-language dramas, comedies, tragedies, and satires are featured in the Kleintheater, Kramgasse 6 (tel. 031/320-26-26).
The Gambling
Grand Casino Koursaal Bern, Kornhausstrasse 3 (tel. 031/339-55-55), is the only place in town to gamble. Indeed, it's a great spot for novices to learn because serious money rarely changes hands here. It's open daily from noon to 3:30am, and admission is free. Drinks cost CHF10 to CHF15. There are three restaurants and two bars, plus a dance hall that charges a CHF10 cover. It's open Friday and Saturday from 9pm to 3:30am, and on Sunday from 3 to 10pm.
ZURICH
The city's nightlife is becoming less conservative, but don't expect it to be too wild. Most of the nightspots in Zurich close down early, so you should begin early. Concerts, theatre, opera, and ballet all flourish here.
To learn what's on during your visit, pick up a copy of Zurich News, available free at the tourist office and distributed at the front desks of most hotels.
The Performing Arts
No special discount tickets are granted, but for regular tickets to operas, theatres, and concerts, go to Billettzentrale (BiZZ for short), Bahnhofstrasse 9 (tel. 044/221-22-83), open Monday to Friday from 10am to 6:30pm and on Saturday from 10am to 2pm.
The Zurich Opera is the most outstanding local company, performing at the Opernhaus. The Zurich Tonhalle Orchestra, performing at Tonhalle, also enjoys an international reputation.
GENEVA
Geneva has more nightlife than any other city in Switzerland. Most activity centres around place du Bourg-de-Four, a stagecoach stop during the 19th century. In the Old Town there are lots of outdoor cafes in the summer.
For a listing of nightlife and cultural activities, free copies of the bilingual monthly Genève Le Guide (www.le-guide.ch) are distributed at hotel desks and tourist information centres.
The Performing Arts
Geneva has always attracted the culturally sophisticated, including Byron, Jean-Baptiste, Corot, Victor Hugo, Balzac, George Sand, and Franz Liszt. Ernst Ansermet founded Geneva's great Orchestre de la Suisse Romande, whose frequent concerts entertain music lovers at Victoria Hall. For opera there's the 1,500-seat Grand Théâtre, which welcomes Béjart, the Bolshoi, and other ballet companies, in addition to having a company of its own.
For a preview of events at the time of your visit, pick up a copy of the monthly "List of Events" issued by the tourist office.
Bar Scene
Most bars in Geneva close at 1:30 or 2am.
The Gay & Lesbian Scene
Geneva's gay switchboard is Dialogai, 11-13, rue de la Navigation (tel. 022/906-40-40). It provides multilingual information and advice to anyone who calls. On the basement level are a library, a cafe and bar, and meeting rooms for Wednesday-night dinners and Sunday-morning brunches. The organization publishes a free list of the gay bars in Geneva and French-speaking Switzerland, and is the best access to the male homosexual network of Geneva. It schedules discussion groups for gay youths and gay seniors, and it also offers support groups for people who are HIV positive.
Le Kid, 99, bd. Carl-Vogt (tel. 022/320-44-96), is a popular gay-oriented cafe and restaurant specializing in vegetarian cuisine. In the university area, it is open all day. Le Pretexte, 9, rue du Prince (tel. 022/310-14-28), has a dance floor and two bars, plus a trio of areas with different themes, including Italian, Baroque, and Asian. It is the most visible gay disco in town. Big and highly visible within a commercial street on the lake's southern shore, it closes whimsically whenever there isn't enough biz, and -- other than every Friday and Saturday -- it has erratic hours.
LUZERN (LUCERNE)
The most sophisticated entertainment is found at Vegas, the lavishly redecorated new casino at the Grand Casino Luzern, Haldenstrasse 6 (tel. 041/418-56-56). You can try your luck at 140 slot machines. Poker, roulette, and black jack are also available. On the second floor, you can indulge in a few rounds of boule. Other options here include strip shows at the Red Rose Night Club/Cabaret, and folklore shows in Le Chalet, with traditional music, dances, and costumes, as well as yodeling, alphorn (a large horn) playing, and flag throwing.
On a more cultural note, if you speak German, you can enjoy performances at the Stadttheater, Theaterstrasse 2 (tel. 041/210-33-63). Directly on the lake on the rail station side of town, it's the home of Luzern's major theatre group. Operas in their original language are also staged here. The Allgemeine Musikgesellschaft Luzern is the local resident orchestra, presenting performances at the Kunsthaus, Frohburgstrasse 6, from October to June, or at the Kultur und Kongress Zentrum . For more information, call tel. 041/210-50-50.
In the late 1990s the city of Luzern inaugurated one of the most dramatically modern, large-scale buildings in central Switzerland, the Kultur und Kongress Zentrum (KKZ), Europaplatz 1 (tel. 041/226-77-77), as a glittering showcase to corporate conventions and the performing arts. Poised behind the railway station in starkly modern contrast to the spires and alpine architecture of the rest of Luzern, its controversial shape may remind newcomers of an enchanted "music box" that glitters with acres of glass and metal panels in shades of forest green, dark blue, and red. It was designed with a spectacular copper-sheathed roof by noted Parisian architect Jean Nouvele. Its auditoriums have some of the best acoustics in central Europe, thanks to rotating panels behind the stage. Expect heavy use of this site for classical, rock, and heavy-metal concerts. (For ticket information about the concerts that will be presented here, check out the posters in front of the building, or call the concert hall itself at tel. 0848/800-800 or 0900/552-225.) There's also a snack bar and cafe on the premises.
If you like Swiss folkloric presentations, head for the Stadtkeller, Sternenplatz (tel. 041/410-47-33), which has good food and presents a program of traditional Swiss entertainment, complete with alphorns, cowbells, national costumes, flag throwing, and yodeling. Presentations take place March to October daily from 8 to 10:30pm.
Other episodes of Swiss folklore can be experienced aboard the Night Boat Luzern, Seestrasse 106 (tel. 041/319-49-78), a cruiser that departs from Pier 6 in front of Lucerne's railway station. It operates every night, business permitting, between May and September, departing at 8:45pm and returning at 10:15pm. Advance reservations are required. In most cases, members of a folk musical group perform onboard, and there's also a restaurant serving Swiss alpine food. If you opt for the cruise with dinner, the combined cost is around 88F. The boat ride without dinner costs CHF55. There is also a happy hour cruise for CHF38.
The Altstadt (Old Town) always brims with pubs and cafes, of which Mr. Pickwick's Pub, Rathausquai 6 (tel. 041/410-59-27), is the most authentic looking and the most popular British pub in Luzern, with a sudsy, woodsy-looking decor that's awash with Brits, beer, and anyone else who simply wants to toss back a pint or two from a riverfront location near the northern end of the Old Town's covered bridge. It generally stays open nightly until 1am, which is very late by the standards of Luzern.
If you're tired of yodeling and want south-of-the-border spice, head for Cucaracha, Pilatusstrasse 15 (tel. 041/226-87-87), for a night of nachos, burritos, and Coronas. Many hotels have more subdued bars, especially the National, Haldenstrasse 4 (tel. 041/419-09-09), which has a glossy American-type bar, and the Palace Hotel, Haldenstrasse 10 (tel. 041/416-16-16), which has one American-style bar. The most ultracool place in Lucerne is The Lounge Bar of The Hotel, Sempacherstrasse 14 (tel. 041/226-86-86).
P-1 the Bar, on the top floor of the Hotel Monopol, Pilatusstrasse 1 (tel. 041/220-13-15), is a popular nightclub in Lucerne. It's crowded with the kinds of hip and available people you can talk to, and partly because it boasts one of the most dramatic physical settings of any nightclub in Switzerland. To reach it, you'll wait in line on the lobby level of the hotel, a Belle Epoque beauty that sits across the plaza from the railway station. An attendant will funnel clients, in elevator-size blocks, into a lift that will haul you to a point beneath the hotel's ornate copper-sheathed cupola. Here, recently released dance music, three bars, and a pair of outdoor terraces combine to create an instant party ambience that virtually everyone finds invigorating. By all means, climb to the club's highest point for open-air views of Luzern that are among the best in the city. Incidentally, this nightclub's name (P1) derives from a simplification of its address (Pilatusstrasse 1).
The Loft, Haldenstrase 2 (tel. 041/410-92-44), is a serious contender for the title of the most hip and with-it nightclub in a town that's loaded with worthy competition. Music is a sophisticated blend of whatever you might have expected in London or Los Angeles, and the crowd is young and beautiful. The decor includes at least two bar areas and a balcony that overlooks a high-tech dance floor ringed with free-standing candelabrum, whose candles seem to flicker in rhythm to the music. There is a cover charge of CHF10 to CHF15.
The terrace of the Penthouse Bar at the Hotel Astoria, Pilatusstrasse 29 (tel. 041/226-88-88), offers a panoramic view over the rooftops of the city and the dramatic mountainscape beyond. Large sofas are an invitation to linger. On weekends live DJs keep everybody in a party mood. Also at the same hotel is the Pravda Dance Club, one of the city's best venues for meeting other young people. Exotic drinks in a romantic Kasbah-like setting can be ordered at the Casablanca Bar at the Hotel Schiller, Pilatusstrasse 15 (tel. 041/226-87-87).
Heaven, Burgerstrasse 21 (tel. 041/210-41-43), is Lucerne's only gay bar, and as such, it attracts people (mostly men) from many of the hamlets of central Switzerland. Don't expect too much -- the venue can be glum, and overall you'll get a sense that most of the clients would rather be partying in say, Hamburg or Berlin. You might be happiest here if you define the place as a distinctive but low-energy local pub where most of the clients happen to be gay, German-speaking, and Swiss.
MONTREUX
The major action spins around the Casino de Montreux, 9, rue du Théâtre (tel. 021/962-83-83), but don't expect a casino where fortunes are made and lost, or even a particularly impressive architectural monument. The casino here has almost no architectural interest, set in a dull modern building in the heart of town near the lake. Despite that, it can provide some nightlife diversion in an otherwise rather dull town. About 200 slot machines shake, rattle, and roll, along with a handful of roulette tables. There is a small disco open nightly till 4am.
Harry's New York Bar, in Le Montreux Palace, 100, Grand-Rue (tel. 021/962-12-12), is the most convivial watering hole and the first Harry's to be established in Switzerland. There's a Harry's Bar in many European cities today, but this particular example -- managed by one of the grandest hotels of Montreux -- won't remind you of any of them. Once the home of an auto showroom, it underwent an elegant transformation with the installation of rich paneling and touches of brass and leather. The bartenders -- a well-trained crew hailing from almost everywhere -- mix cocktails the old-fashioned way (shaken, not stirred). Most clients come here to drink, but if you're hungry, they serve light but elegant meals.
Other hot spots after dark include Caesar's, 515, Grand-Rue (tel. 021/963-75-59), known for its lakeside terrace dances and occasional cabaret; and Pussycat Club, 100, Grand-Rue (tel. 021/963-34-44), a good place to go dancing. There's even a DJ and -- get this -- a sushi bar.
LUGANO
Lugano reigns as the centre of the Ticino's nightlife circuit, with options that attract local residents from quieter towns throughout the district. Two of the most obvious options involve visits to either of the two casinos described below.
Other Nightlife Offerings -- Other than gambling, you'll find a dense roster of bars and cafes, many of them lining the edges of the historic centre's most famous square, piazza Riforma. One of the most interesting is the Café Olimpia (tel. 091/922-74-88), an elegant stone building with hundreds of chairs set out in front and a focus on live music some evenings. A few steps away is the Café Tango (tel. 091/922-27-01), more like a bar than a traditional cafe, where an Argentine motif (and recorded music) often attracts clients from everywhere in Europe. If you ever wondered about South American expatriates and where they happened to live in Switzerland, head no farther than the Mango Club, piazza Dante 8 (tel. 091/922-94-38). Here, almost everybody will know how to salsa and merengue, probably better than you, and with a more convincing grasp of Español as it's spoken in Colombia and the Dominican Republic. Originally established in 1995 and now a fixture on the nightlife circuit of the Ticino, it's open every night beginning at 10pm, with many of the guests arriving after 12:30am. Cover, which includes the first drink, costs CHF12.
Titanic, via Cantonale, pambio-Noranco (tel. 091/985-60-10), attracts the young and hip to the largest dance club in the Ticino. The cover charge usually begins at CHF15 to CHF20. Go late. The club lies off the A2 exit for Lugano-Sud.
If strip-tease artistes are your thing, consider Dancing Cécil, riva Paradiso, in the nearby suburb of Lugarno-Paradiso (tel. 091/994-97-24), at the hotel Vittoria. It's open daily from 10pm.
BASEL
Regardless of which language you speak, you'll find lots of options for nightlife, whether you're looking for a sophisticated cocktail lounge or a funky alternative club. A worthwhile cluster of them are in the Stadtcasino, Barfüssenplatz (tel. 061/225-93-93), a venue that contains a stage (Musik Halle) for live musical acts, plus at least three other bars and restaurants. On Steinenberg 14, look for the American-inspired Papa Joe's (tel. 061/225-93-94), a restaurant containing vague references to Hemingway and a commodious bar area. A few steps away, at Steinenberg 7, directly opposite the whimsical fountain designed by mega-artist Jean Tinguely, is the Campari Bar (tel. 061/272-83-83), a youthful site for drinking, gossiping, or whatever.
An appealing and discreetly prosperous bar, The Old City Bar, is in the previously recommended Basel Hilton International, Aeschengraben 31 (tel. 061/271-66-22). Its decor evokes a prestigious men's club in London. Here, you'll get the distinct feeling that everything from billion-dollar bank transfers to romantic assignations have been discreetly and stylishly conducted. Several notches upscale, with older and more prestigious antecedents, is the Euler Bar, in the Hotel Euler, Centralbahnplatz 14 (tel. 061/275-80-00). Popular with the international business community, it contains a lavishly coffered ceiling, a live pianist, lots of leather upholstery, a noise level that rarely rises above a murmur, and stiff drinks. More raucous and earthy is the popular bar in the oldest hotel in Europe, the Drei Könige, Blumenrain 8 (tel. 061/260-50-50), which is smaller and more bohemian than the previously recommended bars.
Next door to the Hotel Drei Könige is Queens, Blumenrain 10 (tel. 061/271-00-50), a safe and well-recommended disco with an appealing cross section of youthful and middle-age partygoers, both gay and straight. Admission is free. The music is a mix of '60s, '70s, and '80s. Music lovers head for the city's most deeply entrenched bastion of electronic music, avant-garde jazz, and rock 'n' roll, the Café Atlantis, Klosterberg 13 (tel. 061/228-96-96). Favored by rock-star hopefuls and college students, it contains a labyrinth of bars and balconies, and views of the medieval cathedral from the second-floor windows. On Friday and Saturday nights, it becomes a disco. During the week it has occasional live music. Admission is free. The quintessential smoke-filled cafe is Zum Roten Engel, 15 Andreasplatz (tel. 061/261-2008), filled mainly with students and other young people.
Young Basel, enjoying their position at the "crossroads" of Europe, are constantly discovering and patronizing new bars and nightspots that keep them on the cutting edge, making Bern look absolutely provincial. Follow the sound of soul and funk echo to NT/Areal, 21-23 Erlenstrasse (tel. 061/683-83-22), a music spot that grows hotter as the night grows long.
You're always likely to strike up an interesting conversation when you drop in at any of Basel's gay bars, which tend to get going relatively late at night, around 11pm. Try Elle et Lui, Rebgasse 39 (tel. 061/692-54-79).
On a more cultural note, the Basel Stadttheater, Theaterstrasse 7 (tel. 061/295-11-33), presents an array of opera, operetta, dance concerts, and plays in German. The box office is open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 1pm and 3:30 to 5:30pm, and 1 hour before any performance. It is closed in July and August.
NEUCHATEL
As a university town, Neuchâtel is lively when the sun goes down. The hot spot is the Casino de la Rotonde, Faubourg du lac 14 (tel. 032/724-48-48), with a trio of dance clubs. The town has popularized the bar musicaux in this part of Switzerland, and many places now stay open until dawn, offering food and music. The best of these is Garbo, a bar and disco at 5-7, rue de Chavannes (tel. 032/724-31-81), where you can eat, drink, and dance the night away from 9pm to 6am Tuesday to Sunday. Its chief rival, keeping the same hours, is Dakota, 3, av. de la Gare (tel. 032/710-07-05). A young crowd mostly composed of students flocks nightly to the town's hottest pub, Le Shakespeare, 7, rue des Terreaux (tel. 032/725-85-88). On weekends this pub often imposes a 20F cover charge. |
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