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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 6:57 am    Post subject: FOOD & DINING IN SWEDEN Reply with quote

FOOD & DINING IN SWEDEN

GENERAL

Traditional Swedish cooking cannnot be compared with the sophistication of, say, French or Italian cuisine. Swedish food is usually simple and satisfying, and nowadays also healthy. In the last few decades immigrants from all over the world have enriched Swedish food culture with a host of exciting dishes. Foreign fast food, for example, has become an inseparable part of Swedish youth culture.

Increasingly, visitors are viewing Sweden as a culinary citadel of renown. Part of this derives from the legendary freshness of Swedish game and produce; part derives from the success of Sweden's culinary team at cooking contests everywhere. Some social pundits claim that the fame of Sweden's culinary team now rivals that of its national hockey team. There are today an estimated 1,500 restaurants and bars in Stockholm alone.

Smörgåsbord

The word smörgås means something like "open sandwich", and bord is the Swedish word for "table", but still a smörgåsbord is not a table full of sandwiches. This specialty instead consists of a number of small dishes, from which you can take your pick. An average smörgåsbord may, for instance, contain a number of herring dishes (sweet-pickled herring, pickled herring with onions, mustard, dill, etc.), Swedish meatballs, salmon, pies, salads, 'Jansson´s temptation' (sliced herring, potatoes and onions baked in cream), eggs, bread, boiled and fried potatoes and so on. Smörgåsbord was served already in the18th century but at that time it was used as an appetizer before the main course. Gradually, however, it has become a meal in itself. Today few people ask for more after having tried everything on a smörgåsbord.

Special Dishes

In the cities, there are always restaurants where you can find a today´s special (dagens rätt) go to about 50 kronor. If you visit a restaurant in the evening, you should be prepared to pay about 100 - 150 kronor for an average dish. Also, don´t forget that alcohol is very expensive in Sweden.

If you want to try some typical Swedish fast-food, you can go to a hot-dog stand (korvkiosk). There you can choose between fried and boiled hot dogs, served with French fries or mashed potatoes together with mustard and/or ketchup (Senap eller ketchup? you will be asked). Lately, some new dishes have turned up in the stands, like baked potatoes.

If you want to taste some Swedish homely fare you can try pea soup with pork and pancakes for dessert. This dish is usally served on Thursdays and if you want to go the whole works you should order some Swedish punch for the pancakes, a yellow and very sweet alcoholic beverage, usually served ice-cold.

Pytt i panna, a hash of fried diced meat with onions and potatoes is another specialty. It is served with fried eggs and slices of pickled red beets. You can also try kåldolmar, or stuffed cabbage rolls, a dish brought home by King Charles XII (Karl XII) after an involuntary residence in Turkey, nearly three hundred years ago.

If you are here in August you might get invited to a crayfish party. The crayfish are boiled with dill, sugar and salt and you eat them using your hands. The meat is found in the claws and in the tail of the animal.

Midsummer is perhaps the Swedish greatest festival. This is one occasion where the smörgåsbord is served. Herring, meatballs and fresh potatoes are almost compulsory dishes, and usually a lot of snaps is served too.

Christmas and Easter have their own traditional dishes.There are also special days during the year for waffles and cream buns with almond paste (semlor); both these days occur in the spring, but you might find 'semlor' already in January.

Bread, Pastry and Coffee

Sweetness is a prominent characteristic of Swedish bread, although unsweetened types are available in most stores. If you want to spread something typically Swedish on a slice of bread, try messmör, which is a soft whey-cheese from the north of Sweden. It is quite sweet, too!

When it comes to drinking coffee, Swedes rank second in the world (per capita, of course). People usually drink coffee for breakfast, after lunch or during the highly esteemed coffee breaks, but there are also special coffee parties (kafferep). If you are invited to one, you can expect to find at least seven sorts of home-made buns and cakes, a kind of minimum amount according to Swedish housewives´standards.

Surströmming

If you try surströmming, or fermented Baltic herring, we are confident that you will never forget it. It is sold in cans, and when you open them a strong, foul smell is released, the result of a fermentation process. This method of preservation was invented long ago, when brining food was quite expensive due to the costs of salt. When fermentation was used, on the other hand, just enough salt was required to keep the fish from rottening. Surströmming is served with boiled potatoes and onions and often rolled into a slice of tunnbröd, a type of thin, flat unleavened bread. Although lots of people do not like it, you have to eat it a couple of times before you really appreciate the taste, there is a hard core of surströmming devotees, most of them in the north of the country.

Other National Specialties

• Köttbullar (small meatballs).

• Smoked reindeer from Lapland.

• Gravlax (salmon that has been specially prepared and marinated).

• Wild strawberries and cloudberries.

INTERESTING PLACES TO DINE IN STOCKHOLM

Edsbacka Krog
Six restaurants in Stockholm have been awarded a star in the Guide Rouge. One has two stars: Edsbacka Krog i Sollentuna. It was opened by Christer Lingström in 1983 in a building where there used to be an inn serving food and drink as early as 1626. The restaurant has an inventive menu with dishes characterized by creative combinations of ingredients and immaculate taste. This is continental cooking at its best – with a Swedish twist. The restaurant is not very conveniently located for tourists, however – all the way up in Sollentuna to the north of the city, some 30 minutes by taxi.

Sollentunavägen 220
Tel: (08) 963 300. Fax: (08) 964 019.
E-mail: info@edsbackakrog.se
Website: www.edsbackakrog.se

Berns
Given a makeover by British style guru Sir Terence Conran just a few years ago, this restaurant in the Berns Hotel has a born-again quality. On a busy night, Berns can squeeze in around 250 diners, who come to enjoy the top-rate cooking and the added attraction of the new crustacean bar, which is a must for seafood lovers. There is a wide variety of fresh shellfish served with various sauces and cooked according to the diner’s personal preference. Other Berns specialties are the excellent lobster and the dessert option of delicious armagnac (brandy) ice cream. The restaurant was once a grand theatre hall and the impressive decor, with gilded ceilings and huge chandeliers, creates a remarkable setting for dinner.

Berzelii Park
Tel: (08) 5663 2222.
E-mail: info@berns.se
Website: www.berns.se

Bon Lloc
Another fine dining temple that proves how much the Swedes love top-quality cooking, Bon Lloc has a relaxed atmosphere and food with a Spanish influence. In the dining room, the straight-back, upholstered chairs are teal and wine coloured, with crisp white tablecloths for silver service. With arguably the finest chef in all of Sweden at the helm, Bon Lloc cannot really go wrong. Mathias Dahlgren’s ‘nouveau Euro-Latino’ cooking well deserves its Michelin star and booking well ahead is essential. One of the best dishes is oven-roasted ham with apple cider glaze, while the willingness to experiment is evident in main courses such as roasted pig’s foot.

Regeringsgatan 111
Tel: (08) 660 6060. Fax: (08) 107 635.
Website: www.bonlloc.se

PA & Co
This used to be one of the undoubted stars of the Stockholm restaurant scene, but its most fashionable times are now behind it. Once responsible in many ways for helping to kick-start the city’s culinary renaissance, PA & Co is nevertheless still going strong, despite its detractors. This longevity is largely due to the excellent value of the food on offer. The decor is simple and understated, while the Swedish produce is still as fresh as ever, with well-cooked red-meat dishes including excellent reindeer. PA & Co serves French, Swedish and Thai cuisine.

Riddargatan 8
Tel: (08) 611 0845.

Wedholms Fisk
Stockholm is a city that is surrounded by rivers, lakes and the sea, so it is no surprise that seafood is so popular here. The accolade of best fish restaurant in the city is much fought over, although many locals and discerning visitors agree that the honour goes to Wedholms Fisk, whose freshly prepared seafood has earned the restaurant a Michelin star. The creamy sauces that cover the freshly caught sole, turbot and salmon are legendary on the Stockholm culinary scene. The classical cooking style varies between Swedish and classical French, while the decor tends toward the pale and purely stylish. Closed Sunday.

Nybrokajen 17
Tel: (08) 611 7874.

Bakfickan
This restaurant is a firm favorite with local businesspeople and is a trusted venue for a business lunch or dinner. This small and stylish counter restaurant (with seating either at the bar or narrow tables) is the least formal of the venues located at the State Opera House, serving up a fresh selection of traditional Swedish dishes including open smörgåsar - sandwiches. Diners can choose to eat either at the long counter or at the small tables. Closed Sunday.

Operahuset, Karl XII Torg
Tel: (08) 676 5800. Fax: (08) 209 592.
E-mail: info@operakallaren.se
Website: www.operakallaren.se

Franska Matsalen
For unabashed glamour and old-world style, Franska Matsalen at the Grand Hotel is hard to beat. The restaurant has been at the Grand Hotel since the beginning in 1874, and the setting is still popular among the local business community, as a classy place for winning over clients and introducing people to the city for the first time. Fresh fish and red meat feature strongly on the menu and main courses include seared turbot with chanterelles and white wine sauce or peppered glazed reindeer with Jerusalem artichoke and Swiss chard. Savvy diners book a window seat with views across to the Royal Palace.

Grand Hotel, S. Blasieholmskajen 8
Tel: (08) 679 3584. Fax: (08) 611 8686.
Website: www.franskamatsalen.se

Fredsgatan 12
The classical surroundings of this first-rate restaurant are renowned as a great setting for a business lunch or dinner, with top-quality cuisine to match. The interior is unfussy and cool, reflecting the simple Swedish fusion food on the menu. The cooking has earned Fredsgatan 12 a Michelin star and the verandah outside is the business place to be seen on a summer day. All courses are starter sized and the restaurant recommends five dishes be chosen. Samples dishes include shellfish tempura, fillet of beef carapaccio, and venison sauteed with pak choi (an East Asian vegetable). Diners can also try the delicious yellow cloudberries, when in season. The chef, Melker Andersson, is a Swedish celebrity and has twice been voted ‘Chef of chefs’ by 50 of his most distinguished colleagues in Sweden.

Fredsgatan 12
Tel: (08) 248 052. Fax: (08) 237 605.
E-mail: info@fredsgatan12.com
Website: www.f12.se

Mårten Trotzig
At the most expensive end of the business market, this restaurant hits the mark for those trying to impress potential clients or thank old ones. During summer, diners can enjoy the sun in the courtyard, while things move inside during winter – to the cosy interior rooms, heated by a roaring fire. Specialties include deer and hare, while the homemade ginger beer is legendary. For those on a tighter budget, there is also a cheaper menu that explores a similar mix of Swedish and international dishes.

Västerlånggatan 79
Tel: (08) 442 2530. Fax: (08) 204 420.
Website: www.martentrotzig.se

Restaurant Lux Stockholm
This excellent establishment opened its doors in 2003 on the island Lilla Essingen, a part of Stockholm that has experienced a Renaissance in recent years. The restaurant is located in an old and very pretty industrial building with great views just by the waterfront. A star in the Guide Michelin is one of many signs of public acclaim so far. The food is modern European but with distinctly Swedish flavours.

Primusgatan 116
Tel: (08) 619 0190. Fax: (08) 619 0447.
E-mail: info@luxstockholm.com (not for bookings)
Website: www.luxstockholm.com

Stadshuskällaren
This is where they cook the dinners for the Nobel Prize ceremonies and it is also a good place for rewarding business contacts and cementing new relationships. The restaurant is particularly renowned for the quality of its omelets, which come with a variety of fillings. Guests can dine in style on white linen tablecloths in the City Hall, under the beauty of the paintings on the ceiling that date back to its opening in 1923.

City Hall, Hantverkargatan 1
Tel: (08) 5063 2200. Fax: (08) 5063 2299.
E-mail: stadshuskallaren@profilrestauranger.se
Website: www.profilrestauranger.se

Buddha Dining & Bar
Buddha Dining & Bar is a busy and buzzy place with an exotic kitchen blending Chinese, Japanese and many other influences. The menu is very eclectic and includes sushi and dim sum as well as some Swedish classics. Particularly popular are the set menus which consist of a selection of dishes served in tapas portions. The atmosphere is decidedly oriental and guests are encouraged to sample dishes that stimulate all the senses.

Biblioteksgatan 9
Tel: (08) 545 18500. Fax: (08) 545 18509.

Folkhemmet
Folkhemmet, a trendy and bohemian place with an award-winning bar, is an excellent example of the new trend for relaxed restaurants that serve up the best of fresh Swedish produce. A lively crowd occupies the candlelit tables in the main restaurant, which features an open-plan kitchen where the chefs can be seen at work. When the weather allows, there are also tables outside. Menu highlights include starters such as beetroot with goat’s cheese and honey, or asparagus with hollandaise sauce, and mains such as vegetarian cannelloni. The wine list is good value for Stockholm.

Renstiernas Gata 30
Tel: (08) 640 5595. Fax: (08) 643 8728.

Halv Trappa Plus Gård
This trendy place, with its avant-garde Scandinavian decor, serves up inspired cooking in surroundings that recall the glories of the 1970s. Diners can choose between the quirky interior and the tables outside during the warmer months. Halv Trappa Plus Gård reopened in April 2003 and now serves an excellent selection of exciting Chinese dishes.

Lästmakargatan 3
Tel: (08) 678 1050.

Ristorante Paganini
This is a popular Italian restaurant on one of the most bustling streets of Gamla Stan (Old Town). Inside it is cosy and stylish, with large mirrors, plain walls and starched white tablecloths. The menu is a mix of Italian and Swedish dishes with T-Bone steaks and pasta courses such as tortelloni with gorgonzola or with beef.

Vaster Langgatan 75
Tel: (08) 406 0607. Fax: (08) 244 121.
Website: www.paganini.nu

Rolfs Kök
One of the trendiest places to eat in Stockholm, Rolfs Kök is where the local cognoscenti head. The sparse interior veers towards minimalism and the food tends towards the style (and often small portions) of nouvelle cuisine. The menu is a collage of Swedish and international influences, which are given innovative reinventions in the Rolfs Kök style.

Tegnergatan 41
Tel: (08) 101 696.
Website: www.rolfskok.se

Manna Gourmet
This relaxed restaurant offers excellent vegan food in no-nonsense surroundings – the interior is somewhat Spartan, down-to-earth and almost clinical. Dishes are healthy and filling and many think this is the best vegetarian restaurant in the city. Menu items include veggie dishes with pasta, potatoes or unpolished rice. Guests can make up their own mix of the main courses on offer or have some hot soup on a cold day.

Åsögatan 102
Tel: (08) 640 5969.

Gondolen
Gondolen easily offers the best view of any restaurant in Stockholm. Decor is functional and simple but this purpose-built viewing capsule lends diners panoramic vistas of the Stockholm skyline. The menu mixes French and Swedish cuisine and changes regularly. Menu highlights include gravadlax (marinated salmon) with asparagus or the roasted reindeer fillet served in cranberry sauce. Closed Sundays.

Stadsgården 6
Tel: (08) 641 7090. Fax: (08) 641 1140.
E-mail: info@eriks.se
Website: www.eriks.se
Price: SKr450. Wine: SKr235.

Restaurant J
This restaurant is a boat ride outside the city centre. Its aquatic locale, on a marina by Nacka Strand in south-east Stockholm, complements the cooking, which focuses on seafood. Culinary wonders are worked in the kitchen with the day’s catch, which often includes turbot and salmon. The menu also features a range of salads and, in the colder months, hearty soups. The sunbathed terrace is a heavenly place to be on a hot summer day, although the restaurant is also enjoyable for cosy autumnal dinners.

Augustendalsvägen 52
Tel: (08) 601 3005. Fax: (08) 601 3029.
E-mail: nackastrand@restaurantj.com
Website: www.restaurantj.com

Nordic Hotel Restaurant

For those either arriving at or leaving from Stockholm’s main international airport, the bright and breezy restaurant at the Nordic Light Hotel is only a two-minute walk from the airport’s Arlanda Express train terminal. The restaurant is the perfect alternative to the ramble of fast food joints in the railway building itself. Lunches are light and good value, while the evening meals are more interesting, with seafood taking centre stage. One innovative idea for lunch is the ‘Swedish platter’, a one-dish meal that features Swedish sausages, gravadlax and fish roe.

Nordic Light Hotel, Vastaplan 7
Tel: (08) 5056 3000. Fax: (08) 5056 3060.
E-mail: info@nordichotels.se
Website: www.nordichotels.se

Salzer Restaurant & Bar
This restaurant is unique in Stockholm for its 1950s interior, which has made it an instant favourite with the city’s stylish set. It might remind some diners too much of Happy Days, but the food is fresh, modern and international. The large portions of the Swedish mainstays, such as Åseda isterband (a type of smoked sausage) with potatoes in white sauce, keep the locals coming back for more, with dishes.

John Ericssons gata 6
Tel: (08) 650 3028. Fax: (08) 651 3028.
E-mail: info@saltzer.nu
Website: www.salzer.nu

Tranan
This is the type of simple but genuine place that is popular with Swedes who want to dine out without breaking the bank. Not only do few tourists ever make it here but the menu is written in Swedish only, so adventurous visitors will have to trust the friendly staff and other diners to fill them in on translations of the traditional Swedish dishes. One excellent example of the food on offer here is the fillet of beef served with fried potatoes, horseradish and egg yolk. Tranan also serves several vegetarian dishes, such as goat’s cheese on toast. The decor is that of a typical French bistro, giving it a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere.

Karlbergsvägen 14
Tel: (08) 5272 8100.
E-mail: tranan@tranan.se
Website: www.tranan.se
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