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SAN DIEGO TOURISM GUIDE

You won't run out of things to see and do in San Diego especially if outdoor activities are high on the agenda. The San Diego Zoo, SeaWorld, and the Wild Animal Park are the city's three top attractions, but Balboa Park's museums, downtown's Gaslamp Quarter, the beaches, shopping in Old Town and a performance at one of the live theatres or a Padres game at brand-new PETCO Park are all attractions worth visiting.

Architecture Attractions

San Diego's historical architecture is most often defined by the abundance of Spanish mission structures, a style that was introduced to California by Father Junípero Serra at the Mission Basilica San Diego. Ostensibly, the adobe walls and tile roofs made it harder for Native Americans to burn down his churches. Spanish colonial style was revived gloriously for the 1915-16 Panama-California Exposition in Balboa Park by New York architect Bertram Goodhue, who oversaw a romantic fantasia abounding with Mediterranean flourishes.

But San Diego's first important architect was Irving Gill, who arrived in the city in 1893 and soon made his mark by designing buildings to integrate into the desert-like landscape. Gill's structures include numerous homes in Uptown and La Jolla; Gill's First Church of Christ Scientist building, 2444 Second Avenue (at Laurel) in Hillcrest, is on the National Historic Landmark list. Following the Expo, prolific local architects like William Templeton Johnson and Richard Requa integrated the Spanish/Mediterranean concept into their structures around the city, most famously the Serra Museum at Presidio Park, downtown's County Administration Center, the Bazaar del Mundo (formerly the Casa de Pico Motel), and the Torrey Pines Visitors Center.

Modernism swept through the city after World War II, championed by Lloyd Ruocco, and the city's steady growth after the war allowed many inspired architects to leave their handprint on San Diego.

Historic buildings of particular interest include houses like the Victorian Villa Montezuma and the Craftsman-style Marston House. The Gaslamp Quarter walking tour will lead you past the area's restored Victorian commercial buildings. A stroll along the Prado of Balboa Park is a must, and turn-of-the-20th-century neighbourhoods like Bankers Hill (just west of Balboa Park) and Mission Hills (west of Hillcrest) are feasts of Victorian mansions and Craftsman abodes. In La Jolla, you'll find the classic buildings created by Irving Gill.

Downtown blends old and new with mixed results, though no one can deny the value of saving the Gaslamp Quarter from probable demolition in the 1970s. Little Italy, the quaint business and residential district along India Street (between Ash and Laurel sts.), is both endangered by the current building craze and also thriving amid some of the city's most progressive architecture. While you're in the central business district, take a look at the sprawling scale model of the city at the Centre City Development Corporation's Downtown Information Center, 225 Broadway (tel. 619/235-2200); it gives a taste of where the city is headed.

A splendid corridor of contemporary architecture has sprouted around the University of California, San Diego, including the campus's spacecraft-like Geisel Library, by William Pereira. Nearby is the Louis Kahn-designed Salk Institute, and the Neurosciences Institute, a 1996 creation by Tod Williams-Billie Tsien. A free tour of the Salk Institute, probably Kahn's masterpiece, is held Monday through Friday at noon; call tel. 858/453-4100, ext. 1200, for times and to reserve a place.

For more information on San Diego architecture, call the local branch of the AIA (tel. 619/232-0109). And for a self-guided tour of the city's highlights, Dirk Sutro's San Diego Architecture (San Diego Architectural Foundation, 2002; $25) is indispensable, with maps, addresses, and descriptions of hundreds of important structures throughout the city and county.

Gardens

San Diego is a gardener's paradise, thanks in large part to the initial efforts and inspiration of Kate Sessions, who planted the initial trees that led to today's mature landscapes in Balboa Park. While in the park be sure to visit the Japanese Friendship Garden, the Botanical Building and Lily Pond, and the rose and desert gardens (across the road from Plaza de Balboa). And you'll notice that both the San Diego Zoo and Wild Animal Park are outstanding botanical gardens. Many visitors who admire the landscaping at the zoo don't realize that the plantings have been carefully developed over the years. The 100 acres were once scrub-covered hillsides with few trees. Today, towering eucalyptus and graceful palms, birds of paradise, and hibiscus are just a few of the 6,500 botanical species from all over the world that flourish here.

Balboa Park isn't the only place to see San Diego in bloom. Watch for these flowering trees and shrubs:

January: Blooming aloe, agave, azalea, and camellias; February: Acacia, angel's trumpet, gold medallion tree, strawberry snowball tree, pink trumpet tree, cup of gold vine; March through April: Blue hibiscus, orchid tree, ceanothus, coral tree, Australian tea tree, silk oak, protea, Indian hawthorn, Mexican bush sage, bird of paradise, Chinese wisteria, roses; May: Bougainvillea, Australian flame tree, hibiscus, southern magnolia, pink melaleuca, sausage tree, Mexican palo verde; June through August: False heather, garden hydrangea, jacaranda, plumeria, African tulip tree, yellow oleander; September through December: Chinese flame tree, golden raintree, Hong Kong orchid tree, weeping bottle brush, ginkgo.

Garden enthusiasts will also want to stop by the 30-acre Quail Botanical Gardens in Encinitas. If you'd like to take plants home with you, visit some of the area's nurseries, starting with the charming neighbourhood one started in 1910 by Kate Sessions, the Mission Hills Nursery, 1525 Fort Stockton Dr. (tel. 619/295-2808). Walter Andersen's Nursery, 3642 Enterprise St. (tel. 619/224-8271), is also a local favourite. Flower growing is big business in this area, and plant enthusiasts could spend a week just visiting the retail and wholesale purveyors of everything from pansies to palm trees.

Founded by Kate Sessions, the San Diego Floral Association, the oldest garden club in Southern California and based in the Casa del Prado in Balboa Park (tel. 619/232-5762; www.sdfloral.org), offers day tours involving places of horticultural interest, and has events featuring speakers, classes, and exhibits.

Military Attractions

San Diego's military history dates to the U.S. Navy's aviation achievements at Coronado in the 1910s. Today, two aircraft carriers (the USS John C. Stennis and USS Nimitz), 50 surface warfare ships, and six submarines are home ported in the city's natural harbour. San Diego salutes its armed forces during Fleet Week, held in mid-October and led by the popular Miramar Air Show, with aerial performances by the Blue Angels; for more information see www.miramarairshow.com.

Ongoing events include the recruit graduation at the Marine Corps Recruit Depot, off Pacific Coast Highway (near Barnett St.), held most Fridays at 10am (tel. 619/524-1765). Old Town Trolley Tours (tel. 619/298-TOUR) offers a "Tour of Patriots" via amphibious vehicles, on Tuesdays. You'll visit Shelter Island, tour the MCRD, do a walk through the base Command Museum, and have an opportunity to purchase military memorabilia at the base gift shop. The 3-hour tour costs $25 ($15 for kids ages 4-12), and reservations are necessary. And both San Diego Harbor Excursion and Hornblower Cruises tour the San Diego Bay, providing an inside glimpse of naval activities. At Cabrillo National Monument in Point Loma, visitors gain an excellent view of the harbour, including the nuclear submarine base, and a small museum tells about the gun batteries established on the peninsula during WWII.

While in San Diego, also be sure to see the San Diego Aerospace Museum in Balboa Park, and don't miss the city's biggest new attraction, the San Diego Aircraft Carrier Museum, located on the Embarcadero.

Vineyards

Visit Orfila Vineyards (tel. 760/738-6500; www.orfila.com), located on the way to the Wild Animal Park in Escondido. Italian-born winemaker Leon Santoro is a veteran of Napa Valley (Louis Martini and Stag's Leap). Besides producing excellent chardonnay and merlot, the winery also makes several Rhône and Italian varietals, including Sangiovese. The tasting room is open daily from 10am to 6pm, and guided tours are offered at 2pm. The property includes a parklike picnic area and a shop.

Other North County wineries include the Bernardo Winery, just south of Escondido (tel. 858/487-1866), and Fallbrook Winery in Fallbrook (tel. 760/728-0156). If you have time to go farther afield, the wineries along Rancho California Road in Temecula, just across the San Diego County line, are open for tours and tastings.

Downtown

In 2004, downtown San Diego completed a huge construction project, the Padres' PETCO Park which has extended the rebuilt downtown a few blocks farther east. Real estate developers in the "East Village" are stepping up to the plate in hopes of cashing in on a home run.

In the meantime, you can wander from the turn-of-the-20th-century Gaslamp Quarter to the joyful, modern architecture of the Horton Plaza shopping centre. The Gaslamp consists of 16 1/2 blocks of restored historic buildings. It gets its name from the old-fashioned street lamps that line the sidewalks. You'll find many of San Diego's best restaurants and the most vigorous nightlife scene here. At Horton Plaza, you can shop, stroll, snack or dine, enjoy free entertainment, see a movie, and people-watch -- all within a unique and playful village framework.

Seaport Village is a shopping and dining complex on the waterfront. It was designed to look like a New England seaport community. If you find the views across the water alluring, another way to experience San Diego's waterfront is with one of several harbour tours.

Cabrillo National Monument
Breathtaking views mingle with the early history of San Diego, which began when Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo arrived in 1542. His statue dominates the tip of Point Loma, 422 feet above sea level, which is also a vantage point for watching migrating Pacific gray whales en route from the Arctic Ocean to Baja California December through March. A self-guided tour of the restored lighthouse (1855) illuminates what life was like here more than a century ago (fog and low clouds made the lighthouse ineffective so another was built close to the water in 1891). National Park Service rangers lead walks at the monument, and there are tide pools to explore at the base of the peninsula. On the other side of the point is the Bayside Trail, a 3.2-mile round-trip down to a lookout over the bay. Free 30-minute videos and slide shows on Cabrillo, tide pools, and the whales are shown on the hour daily from 10am to 4pm. Note the view from the visitor centre to the left (north); the blocky structure on the water is the navy's nuclear submarine base. The drive from downtown takes about a half-hour.

Firehouse Museum
Appropriately housed in San Diego's oldest firehouse, the museum features shiny fire engines, including hand-drawn and horse-drawn models, a 1903 steam pumper, and memorabilia such as antique alarms, fire hats, and foundry molds for fire hydrants. There's also a small gift shop. Allow about half an hour for your visit.

Maritime Museum
This flotilla of classic ships is led by the full-rigged merchant vessel Star of India (1863), a National Historic Landmark and the world's oldest ship that still goes to sea. The gleaming white San Francisco-Oakland steam-powered ferry Berkeley (1898) worked round-the-clock to carry people to safety following the 1906 San Francisco earthquake; you'll find a museum with fine ship models on display. The elegant Medea (1904) is one of the world's few remaining large steam yachts, and the Pilot (1914) was San Diego Bay's official pilot boat for 82 years. Recent additions include the HMS Surprise, a painstakingly accurate reproduction of an 18th century Royal Navy Frigate, which played a supporting role to Russell Crowe in the film Master and Commander: Far Side of the World; and a 300-foot-long Cold War-era B-39 Soviet attack submarine. You can board and tour each vessel.

Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego Downtown
Opened in 1993, the downtown branch is the second location of the Museum of Contemporary Art (the original branch is in La Jolla). Two large and two smaller galleries present changing exhibitions of nationally and internationally distinguished contemporary artists; plan to spend about half an hour here. Lectures and tours for adults and children are also offered. The first Thursday evening of every month is "TNT" (Thursday Night Thing), with eclectic artist events and drawing the martini set. In 2005 MCA will take over the baggage building of the Santa Fe depot across the street, which will almost triple the exhibition space at this branch, making it the preeminent museum in downtown.

San Diego Aircraft Carrier Museum
On January 10, 2004, the USS Midway made her final voyage into San Diego Bay. The aircraft carrier had a 47-year military history that began 1 week after the Japanese surrender of WWII in 1945. By the time the Midway was decommissioned in 1991, the warship had patrolled the Taiwan Straits in 1955, operated in the Tonkin Gulf, served as the flagship from which Desert Storm was conducted, and evacuated 1,800 people from volcano-threatened Subic Bay Naval Base in the Philippines -- in all, more than 200,000 men served aboard the Midway. The carrier is now moored at the Embarcadero and has become San Diego's first naval museum. A self-guided audio tour takes visitors to several levels of the ship, telling the story of life on board. The highlight is climbing up the superstructure to the bridge and gazing down on the 1,001-foot-long flight deck, with various aircraft poised for duty. What really brings the experience to life is how the ship has not been restored cosmetically -- incomplete paint jobs litter the walls with the occasional graffiti, the austere bunkers look like the inhabitants just stepped out.

San Diego Chinese Historical Museum
Located in the former Chinese Mission, where Chinese immigrants learned English and adapted to their new environment, this small museum contains antique Chinese lottery equipment, a series of panels documenting the gold rush, and artifacts unearthed from San Diego's old Chinatown (located south of Market, between Third and Fifth aves.). There's a nice gift shop, and a pleasant garden in back with a bronze statue of Confucius. Allow about half an hour for your visit. Walking tours of the Asian Pacific Historic District start here on the second Saturday of the month; the cost is $2.

Villa Montezuma
This exquisite mansion just southeast of downtown was built in 1887 for internationally acclaimed musician and author Jesse Shepard. Lush with Victoriana, it features more stained glass than most churches are blessed with; windows depict Mozart, Beethoven, Sappho, Rubens, St. Cecilia (patron saint of musicians), and other notables. The striking ceilings are of Lincrusta Walton -- pressed canvas coated with linseed oil, a forerunner of linoleum, which never looked this good. Shepard lived here with his life companion, Lawrence Tonner, for only 2 years, and died in obscurity in Los Angeles in 1927. The San Diego Historical Society painstakingly restored the house, which is on the National Register of Historic Places, and furnished it with period pieces. The neighbourhood is not as fashionable as the building, but it's safe to park your car in the daytime. If you love Victorian houses, don't miss this one for its quirkiness. Join the 45-minute docent-led tour, which begins every hour on the hour (except the last tour, which starts at 3:45pm).

William Heath Davis House Museum
Shipped by boat to San Diego in 1850 from Portland, Maine, this is the oldest structure in the Gaslamp Quarter. It is a well-preserved example of a prefabricated "saltbox" family home, and has remained structurally unchanged for more than 150 years. A museum, on the first and second floors, is open to the public, as is the small park adjacent to the house. The house is also home to the Gaslamp Quarter Historical Foundation, which sponsors walking tours of the quarter for $8 ($6 for seniors, students, and military), every Saturday at 11am.

The Old Town

The birthplace of San Diego -- indeed, of California -- Old Town takes you back to the Mexican California, which existed here until the mid-1800s. Bazaar del Mundo is a 1930s-era motel that was turned into a collection of shops selling well-chosen south-of-the-border wares. The complex suffers a tourist invasion daily, but who can blame them? The Bazaar is vivid, intimate, and anything but plastic. It's also a popular spot for California-style Mexican meals and margaritas. "

Mission Valley, which starts just north of Presidio Park and heads straight east, is decidedly more modern: Until I-8 was built in the 1950s, it was little more than cow pastures with a couple of dirt roads. Shopping malls, motels, a golf course, condos, car dealerships, and a massive sports stadium fill the expanse today, following the San Diego River upstream to the Mission Basilica San Diego, and just a few miles beyond, an outstanding park with walking trails. Few visitors make it this far, but Mission Trails Regional Park reveals what San Diego looked like before the Spanish arrived.

Heritage Park
This 8-acre county park, dedicated to preservation of Victorian architecture of the 1880s, contains seven original 19th-century houses moved here from other places and given new uses. Among them are a bed-and-breakfast, a doll shop, and a gift shop. The small charming synagogue at the entrance, Temple Beth Israel, was built in 1889 in Classic Revival style and relocated here in 1989. A glorious coral tree crowns the top of the hill.

Junípero Serra Museum
Perched on a hill above Old Town, this Spanish Mission-style structure overlooks the slopes where, in 1769, the first mission, first presidio, and first non-native settlement on the west coast of the United States and Canada were founded (in 1774 the San Diego Mission was relocated 6 miles up Mission Valley; see below). The museum's recently upgraded exhibits introduce visitors to the Native American, Spanish, and Mexican people who first called this place home. On display are their belongings, from cannons to cookware; a Spanish furniture collection; and one of the first paintings brought to California, which survived being damaged in an Indian attack. Follow the stairs up the tower and notice the map mural which documents the arduous journey Father Serra made to San Diego. From the 70-foot tower, visitors can compare the view with historic photos to see how this land has changed over time. Designed by William Templeton Johnson in 1929, the stately building can be seen from miles around. (And incidentally, the Spanish revival structures on the opposite side of the valley are contemporary and part of the University of San Diego.)

The settlement remained San Diego's only European village until the 1820s, when families began to move down the hill into what is now Old Town. An archaeological dig on the lower slopes is ongoing to uncover more of the items used by early settlers. The large cross overlooking the site is made of floor tile from the presidio ruins. Presidio Park, which was established around the museum, is a nice place for a picnic.

Mission Basilica San Diego de Alcala
Established in 1769 above Old Town, this was the first link in a chain of 21 missions founded by Spanish missionary Junípero Serra. In 1774, the mission was moved from Old Town to its present site for agricultural reasons, and to separate Native American converts from the fortress that included the original building. The mission was burned by Native Americans a year after it was built -- Father Serra rebuilt the structure using 5- to 7-foot-thick adobe walls and clay tile roofs, rendering it harder to burn. In the process he inspired a bevy of 20th-century California architects. A few bricks belonging to the original mission can be seen in Presidio Park in Old Town. Mass is said daily in this active Catholic parish. Other missions in San Diego County include Mission San Luis Rey de Francia in Oceanside, Mission San Antonia de Pala near Mount Palomar, and Mission Santa Ysabel near Julian. Known as "the King of Missions," the San Luis Rey is the largest of California's missions and one of its most beautiful.

Mission Trails Regional Park
Located well off the beaten track for tourists, this is one of the nation's largest urban parks, a 5,800-acre spread that includes abundant bird life, two lakes, a picturesque stretch of the San Diego River, the Old Mission Dam (probably the first irrigation project in the West), and 1,592-foot Cowles Mountain, the summit of which reveals outstanding views over much of the county. There are trails up to 4 miles in length, including a 1 1/2-mile interpretive trail, and some of which are designated for mountain bike use, and a 46-space campground (tel. 619/668-2748). The park came about in 1974 when the area surrounding Cowles Mountain began to experience a housing boom; city and county representatives worked with Navajo community planners to make an initial purchase of land. In 1989 the first park ranger was hired, and in 1995 the visitor centre opened, cementing a place for Mission Trails in the hearts of outdoor-loving San Diegans. The 2003 fires licked at the northern edge of the park, leaving scars that are slowly healing.

Old Town State Historic Park
Dedicated to re-creating the early life of the city from 1821 to 1872, this is where San Diego's Mexican heritage shines brightest. The community was briefly Mexico's informal capital of the California territory; the Stars and Stripes were finally raised over Old Town in 1846. Seven of the park's 20 structures are original, including homes made of adobe; the rest are reconstructed. The park's headquarters is at the Robinson-Rose House, 4002 Wallace St., where you can pick up a map and peruse a model of Old Town as it looked in 1872. Among the park's attractions are La Casa de Estudillo, which depicts the living conditions of a wealthy family in 1872; and Seeley Stables, named after A. L. Seeley, who ran the stagecoach and mail service in these parts from 1867 to 1871. The stables have two floors of wagons, carriages, stagecoaches, and other memorabilia, including washboards, slot machines, and hand-worked saddles. On Wednesdays and Saturdays, costumed park volunteers reenact life in the 1800s with cooking and crafts demonstrations, a working blacksmith, and parlor singing. Free 1-hour walking tours leave weekdays at 11am, and Saturday to Sunday at 2pm, from the Robinson-Rose House. Note that on weekdays throughout the school year, Old Town buzzes with fourth-graders.

Whaley House
In 1856, this striking two-story brick house (the first one in these parts) was built for Thomas Whaley and his family. Whaley was a New Yorker who arrived via San Francisco, where he had been lured by the gold rush. It's probably an urban legend that Whaley's house is designated as "one of only two authenticated haunted houses in California," yet 10,000 schoolchildren visit each year to see for themselves. Besides, no one can really explain why photos taken inside the house often develop with foggy apparitions (apparently, four spirits haunt the structure). Exhibits include a life mask of Abraham Lincoln, one of only six made; the spinet piano used in the movie Gone with the Wind; and the concert piano that accompanied Swedish soprano Jenny Lind on her final U.S. tour in 1852. In back is the cottage that was San Diego's first drugstore (dating to 1867) -- it now houses a shop selling attractive Native American art and jewelry. And the nice shop in front is run by the Save Our Heritage Organisation, which offers beautiful Arts and Crafts pottery, architecture-themed books, and crafts.

Coronado

It's hard to miss San Diego Bay's most noteworthy landmark: the San Diego-Coronado Bay Bridge. Completed in 1969, this graceful five-lane bridge spans 2 1/4 miles and links the city and the "island" of Coronado. At 246 feet in height, the bridge was designed to be tall enough for the navy's aircraft carriers to pass through but it still looks more elegant than utilitarian, with a sweeping curve that maximizes the view. Heading to Coronado by car is a thrill because you can see Mexico and the shipyards of National City to the left, the San Diego skyline to the right, and Coronado, the naval station, and Point Loma in front of you (designated drivers have to promise to keep their eyes on the road!). When the bridge opened, it put the antiquated commuter ferries out of business (though in 1986 passenger-only ferry service restarted). Bus no. 901 from downtown will also take you across the bridge.

Hotel del Coronado
Built in 1888, this turreted Victorian seaside resort remains an enduring, endearing national treasure. Whether you are lucky enough to stay, dine, or dance here, or simply to wander through to tour its grounds and photo gallery, prepare to be enchanted.

Museum of History and Art
This museum's new facility offers archival materials about the development of Coronado, as well as tourist information. Exhibits include photographs of the Hotel Del in its infancy; the old ferries; Tent City, a seaside campground for middle-income vacationers from 1900 to 1939; and notable residents and visitors. Other memorabilia include army uniforms, old postcards, and even recorded music. You'll also learn about the island's military aviation history during World Wars I and II. Plan to spend up to half an hour here. The museum has a self-guided walking tour of Coronado available.

La Jolla

One of San Diego's most scenic spots -- the star of postcards for more than 100 years -- is La Jolla Cove and the Ellen Browning Scripps Park on the bluff above it. The walk through the park, along Coast Boulevard (start from the north at Prospect St.), offers some of California's finest coastal scenery. Swimming, sunning, picnicking, barbecuing, reading and strolling along the oceanfront walkway are all ongoing activities, and just south is the Children's Pool, a beach where dozens of harbor seals can be spotted lazing in the sun (sorry, no swimming here). The 6,000-acre San Diego-La Jolla Underwater Park, established in 1970, stretches for 10 miles from La Jolla Cove to the northern end of Torrey Pines State Reserve, and extends from the shoreline to a depth of 900 feet. The park is a boat-free zone, with undersea flora and fauna that draw scuba divers and snorkelers, many of them hoping for a glimpse of the state fish, the brilliant orange garibaldi.

Sightseeing highlights in town include Mary Star of the Sea, 7727 Girard (at Kline), a beautiful Roman Catholic church; and La Valencia Hotel, 1132 Prospect St., a fine example of Spanish colonial structure. The La Jolla Woman's Club, 7791 Draper Ave.; the adjacent Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego; the La Jolla Recreation Center; and The Bishop's School are all examples of village buildings designed by architect Irving Gill.

At La Jolla's north end, you'll find the 1,200-acre, 22,000-student University of California, San Diego (UCSD), which was established in 1960 and represents the county's largest single employer. The campus features the Geisel Library, a striking and distinguished contemporary structure, as well as the Stuart Collection of public sculpture and the Birch Aquarium at Scripps. Architect Louis Kahn's masterpiece is probably the Salk Institute for Biological Studies, 10010 N. Torrey Pines Rd., a research facility named for the creator of the polio vaccine. Farther north is an ersatz jewel, The Lodge at Torrey Pines, a modern re-creation of early-20th-century Craftsman style in the guise of a 175-room luxury resort; it overlooks the revered Torrey Pines Golf Course.

For a fine scenic drive, follow La Jolla Boulevard to Nautilus Street and turn east to get to 800-foot-high Mount Soledad, which offers a 360-degree view of the area. The appropriateness of the 43-foot-tall cross on top, erected in 1954 in this public park, has been a subject of a 15-year legal fight involving the ACLU (religious symbols are prohibited on public land).

Hidden Attractions--While droves of folks stroll the sidewalks adjacent to La Jolla Cove, only a few know about Coast Walk. Starting behind the Cave Store, 1325 Coast Blvd. (tel. 858/459-0746), it meanders along the wooded cliffs and affords a wonderful view of the beach and beyond. The shop also serves as entry for Sunny Jim Cave, an evocative natural sea cave reached by a precipitous constricted staircase through the rock. The tunnel was hand-carved in 1903 -- it lets out on a wood-plank observation deck from which you can gaze out at the sea. It's a cool treat, particularly on a hot summer day, and costs $3 per person ($2 for kids 16 and under). Hold the handrail and your little ones' hands tightly.

Birch Aquarium at Scripps
This beautiful facility is both an aquarium and a museum, operated as the interpretive arm of the world-famous Scripps Institution of Oceanography. To make the most of the experience, be sure to pick up a visitor guide from the information booth just inside the entrance, and take time to read the text on each of the exhibits. The aquarium affords close-up views of the Pacific Northwest, the California coast, Mexico's Sea of Cortez, and the tropical seas, all presented in more than 60 marine-life tanks. The giant kelp forest is particularly impressive. Exotic highlights include the fanciful white anemones and the ethereal moon jellies, which look like elegant parachutes. The sea horse propagation program here has met with excellent results -- nine different species of sea horse are on display in one of the aquarium's best exhibits. The outdoor demonstration tide pool not only shows visitors marine coastal life but also offers an amazing view of Scripps Pier, La Jolla Shores Beach, the village of La Jolla, and the ocean. Free tide-pool talks are offered on weekends, which is also when the aquarium is most crowded, and off-site adventures are conducted year-round. The museum section has numerous interpretive exhibits on current and historic research at the Scripps Institution, which was established in 1903 and became part of the University of California system in 1912. You'll learn what fog is and why salt melts snow; the number of supermarket products with ingredients that come from the sea (including toothpaste and ice cream) might surprise you; and you can feel what an earthquake is like and experience a simulator ride, Morphis. The bookstore is well stocked with textbooks, science books, educational toys, gifts, and T-shirts.

Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego La Jolla
Focusing on work produced since 1950, this museum is known internationally for its permanent collection and thought-provoking exhibitions. The MCASD's collection of contemporary art comprises more than 3,000 works of painting, sculpture, drawings, prints, photography, video and multimedia works. The holdings include every major art movement of the past half-century, with a strong representation by California artists. You'll see particularly noteworthy examples of minimalism, light and space work, conceptualism, installation, and site-specific art -- the outside sculptures were designed specifically for this site.

The museum is perched on a cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean, and the views from the galleries are gorgeous. The original building on the site was the residence of the legendary Ellen Browning Scripps, designed by Irving Gill in 1916. It became an art museum in 1941, and the original Gill building facade was uncovered and restored in 1996. More than a dozen exhibitions are presented each year; in summer 2005 watch for "Strange New World/Extraño Nuevo Mundo," an exploration of the flourishing arts scene of Tijuana, the border town that is little appreciated by outsiders (the show will run concurrently at the downtown branch of MCASD). Guided docent tours available daily at 2pm, with a second tour Thursdays at 5:30pm. The bookstore is a great place for cutting-edge gifts, and the cafe is a pleasant stop before or after your visit.

Stuart Collection
Consider the Stuart Collection a work in progress on a large scale. Through a 1982 agreement between the Stuart Foundation and UCSD, the still-growing collection consists of site-related sculptures by leading contemporary artists. Start by picking up a map from the information booth, and wend your way through the 1,200-acre campus to discover the 15 highly diverse artworks. Among them is Niki de Saint Phalle's Sun God, a jubilant 14-foot-high fiberglass bird on a 15-foot concrete base. Nicknamed "Big Bird," it's been made an unofficial mascot by the students, who use it as the centerpiece of their annual celebration, the Sun God Festival. Also in the collection are Alexis Smith's Snake Path, a 560-foot-long slate-tile pathway that winds up the hill from the Engineering Mall to the east terrace of the spectacular Geisel Library (breathtaking architecture that's a fabulous sculpture itself); and Terry Allen's Trees, three eucalyptus trees encased in lead. One tree emits songs, and another poems and stories, while the third stands silent in a grove of trees the students call "The Enchanted Forest." Allow at least 2 hours to tour the entire collection.

Torrey Pines State Reserve
The rare Torrey pine tree grows in only two places in the world: Santa Rosa Island, 175 miles northwest of San Diego, and here, at the north end of La Jolla. Even if the twisted shape of these awkwardly beautiful trees doesn't lure you to this spot, the equally scarce undeveloped coastal scenery should. The city first donated 369 acres as a public park, and the 1,750-acre reserve was established in 1921, from a gift by Ellen Browning Scripps. The reserve encompasses the beach below, as well as a lagoon immediately north, but the focus is the 300-foot-high, water-carved limestone bluffs, which provide a precarious footing for the trees. In spring, the wildflower show includes bush poppies, Cleveland sage, agave, and yucca. A half-dozen trails (all under 1 1/2 miles in length) travel from the road to the cliff edge or down to the beach, and there's a small visitor centre, built in the traditional adobe style of the Hopi Indians and featuring a lovely 12-minute video about the park. Watch for migrating gray whales in winter, or dolphins who patrol these shores year-round. For a taste of what Southern California's coast looked like a couple hundred years ago, this delicate spot is one of San Diego's unique treasures. Note: There are no facilities for food or drinks inside the park -- bring a picnic lunch.

Mission Bay & the Beaches

Mission Bay is a man-made, 4,600-acre aquatic playground created in 1945 by dredging tidal mud flats and opening them to sea water. Today, this is a great area for walking, jogging, in-line skating, biking, and boating. The boardwalk connecting Mission Beach and Pacific Beach is almost always bustling and colorful. If you get fogged out by June Gloom, head for The Plunge, the 175-foot-long indoor pool at the foot of the Giant Dipper.

For a spectacular view, drive north on Mission Boulevard, past Turquoise Street, where it turns into La Jolla Mesa Drive. Proceed up the hill3/4-mile and turn around. From here you'll see the beaches and Point Loma in front of you, Mission Bay and the San Diego Bay, downtown, the Hillcrest/Uptown area, and (on a clear day) the hills of Tijuana, and to the east, San Diego's backcountry.

Giant Dipper Roller Coaster
A local landmark, the Giant Dipper is one of two surviving fixtures from the original Belmont Amusement Park (the other is The Plunge swimming pool). After sitting dormant for 15 years, the vintage wooden roller coaster, with more than 2,600 feet of track and 13 hills, underwent extensive restoration and reopened in 1991. If you're here with older kids, it's worth a stop, but adults may find the whole experience a bit too spine-rattling. You must be at least 50 inches tall to ride the roller coaster. You can also ride on the Giant Dipper's neighbour, the Liberty Carousel ($2), and other carny-style rides (unlimited ride wristband $17).

The Three Major Animal Parks

The world-famous San Diego Zoo is home to more than 800 animal species, many of them rare and exotic. A sister attraction, the Wild Animal Park, offers another 3,500 creatures representing 429 species in an au naturel setting. And Shamu and his friends form a veritable chorus line at SeaWorld San Diego -- waving their flippers, waddling across an ersatz Antarctica, and blowing killer-whale kisses -- in more than a dozen shows a day.

San Diego's "Big Three" family attractions are joined by LEGOLAND California, which is located about 30 miles away in the seaside community of Carlsbad.

San Diego's three main animal attractions have joined forces to offer combo tickets -- and big savings. Here's how it works: If you plan to visit both the zoo and Wild Animal Park, a two-park ticket (the "Best Value" zoo package, plus Wild Animal Park admission) is $54 for adults, $34 for children 3 to 11 (for a $61/$37 value). You get one visit to each attraction, to be used within 5 days of purchase. Or throw in SeaWorld within the same 5 days, and the combo works out to $99 for adults, $75 children ages 3 to 9 (a $111/$78 value).

Other value options include the San Diego Passport ($79 for adults, $45 for children 3-11), which includes zoo admission, an Old Town Trolley city tour, Hornblower bay cruises, and more; passports are sold at the attractions themselves. City Pass (tel. 707/256-0490, www.citypass.com) covers the zoo, SeaWorld, Disneyland Resorts, and Knott's Berry Farm in Orange County; passes are $185 for adults, and $127 for kids age 3 to 9 (a $266/$184 value), valid for 14 days.

Panda-monium--Giant pandas are among the rarest mammals in the world: It is estimated that only 1,000 remain in the wild, where they live in dense bamboo and coniferous forests at altitudes above 4,000 feet. Their numbers have dwindled due to the destruction of their natural habitat and poaching. Currently there are about 110 giant pandas in captivity, mostly in China; zoos in Atlanta, Washington, D.C., Mexico City, Japan, and Germany also have giant pandas. In 1996, following 3 years of negotiation by the U.S. Department of the Interior, the Wolong Giant Panda Conservation Centre in China, and the Chinese government, two giant pandas from China, Shi Shi and Bai Yun, arrived at the San Diego Zoo.

Successful breeding in captivity is an unusually delicate process: Female pandas are in estrus for only 2 or 3 days a year, and otherwise avoid interaction with other pandas. Shi Shi turned out to be a less-than-suitable suitor, though in 1999, Bai Yun gave birth to a healthy female cub conceived through artificial insemination. She was named Hua Mei (pronounced "hwa may"), meaning "China USA," and was the first surviving panda cub born in the U.S. In 2003 the zoo welcomed a new male, Gao Gao (for his lack of mating interest, Shi Shi was returned to Wolong). From the start, the more rambunctious, inquisitive, and alert Gao Gao gave zoo researchers hope that he would get along better with Bai Yun. Indeed, the two mated right after their introduction, and Mei Sheng was born in August 2003.

Giant pandas are related to both bears and raccoons. They are bear-like in shape, with striking black-and-white markings, and have unique front paws that enable them to grasp stalks of bamboo. Bamboo makes up about 95% of their diet, and they eat as much as 84 pounds of food every day. This takes them 10 to 16 hours, so there's a pretty good chance that you'll watch them feeding. Fortunately, the efforts of panda specialists around the globe are starting to pay off: In the last few years, the pregnancy rate of females in captivity has risen, and infant survival has dramatically increased.

Because of the exhibit's enormous popularity and the fact that the pandas are not always on display, the zoo provides a panda-viewing hot line (tel. 888/MY-PANDA). Call before you go.

San Diego Wild Animal Park
Located 34 miles north of San Diego, outside of Escondido, this terrific "zoo of the future" will transport you to the African plains and other faraway landscapes. Originally started as a breeding facility for the San Diego Zoo, the 1,800-acre Wild Animal Park now holds 3,500 animals representing 429 different species. What makes the park unique is that many of the animals roam freely in vast enclosures, allowing giraffes to interact with antelopes, much as they would in Africa. You'll find the largest crash of rhinos at any zoological facility in the world, an exhibit for the endangered California condor, and a mature landscape of exotic vegetation from many corners of the globe. Although the San Diego Zoo may be "world-famous," it is the Wild Animal Park that many visitors celebrate as their favourite.

The central focus is the 5-mile Wgasa Bush Line Railway, a 60-minute monorail ride included in the price of admission. Trains leave every 10 minutes or so from the station, and lines build up by late morning, so make this your first or last attraction of the day (the animals are more active anyway). The monorail passes through areas designated as East Africa, South Africa, Asian Plains, and the Eurasian Waterhole, through swaying grasses and along rocky outcrops.

Other exhibits bring you closer to the animals, like the three self-guided walking tours, which visit various habitats, including the new Lion Camp. Nairobi Village is the commercial hub of the park, but even here animal exhibits are interesting, including the nursery area, where irresistible young 'uns can be seen frolicking, bottle-feeding, and sleeping; a petting station; the lowland gorillas; and the Bee Eater Aviary. There are amphitheatres for a bird show and another featuring elephants, scheduled two or three times daily. Nairobi Village has souvenir stores and several spots for mediocre dining. Visitors should be prepared for sunny, often downright hot weather; it's not unusual for temperatures to be 5°-10° warmer here than in San Diego.

If you want to get up-close-and-personal with the animals, take one of the park's Photo Caravans, which shuttle groups of eight in flatbed trucks out into the open areas that are inaccessible to the general public. Two different itineraries are available, each 1 3/4 hours long, and you'll want to make reservations ahead of your visit (tel. 619/718-3050). The price is $90 per person for one caravan (park admission not included), or $130 for both; children must be at least 8 years old, and ages 8 through 17 must be accompanied by an adult. The new Cheetah Run Safari allows a limited number of guests (reservations required, tel. 619/718-3000) to watch the world's fastest land mammal in action, sprinting after a mechanical lure. Cost is $69 per person, excluding park admission.

San Diego Zoo
More than 4,000 creatures reside at this celebrated, influential zoo, run by the Zoological Society of San Diego. Started in 1916, in the early days the zoo's founder, Dr. Harry Wegeforth, traveled around the world and bartered native Southwestern animals such as rattlesnakes and sea lions for more exotic species. The zoo is also an accredited botanical garden, lavished with more than 700,000 plants; "Dr. Harry" brought home plants from every location where he acquired animals, ensuring what would become the zoo's naturalistic and mature environment.

The zoo is one of only four in the U.S. with giant pandas, and many other rare species live here, including Buerger's tree kangaroos of New Guinea, long-billed kiwis from New Zealand, wild Przewalski's horses from Mongolia, lowland gorillas from Africa, and giant tortoises from the Galapagos. The Zoological Society is involved with animal preservation efforts around the world and has engineered many "firsts" in breeding. The zoo was also a forerunner in creating barless, moated enclosures that allow animals to roam in sophisticated environments resembling their natural ones.

The new Monkey Trails and Forest Tales is the largest, most elaborate habitat in the zoo's history, recreating a wooded forest full of endangered species such as the mandrill monkey, clouded leopard, and pygmy hippopotamus. An elevated trail through the treetops allows for close observation of the primate, bird, and plant life that thrives in the forest canopy. Absolutely Apes showcases orangutans and siamangs of Indonesia; while next door is Gorilla Tropics, where two troops of Western lowland gorillas roam an 8,000-square-foot habitat. The Giant Panda Research Center is not worth the hassle when a long line is in place (lines are shortest first thing in the morning or toward the end of the day). More noteworthy is Ituri Forest, which simulates a central African rainforest with forest buffalos, otters, okapis, and hippos, which are viewed underwater from a glassed-in enclosure; and the Polar Bear Plunge, where you'll find a 2 1/4-acre summer tundra habitat populated by Siberian reindeer, yellow-throated martens, and diving ducks, as well as polar bears. The Children's Zoo features a nursery with baby animals and a petting area where kids can cuddle up to sheep, goats, and the like. There's also a sea lion show at the 3,000-seat amphitheater (easy to skip if you're headed to SeaWorld).

If a lot of walking -- some of it on steep hills -- isn't your passion, a 40-minute Guided Bus Tour provides a narrated overview and covers about 75% of the facility. It costs $10 for adults, $5.50 for children 3 to 11; it's included in the so-called "Best Value" admission package. Since you get only brief glimpses of the enclosures, and animals won't always be visible, you'll want to revisit some areas. Included in the bus ticket is access to the un-narrated Express Bus, which allows you to get on and off at one of five different stops along the same route. You can also get an aerial perspective from the Skyfari, which costs $3 per person each way, though you won't see many creatures. Ideally, take the complete bus tour first thing in the morning, when the animals are more active (waits for the bus tour can top an hour by midday). After the bus tour, take the Skyfari to the far side of the park and wend your way back on foot or by Express Bus to revisit animals you missed.

In addition to several fast-food options, the restaurant Albert's is a beautiful oasis at the lip of a canyon and a lovely place in which to break up the day.

SeaWorld San Diego
One of California's most heavily marketed attractions, SeaWorld is a big draw for a number of visitors coming to San Diego. The aquatic theme park celebrated its 40th year of operation in 2004. With each passing year the educational pretext increasingly takes a back seat to slick shows and rides, but the park -- owned by the Anheuser-Busch Corporation -- is perhaps still the country's premiere showplace for marine life, made politically correct with a nominally informative atmosphere. At its heart, SeaWorld is a shoreside family entertainment centre where the performers are dolphins, otters, sea lions, orcas and seals. The 20-minute shows run several times each throughout the day, with visitors rotating through the various open-air amphitheaters and aquarium features.

Several successive 4-ton black-and-white killer whales have functioned as the park's mascot, and the Shamu Adventure is SeaWorld's most popular show. Performed in a 5,500-seat stadium, the stage is a 7-million-gallon pool lined with Plexiglas walls that magnify the huge performers. But think twice before you sit in the seats down front -- a high point of the act is multiple drenchings of the first 12 or so rows of spectators. Most days, the venue fills before the two or three performances even start, so arrive early to get the seat you want. The slapstick Fools with Tools (sea lions and otters), the fast-paced Dolphin Discovery, and Pets Rule! are other performing animal routines, each in arenas seating more than 2,000. There are also shows focusing on humans: a "4-D" movie; R.L. Stine's Haunted Lighthouse, starring a roster of multi-sensory effects; and in summer, Cirque de la Mer, which features acrobatic acts.

The collection of rides is led by Journey to Atlantis, a 2004 arrival which combines a roller coaster and log flume with Atlantis mythology and a simulated earthquake. Shipwreck Rapids is a splashy adventure on raft like inner tubes through caverns, waterfalls, and wild rivers; and Wild Arctic is a motion simulator helicopter trip to the frozen north. The Skytower and Skyride each cost an additional $3 to ride.

Guests disembarking Wild Arctic (or those using the ride bypass) find themselves in the midst of one of SeaWorld's real specialties: simulated marine environments. In this case it's an arctic research station, surrounded by beautiful beluga whales, walruses, and polar bears. Other animal environments worth seeing are Manatee Rescue, Shark Encounter, and the Penguin Encounter. Each of these attractions exits into a gift shop selling theme merchandise. The 2-acre hands-on area called Shamu's Happy Harbor is designed for kids, and features everything from a pretend pirate ship, with plenty of netted towers, to tube crawls, slides, and chances to get wet.

The Dolphin Interaction Program creates an opportunity for people to meet bottlenose dolphins. Although the program stops short of allowing you to swim with the dolphins, it does offer the opportunity to wade waist-deep, and plenty of time to stroke the mammals and to try giving training commands. This 1-hour program includes some classroom time before you wriggle into a wet suit and climb into the water for 20 minutes with the dolphins. It costs $140 per person (not including park admission); participants must be age 6 or older. One step further is the Trainer for a Day program, which is a 7-hour work shift with an animal trainer. Food preparation, feeding, a training session with a dolphin, and lunch is included; the price is $395 per person. This program is limited to three participants daily, and the minimum age is 13. Advance reservations are required for both programs (tel. 877/436-5746).

Although SeaWorld is best known as the home to pirouetting dolphins and fluke-flinging killer whales, the facility also plays a role in rescuing and rehabilitating beached animals found along the West Coast -- including an average of 200 seals, sea lions, marine birds, and dolphins annually, almost 65% of which are rehabilitated and returned to the wild.


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