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NIGHTLIFE IN NEW YORK CITY

New York's nightlife scene is an embarrassment of riches. There's so much to see and do in this city after the sun goes down that your biggest problem is probably going to be choosing among the many temptations.

For the latest, most comprehensive nightlife listings, from theatre and performing arts to live rock, jazz, and dance club coverage, Time Out New York (www.timeoutny.com) is a popular weekly source; a new issue hits newsstands every Thursday. The free weekly Village Voice (www.villagevoice.com), the city's legendary alterna-paper, is available late Tuesday downtown and early Wednesday in the rest of the city. The arts and entertainment coverage couldn't be more extensive, and just about every live music venue advertises its shows here. The New York Times (www.nytoday.com) features terrific entertainment coverage, particularly in the two-part Friday "Weekend" section. The cabaret, classical music and theatre guides are particularly useful. Other great weekly sources are the New Yorker (www.newyorker.com), in its "Goings on About Town" section; and New York magazine (www.nymetro.com) features the latest happenings in "The Week" section. New York's www.nymetro.com site is an excellent online source.

Barhoppers shouldn't pass up the comprehensive Shecky's New York Bar, Club & Lounge Guide, printed annually. The website (www.sheckys.com) is even more current, as is Shecky's Bar Phone at tel. 212/777-BARS, which offers up-to-the minute nightlife news for the cost of a phone call.

Another good online bar source is www.murphguide.com. This website has all the latest happy hour information and is a particularly good source if you are seeking out an Irish pub, of which there are many in New York.

The Lounge & Bar Scene

Remember: Smoking is prohibited in bars but allowed in outdoor spaces.

Upper East Side
There's also an outpost of the Meat-Packing District Coyote Ugly roadhouse Hogs & Heifers at 1843 First Ave., between 95th and 96th streets (tel. 212/722-8635; subway: 6 to 96th St.). Despite its offshoot status, this one's slightly more laid-back and boasts more genuine saloon style than the original.

Many of the city's best bars suddenly become more affordable from 4 to 8pm or thereabouts, when it's definitely a happy hour if you can snag one of those signature cocktails ($10 martinis, anyone?) at half-price or two-for-one; or maybe there's some free bar food, or another value-saving offer. Happy hour is a great time to experience those pricey places you've heard so much about. For information on happy hour at many of the city's watering holes, check online at www.sheckys.com or Murph's NYC Bar Guide at www.murphguide.com, which is updated daily.

The New York Dive Experience
Not all of New York nightlife means bars and clubs with cover charges, outrageously expensive cocktails, elegant finger food, beautiful people, and velvet ropes to keep you waiting in the cold. There are places here that you should be rewarded for braving; old dark places where the drinks are cheap and the characters colourful. These are the dive bars and they are just as much New York as their hot, trendy counterparts.

Jimmy's Corner, 140 W. 44th St., between Broadway and Sixth Avenue (tel. 212/221-9510). Owned by a former boxing trainer, Jimmy's is a tough guy's joint that has been around for more than 30 years and survived the Disneyfication of Times Square. Pictures of boxers adorn the walls, and the jukebox plays lots of R&B and '70s disco. In the pre-smoking ban days, the smoke would get so thick in Jimmy's you needed night goggles to see through the haze. Beer is cheap and drinks aren't fancy. Skip the theme bars and restaurants in the area and go for an after-theater pop at Jimmy's instead.

Rudy's Bar & Grill, 627 Ninth Avenue, between 44th and 45th streets (tel. 212/974-9169). This Hell's Kitchen establishment is no secret; its happy hour is legendary and the small place is usually packed with slackers sucking up cheap beer, including the house brand, Rudy's Red, a weak watery brew served in a huge plastic cup for $3. Get there before happy hour, grab a seat on one of the few broken banquettes and keep your eyes open for the hot dog guy who gives out free hot dogs. You'll need one to balance out a bucket of Rudy's Red. In the summer, Rudy's opens its cement garden for drinks "alfresco."

Subway Inn, 143 E. 60th Street, at Lexington Avenue (tel. 212/223-9829). The Subway has been around for over 60 years. The red neon sign beckons from outside while inside, no matter what time of day, it's midnight dark. The bartender is ancient and until recently served Schaeffer on tap. The demise of Schaeffer was troubling, but thankfully not much else has changed. The booths are still wobbly and the models of Godzilla and E.T. along with assorted other dusty junk continue to decorate the shelves behind the bar. You might find workers from the upscale stores in the neighbourhood and writers searching for "material" slumming at the Subway, but this joint remains the pinnacle of divedom.

Tap a Keg, 2731 Broadway, between 103rd and 104th streets (tel. 212/749-1734). Tap a Keg calls itself a "Hell of a Joint." And hell can mean two things here: very good fun or a nightmare. That's the happy contradiction of the Tap a Keg and all dives really. There are a few wooden tables and televisions, a great jukebox with jazz, reggae, and R&B, and a very popular pool table. But it's the 7-hour happy hour with pints of beer for about 3 bucks and the regular gathering of wizened, disheveled characters that give the Tap a Keg its well-deserved dive status.

Hotel Bars
A hotel bar should provide comfort and hospitality to the out-of-town visitor; it should be the kind of place where you can unwind after a day seeing the sights, have a leisurely drink before heading out to dinner or a show, or enjoy a quiet nightcap before retiring. Thankfully, New York has plenty of hotel bars that draw outsiders but keep their own guests happy, too.

Bemelmans Bar, in the Carlyle Hotel, 35 E. 76th St., at Madison Avenue (tel. 212/744-1600). It has everything you want from a hotel bar: white-coated service; lush seating with many dark romantic corners to sink into; a nice mix of locals and guests; and incredible cocktails, like the Old Cuban, a mojito topped with champagne, created by mixologist and self-proclaimed cocktail geek Audrey Saunders. The bar is named after children's book illustrator Ludwig Bemelmans, who created the Madeline books after he painted the whimsical mural here.

Bull and Bear, in the Waldorf=Astoria, 301 Park Ave., between 49th and 50th streets (tel. 212/872-4900). The Bull and Bear is like a gentlemen's pub, with brass-studded red leather chairs, a waistcoated staff, and a grand troika-shaped mahogany bar polished to a high sheen at the centre of the room. Still, it's plenty comfy for casual drinkers. Ask Oscar, who's been here for more than 30 years, or one of the other accomplished bartenders to blend you a classic cocktail like The Bronx, a combination of gin, orange juice, and fresh pineapple juice. An ideal place to kick back after a hard day of sightseeing.

King Cole Bar, in the St. Regis, 2 E. 55th St., at Fifth Avenue (tel. 212/744-4300). The birthplace of the Bloody Mary, this theatrical spot may just be New York's most historic hotel bar. The Maxfield Parrish mural alone is worth the price of a classic cocktail (ask the bartender to tell you about the "hidden" meaning of the painting). The one drawback is the bar's small size; after-work hours and holiday times, the bar is jammed.

Mark's Bar, in the Mark, 25 E. 77th St., at Madison Avenue (tel. 212/744-4300). Outfitted like an elegant living room with a romantic flair, Mark's is small but cozy. There's a European feel to the atmosphere, with first-class service and perfectly mixed drinks. The crowd tends to be older and in some ways mysterious. Sophisticated nibbles are also served.

M Bar, in the Mansfield Hotel, 12 W. 44th St., between Fifth and Sixth avenues (tel. 212/944-6050). This library-style lounge more than holds its own on a block where the hotel bar competition is intense; The Oak Room at the Algonquin is just a few doors away, as is the very hip Royalton. M Bar features a lovely circular bar, a first-rate cocktail menu, comfortable seating, and a dark and romantic Art Deco mood.

Oak Room at the Algonquin, in the Algonquin Hotel, 59 W. 44th St., between Fifth and Sixth avenues (tel. 212/840-6800). The splendid oak-paneled lobby of this venerable literati-favoured hotel is the comfiest and most welcoming in the city, made to linger over pre- or post-theatre cocktails. You'll feel the spirit of Dorothy Parker and the legendary Algonquin Round Table that pervades the room. Try the Matilda, a light, refreshing blend of orange juice, Absolut Mandarin, triple sec, and champagne, named after the Algonquin's legendary feline in residence.

Cocktails Alfresco
The outdoor space at rowdy Jeremy's Ale House, 228 Front St. (tel. 212/964-3537; www.jeremysalehouse.com), near the South Street Seaport, is no fairy tale, but it does have one of the best views of the Brooklyn Bridge. Maybe that's because the bar is practically under the Bridge (on the Manhattan side). Jeremy's is so close to the river you may think you smell the sea, but what you are really smelling is an endless supply of calamari and clams sizzling in the deep fryers and gallons of Coors beer, served in 32-ounce Styrofoam cups.

Some of the best outdoor drinking can be found at a few select hotels. The best of the best, way downtown at the southern tip of Manhattan, is the Rise Bar [ST] at the Ritz-Carlton New York, Battery Park, 2 West St., just north of Battery Place (tel. 212/344-0800). Located on the 14th floor of the hotel, the bar boasts incomparable views of Lady Liberty and busy New York Harbor from the massive waterfront terrace.

For the more trendy set, where the eye candy is not just the spectacular views, take the elevator up to the top of the Hotel Gansevoort, 18 Ninth Ave., at 13th Street (tel. 212/206-6700) to Plunge, where the you can gaze out at New Jersey, inhale the chlorine fumes from the hotel's pool (which only guests can use) all the while sipping pricey cocktails. A few blocks north at the Maritime Hotel, 366 W. 17th St., at Ninth Avenue, the scene on the roof at Cabanas (tel. 212/242-4300) is like something out of Hollywood. In fact, you'll probably recognise a few Hollywood denizens sunning themselves with colourful drinks, umbrella stirrers and all, balanced on their abnormally firm abs. Uptown, in the heart of Midtown, the Pen-Top Bar at the classic "grand dame," the Peninsula Hotel, 700 Fifth Ave., at 55th Street (tel. 212/956-2888), offers views of the glittering neighbouring spires and the bustle of Fifth Avenue below that are not only calming, but romantic if that is actually possible.

The Club & Music Scene

The noise of honking horns, car alarms, and sirens are not the only sounds you will hear in your travels around Manhattan. Music is everywhere. In the warm weather, a trumpet player or violinist will set up at a busy corner and play for hours. In the winter musicians head into subway stations, where, legally, they are not allowed to play, but I've rarely seen the law enforced. Many are very good, while others, well, are just trying to make a few bucks. Some of the very good ones, who actually audition for the opportunity, perform under a program sponsored by the New York Metropolitan Transit Authority (MTA) called "Music Under New York." If selected, they can perform legally at designated subway stations, including Times Square/42nd Street, 34th Street/Sixth Avenue, 14th Street/Union Square, and 59th Street/Columbus Circle. In the summer, there is a Music Under New York festival at Grand Central Station and Bowling Green Park. The variety of music is amazing and the quality as good as you might see at some of New York's clubs. So take a few moments before boarding your train and listen to the music. For more information, visit the MTA website (www.mta.nyc.ny.us/mta/aft/muny.htm).

Cabaret
An evening spent at a sophisticated cabaret just might be the quintessential New York night on the town. It isn't cheap: Covers can range from $10 to $60, depending on the showroom and the act, and also require two-drink or dinner-check minimums. Always reserve ahead, and get the complete lowdown when you do.

Be aware that a night at a top-flight jazz club can be expensive. Cover charges can vary dramatically -- from as little as $10 to as high as $65, depending on who's taking the stage -- and there is likely to be an additional two-drink minimum (or a dinner requirement, if you choose an early show). Call ahead so you know what you're getting into; reservations are also an excellent idea at top spots.

Rock Clubs
Live music at rock clubs usually begins around 9pm, but check individual venues for up-to-date starting times and prices.

In addition, rock fans on the hunt for diamonds in the rough might also want to see what's on at folk rock's legendary Bitter End, 147 Bleecker St., between Thompson and LaGuardia streets in the heart of the Village (tel. 212/673-7030; www.bitterend.com).

Jazz,Blues, Latin & World Music
For those of you who like your jazz with an edge, see what's on at The Knitting Factory. Swingsters should consider Swing 46. Weekends at Carnegie Club are ideal for Sinatra fans looking to relive the moment.

Despite its name, B.B. King Blues Club & Grill extends well beyond the blues genre to embrace over-the-hill acts of just about any ilk, from Morris Day and the Time to Blue Oyster Cult. Still, the venerable bluesman does take the stage from time to time, so you might want to see what's on.

You might also consider Jazz at the Kitano, in the mezzanine of the Kitano Hotel, 66 Park Ave., at 38th Street (tel. 212/885-7119; www.kitano.com), for some first-rate jazz in a casual, comfortable setting. The Kitchen, 512 W. 19th St., between Tenth and Eleventh avenues (tel. 212/255-5793; www.thekitchen.org), has a full slate of live music and performance art. In association with the 92nd Street Y, Makor offers a similarly eclectic mix, as does Joe's Pub , which adds a cabaret spin.

There's also world-beat jazz every Friday and Saturday from 5 to 8pm in the rotunda at the Guggenheim Museum. And don't forget Jazz at Lincoln Center, the nation's premier forum for the traditional and developing jazz canon.

Dance Clubs
Nothing in New York nightlife is as mutable as the club scene. In this world, hot spots don't even get 15 minutes of fame -- their time in the limelight is usually more like a commercial break.

"Clubs" as actual, physical spaces don't mean much anymore. The hungry-for-nightlife crowd now follows events of certain party "producers" who switch venues and times each week.

The tracking game is best left to the perennial party crowd who know the rest of the crowd as well as the guy at the door (who lets them in for free) and someone at the bar (who comps them drinks). You're not likely to get that well connected in your week of vacation. Just find someplace that amuses you, and enjoy the crowd that enjoys it with you.

No matter what, always call ahead, because schedules change constantly and can do so at the last minute. Even better: You also may be able to put your name on a guest list that will save you a few bucks at the door.

New York nightlife starts late. With the exception of places that have scheduled performances, clubs stay almost empty until about 11pm. Don't depend on plastic -- bring cash, and plan on dropping a wad at most places. Cover charges run anywhere from $7 to $30, and often get more expensive as the night wears on.

The Performing Arts

While Broadway is the Big Apple's greatest hit, many other performing arts also flourish in this culturally rich and entertainment-hungry town.

Tickets for events at all larger theatres as well as at Hammerstein Ballroom, Roseland, Irving Plaza, B.B. King's, and S.O.B.'s can be purchased through Ticketmaster (tel. 212/307-7171; www.ticketmaster.com).

Advance tickets for an increasing number of shows at smaller venues -- including CBGB, Bowery Ballroom, Mercury Lounge, and Village Underground -- can be purchased through Ticketweb (tel. 866/468-7619; www.ticketweb.com). Do note, however, that Ticketweb can sell out in advance of actual ticket availability. Just because Ticketweb doesn't have tickets left for an event doesn't mean it's completely sold out, so be sure to check with the venue directly.

Most seats at New York Philharmonic performances are sold to subscribers, with just a few left for the rest of us. But there are still ways to get tickets. Periodically, a number of same-day orchestra tickets are made available at the Philharmonic, and sold first thing in the morning for $25 a pop (two-ticket maximum). They usually go on sale at 10am weekdays, 1pm Saturday (noon if there's a matinee). And when subscribers can't attend, they may turn their tickets back to the theatres, which then resell them at the last moment. These can be in the most coveted rows of the orchestra. Ticket holders can donate unwanted tickets until curtain time, so tickets that are not available first thing in the morning may become available later in the day. The hopeful form "cancellation lines" 2 hours or more before curtain time for a crack at returned tickets on a first-come, first-served basis. Senior/student/disability rush tickets may be available for $10 (two-ticket max) on concert day, but never at Friday matinees or Saturday evening performances. To check availability for any of these programs at all performances, call Audience Services at tel. 212/875-5656 before you head to the box office.

Note that Lincoln Center's Alice Tully Hall (where the Chamber Music Society performs and other concerts are held), the Metropolitan Opera, the New York City Opera, and Carnegie Hall offer similar last-minute and discount programs (the New York City Ballet offers Student Rush tickets only). It makes sense to call the box office first to check on same-day availability before heading to the theatre -- or, if you're willing to risk coming away empty-handed, be there at opening time for first crack.

Dance
In general, dance seasons run September through February and then March through June, but there's almost always something going on. Some of the venues to keep in mind are the Brooklyn Academy of Music, the 92nd Street Y, Radio City Music Hall, and Town Hall. For particularly innovative works, see what's on at the Dance Theater Workshop, in the Bessie Schönberg Theater, 219 W. 19th St., between Seventh and Eighth avenues (tel. 212/691-6500 or 212/924-0077; www.dtw.org), a first-rate launching pad for nearly a quarter-century.

In addition to regular appearances at City Center, the American Ballet Theatre (www.abt.org) takes up residence at Lincoln Center's Metropolitan Opera House (tel. 212/477-3030) for 8 weeks each spring. The same venue also hosts such visiting companies as the Kirov, Royal and Paris Opéra ballets.

The weekly Time Out New York, available on news stands around town, maintains a section dedicated to dance events around town that's an invaluable resource to fans.

Opera
New York has grown into one of the world's major opera centres. The season generally runs September through May, but there's usually something going on at any time of year.

Theatre
Nobody does theatre better than New York. No other city -- not even London -- has a theatre scene with so much breadth and depth, with so many wide-open alternatives. Broadway, of course, gets the most ink and the most airplay, and deservedly so. It's where you'll find the big stage productions, from crowd-pleasing warhorses like The Lion King to phenomenally successful shows like The Producers. But today's scene is thriving beyond the bounds of just Broadway -- smaller, "alternative" theatre has taken hold of the popular imagination, too. With bankable stars on stage, crowds lining up for hot tickets, and hits popular enough to generate major-label cast albums, Off-Broadway isn't just for culture vultures anymore.

When you want a spectacle, there's no place like Broadway: For helicopters, dozens of tap dancing chorines, and collapsing chandeliers, Broadway is your ticket (and a very high-priced one it is, too!). But you can see some amazing work at prices ranging from just-below-Broadway to less than $20 if you know where to look. For Off-Broadway, expect to pay $20 to $60 or so for tickets; Off-Off-Broadway rarely charges more than $20, and you can sometimes get in for $12 or less (so you don't feel quite as bad leaving at intermission if the show's a stinker!).

Where do you find the hidden gems? The Village Voice (which sponsors the annual Obies, or Off-Broadway Awards) is a good source. Timeout New York has excellent listings and capsule descriptions for major Off-Broadway productions. For Off-Off-Broadway, check the reviews on Theatermania.com (which also lets you purchase tickets and offers regular discounts) and the Off-Off Broadway Review (www.oobr.com), which also gives awards to the best productions each season.

Three resident theatres in New York -- Lincoln Center Theater, the Roundabout Theatre, and Manhattan Theatre Club (www.mtc-nyc.org) -- present work in Broadway houses, as well as in smaller venues Off-Broadway. You'll pay Broadway prices for the best seats in the big houses, but you can also usually find special, lower prices for students or seniors; or last-minute rush tickets. In their smaller spaces (MTC's Stage II; the Roundabout's Laura Pels Theatre; Lincoln Center's Mitzi Newhouse) you can find good seats for less than $50 to see new plays and revivals by the likes of Terence McNally and John Patrick Shanley. These theatre often offer extra events like play readings, "talkbacks" with the cast and production team, and so on -- sometimes free, sometimes for a small charge. Following are a few other notable Off-Broadway venues, but really, these are just the tip of the iceberg; check out the sources listed above for many, many more options.

Joseph Papp Public Theater, 425 Lafayette St. (tel. 212/539-8900; www.publictheater.org). Legendary among Off-Broadway theatres, this is the legacy of the late visionary theatre producer Joseph Papp. Now under the direction of George C. Wolfe, the Public always draws top talent to the stage with its groundbreaking stagings of Shakespeare's plays as well as new plays, classical dramas and solo performances. The Public also produces Broadway shows rather regularly, such as Bring in 'Da Noise, Bring in 'Da Funk, and hosts New York's best annual alfresco event, Shakespeare in the Park, each summer. If that's not enough, it's also home to Joe's Pub.

Atlantic Theater Company, 336 W. 20th St. (tel. 212/645-8015; www.atlantictheater.com), "produces great plays simply and truthfully, utilising an artistic ensemble," according to its mission statement. It has recently presented new work by Woody Allen, David Mamet, and Tina Howe's Ionesco translations. It also accepts volunteer ushers.

Signature Theatre Company, 555 W. 42nd St. (tel. 212/244-PLAY; www.signaturetheatre.org), presents season-long explorations of a living playwright's body of work. You can also volunteer usher here.

New York Theater Workshop (NYTW), 79 E. 4th St. (tel. 212/460-5475; www.nytw.org), has been around since 1979, but it was Rent (and later, Dirty Blonde) that put it on the map. NYTW specialises in new work, rethought revivals, and collaborations. All Sunday evening performances are $20; there are discounts for students and opportunities to usher.

Keen Company, 520 Eighth Ave. (tel. 212/216-0963; www.keencompany.org) has a mandate to produce "sincere plays" under the direction of Artistic Director Carl Forsman, who has an eye for old pieces that gleam anew with a heartfelt production.

The Gay & Lesbian Scene

To get a thorough, up-to-date take on what's happening in gay and lesbian nightlife, pick up copies of HX (www.hx.com), the New York Blade (www.nyblade.com), or Next. They're available for free in bars and clubs all around town or at the Lesbian and Gay Community Center, at 208 W. 13th St., between Seventh and Eighth avenues (tel. 212/620-7310; www.gaycenter.org). The interdisciplinary weekly Time Out New York boasts a terrific gay and lesbian section that some consider to be the city's best source; another great source is the legendary free weekly Village Voice. Always remember that asking people in one bar can lead you to discover another that fits your tastes.

These days, many bars, clubs, cabarets and cocktail lounges are neither gay nor straight but a bit of both, either catering to a mixed crowd or to varying orientations on different nights of the week.


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