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SHOPPING IN HAWAII (THE BIG ISLAND)

While chefs and farmers tout this island as fertile ground for crops and food, artists point to its primal, volcanic energy as a boost to their creative endeavors. Art communities and galleries are sprinkled across the Big Island, in villages like Holualoa and Volcano, where fine works in pottery, wood-turning, handmade glass, and other two- and three-dimensional media are sold in serene settings.

Although the visual arts are flourishing on this island, the line between shop and gallery can often be too fine to determine. Too many self-proclaimed "galleries" sell schlock or a mixture of arts, crafts, and tacky souvenirs. T-shirts and Kona coffee mugs are a souvenir staple in many so-called galleries.

The galleries and shops in Hawaii offer a broad mix in many media. Items for the home, jewelry and accessories, vintage Hawaiiana, and accouterments at various prices and for various tastes can make great gifts to go, as can locally made food products such as preserves, cookies, flowers, Kona coffee, and macadamia nuts. You'll find that bowls made of rare native woods such as koa are especially abundant on the Big Island. This is an area in which politics and art intersect: Although reforestation efforts are underway to plant new koa trees, the decline of old-growth forests is causing many artists to turn to equally beautiful and more environmentally sensitive, alternative woods.

The Kona Coast

In & Around Kailua-Kona
Kailua-Kona's shopping prospects pour out into the streets in a festival atmosphere of T-shirts, trinkets and dime-a-dozen souvenirs, with Alii Drive at the centre of this activity. But the Coconut Grove Market Place, on Alii Drive, across the street from the seawall, has changed that image and added some great new shops around a sand volleyball court. Next door in the Alii Sunset Plaza, next to Hard Rock Cafe, beaders can make a beeline for Kona Beads (tel. 808/331-2161) to peruse a dizzying collection of beads from all over the world.

Shopping stalwarts in Kona are the Kona Square, across from King Kamehameha's Kona Beach Hotel; the hotel's shopping mall, with close to two dozen shops; and the Kona Inn Shopping Village, on Alii Drive. All include the usual assortment of T-shirt shops. One highlight is Alii Gardens Marketplace at the southern end of Kailua-Kona, a pleasant, tented outdoor marketplace with fresh fruit, flowers, imports, local crafts and a wonderful selection of orchid plants. There's cheesy stuff there, too, but somehow it's less noticeable outdoors.

Art Appreciation -- The finest art on the Kona Coast hangs in, of all places, a bank. Award-winning First Hawaiian Bank, 74-5593 Palani Rd. (tel. 808/329-2461), has art lovers making special trips to view Hiroki Morinoue's mural, John Buck's prints, Chiu Leong's ceramic sculpture, Franco Salmoiraghi's photographs, Setsuko Morinoue's abstract fiber wall piece and other works that were incorporated as part of the bank's design, rather than added on as an afterthought. Artists Yvonne Cheng and Sharon Carter Smith, whose works are included, assembled this exhibition, a sterling example of corporate sponsorship of the arts.

Edibles & Everyday Things -- The Big Island's green markets are notable for the quality of produce and the abundance of island specialties at better-than-usual prices. Look for the cheerful green kiosks of the Alii Gardens Marketplace, 75-6129 Alii Dr. (at the south end), where local farmers and artists set up their wares daily from 8am to 5pm. This is not your garden-variety marketplace; some vendors are permanent, some drive over from Hilo, and the owners have planted shade trees and foliage to make the 5-acre plot a Kona landmark. There are 40 to 50 vendors on any given day, selling jewelry, woodcrafts, produce, macadamia nuts, orchids, and -- my favorite -- the fresh juices of Kay Reeves, owner of Wau, who gets up before dawn to make her sensational fresh lilikoi and lime juices. Kona Blue Sky Coffee is also here, as is Lynn Cappell, a fine painter of island landscapes, and Laura de Rosa's sensational A'ala Dreams lotions and oils.

From 8am to 3pm on Wednesday and Saturday, look for the loosely assembled tarps of the Farmers Market in Kaiwi Square, in the old industrial area in Kona, corner of Kaiwi and Luhia streets. (Go as early as possible to avoid the heat.) Local farmers sell organic corn and tomatoes, anthuriums and other tropicals of every hue, a range of home-grown fruit, and macadamia nuts. It's a great way to sample the region's specialties, some of which also make affordable souvenirs.

Java junkies jump-start their day at Island Lava Java (tel. 808/327-2161), the hot new magnet for coffee lovers at the Coconut Grove Market Place, on Alii Drive. At the other end of Kailua-Kona, the handmade candies of the Kailua Candy Company (tel. 808/329-2522, or 800/622-2462 for orders) also beckon, especially the macadamia-nut clusters with ground ginger or the legendary macadamia-nut honu (turtle). Other products include truffles, pure Kona coffee, shortbread cookies, toffee, T-shirts, mugs, mustards and other gift items.

Kona Wine Market, in the King Kamehameha Mall (tel. 808/329-9400), has a noteworthy selection, including some esoteric vintages, at prices you'll love. This is a wine lover's store, with selections from California, Europe, and points beyond, as well as gift baskets, cheeses, cigars, oils and vinegars, specialty pastas and condiments, Riedel glassware, and friendly, knowledgeable service.

For everyday grocery needs, KTA Stores (in the Kona Coast Shopping Center, at Palani Rd. and the Queen Kaahumanu Hwy., and in the Keauhou Shopping Village, on Alii Dr.) are always my first choice. Through its Mountain Apple brand, KTA sells hundreds of top-notch local products -- from Kona smoked marlin and Hilo-grown rainbow trout to cookies, breads, jams and jellies, taro chips, and kulolo, the decadently dense taro-coconut steamed pudding -- by dozens of local vendors. The fresh-fish department is always an adventure; if anything esoteric is running, such as the flashy red aweoweo, it's sure to be on KTA's counters, along with a large spread of prepared foods for sunset picnics and barbecues.

Upcountry Kona: Holualoa
Charming Holualoa, 1,400 feet and 10 minutes above Kailua-Kona at the top of Hualalai Road, is a place for strong espresso, leisurely gallery hopping, and nostalgic explorations across several cultural and time zones. One narrow road takes you across generations and cultures.

Paul's Place is Holualoa's only all-purpose general store, a time warp tucked between frame shops, galleries, and studios.

Prominent Holualoa artists include the jewelry maker/sculptor Sam Rosen, who years ago set the pace for found-object art and today makes beautiful pieces at the rear of Chestnut Gallery; the furniture maker and wood sculptor Gerald Ben; the printmaker Nora Yamanoha; the glass artist Wilfred Yamazawa; the sculptor Cal Hashimoto; and Hiroki and Setsuko Morinoue of Studio 7 gallery. All galleries listed are on the main street, Mamalahoa Highway, and all are within walking distance of each other.

South Kona

In Kealakekua, the Kamigaki Market, on Highway 11, also called Mamalahoa Highway, is a reliable source of food items, especially for regional specialties such as macadamia nuts and Kona coffee.

In Honaunau, farther south, keep an eye out for the Bong Brothers Store, on Highway 11, and its eye-catching selections of fresh local fruit -- from cherimoya (in season) to star fruit and white Sugarloaf pineapples. The Bongs are known for their deli items, produce, and Kona coffee fresh from their own roasting room, but I think their black, very hip Bong Brothers and Bong Sistah T-shirts are the find of the region and season. The juice bar offers homemade soups and smoothies made with fresh local fruit.

In the town of Captain Cook, look for the big BANANA BREAD sign (you can't miss it) across the street from the fire station on Highway 11 and you'll come across the Captain Cook Baking Company, which bakes excellent banana bread with macadamia nuts, under the "Auntie Helen's" label. The bread is made with Big Island bananas and macadamia-nut honey, and baked right there in the kitchen. This bakery-sandwich shop also sells Lilikoi Gold passion butter, cheesecake-brownies, and submarine sandwiches on its own house-made breads.

The Kohala Coast

Shops on the Kohala Coast are concentrated in and around the resorts.

Hilton Waikoloa Village
Among the hotel's shops, Sandal Tree carries footwear with style and kick: Italian sandals at non-Italian prices, designer pumps, and other footwear to carry you from dockside to dance floor.

Kings' Shops
These stores are located near the Hilton. A recent find here is Walking in Paradise (tel. 808/886-2600). The footwear -- much of it made in France (Mephisto, Arche) -- can be expensive, but it's worthwhile for anyone seeking comfort while exploring the harsh lava terrain of this island or the pedestrian culture of Kailua's Alii Drive. Toward the mauka (mountainside) end is Noa Noa, filled with exotic artifacts from Java and Borneo and tropical clothing for easygoing life on the Pacific Rim. At Under the Koa Tree, some of the island's finest artists display their prints, woodcrafts, and paintings. For snacks, ice, sunscreen, wine, postcards, newspapers, and everyday essentials, there's the Whalers General Store, and for dining on the run, a small Food Court with pizza, plate lunches, and the Wild Boar Juice & Java bar for fresh-pressed carrot/ginger juice or a steaming cup of brew.

Hualalai Resort
Ka'upulehu Store, in the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, is a perfect blend of high quality and cultural integrity. Located within the award-winning Ka'upulehu Cultural Center, the store carries items made in Hawaii: handmade paper, hand-painted silks, seed leis, greeting cards, koa bowls, wreaths, John Kelly prints, and a selection of Hawaii-themed books. Hualalai Sports Club and Spa, in the same resort, has a winning retail section of beauty, aromatherapy, and treatment products, including Hana Nai'a Aromatherapy Products. The products include mango and jasmine perfumes, Bulgarian rose water, and herbal lotions and potions.

Mauna Lani Resort
In The Fairmont Orchid, at Spa Without Walls, the finest European beauty treatments, a well-trained staff, and products using seaweeds, salts, herbs, and essential oils make it hard to resist the spa's refined allure.

Art Appreciation -- The Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, 62-100 Mauna Kea Beach Dr. (tel. 808/882-7222), is home to one of the world's most impressive collections of Asian and Oceanic art. It's displayed unpretentiously, in public and private spaces. Laurance Rockefeller planned his resort so that the art would be integrated into the environment. The result is a spiritually and aesthetically uplifting view in every direction. A 7th-century granite Buddha is the oldest work in a collection that incorporates art from China, Japan, India, Southeast Asia, and Polynesia, including Hawaii. The Lloyd Sexton Gallery and John Young paintings throughout the hotel reflect Rockefeller's commitment to the finest.

Waimea

Waimea is lei country as well as the island's breadbasket, so look for protea, vegetables, vine-ripened tomatoes, and tuberose stalks here at reasonable prices. Mainstays include Honopua Farm and Hufford's Farm, side by side, selling freshly-cut flowers and organic vegetables. You'll find Marie McDonald, one of Hawaii's premier lei makers, at the booth. (If you want one of her designer Waimea leis, you have to order ahead; call tel. 808/885-4148.) Also here is Bernice Berdon, considered the best maker of akulikuli leis, a Waimea signature that comes in yellows, oranges, and fuchsias. If you're here around Christmas, you'll find phenomenal protea wreaths.

Small and sublime, the Waimea Farmers Market, Highway 19, at mile marker 55 on the Hamakua side of Waimea town (on the lawn in front of the Department of Hawaiian Home Lands, West Hawaii office), draws a loyal crowd from 7am to noon on Saturday.

At the other end of Waimea, the Parker School Farmers Market, held Saturday from 7:30am to noon, is smaller and more subdued, but with choice items as well. The Kalopa macadamia nuts are the sweetest and tastiest I've ever had. Hilo's wonderful Dan De Luz Woods has a branch at 64-1013 Mamalahoa Hwy., in front of the True Value hardware store.

Other shops in Waimea range from the small roadside storefronts lining Highway 19 and Highway 190, which intersect in the middle of town, to complexes such as Waimea Center, where you'll find the trusty old KTA Super Store, the one-stop shop for all your basic necessities, plus a glorious profusion of interesting local foods.

Cook's Discoveries, at a prominent corner on the Hamakua side of town, is better than ever. With its upscale galleries and shops, Parker Square will likely be your most rewarding stop.

Honokaa

Mamane Street Bakery, on the main drag (45-3625 Mamane St.; tel. 808/775-9478), will fill all your coffee-shop needs. Fresh-baked breads, pies, and pastries (including melt-in-your-mouth danishes) are served with good coffee in a tiny cafe lined with old photographs.

Hilo

Shopping in Hilo is centred on the Kaiko'o Hilo Mall, 777 Kilauea Ave., near the state and county buildings; the Prince Kuhio Shopping Plaza, 111 E. Puainako, just off Highway 11 on the road north to Volcano, where you'll find a supermarket, drugstore, Macy's, and other standards; the Bayfront area downtown, where the hippest new businesses have taken up residence in the historic buildings lining Kamehameha Avenue; and the new Waiakea Plaza, where the big-box retailers (Ross, Office Max, Borders, Wal-Mart) have moved in. For practical needs, there's a KTA Super Store at 323 Keawe St. and another at 50 E. Puainako St.

A Special Arts Center & Gallery -- Part gallery, part retail store, and part consortium of the arts, the East Hawaii Cultural Center, 141 Kalakaua St., across from Kalakaua Park (tel. 808/961-5711), is run by volunteers in the visual and performing arts. Keep it in mind for gifts of Hawaii, or if you have any questions regarding the Hawaii Concert Society, Hilo Community Players, Big Island Dance Council, or Big Island Art Guild. The art gallery and gift shop exhibit locally made cards, jewelry, handmade books, sculptures, and wood objects, including museum-quality works.

Studio Visits -- The airy Volcano studio/showroom of Phan Barker (tel. 808/985-8636), an international artist, is a mountain idyll and splendid backdrop for her art, which includes batik paintings on silk, acrylic painting on wood, oil on paper, dye on paper, and mixed media sculptures. Her work has been exhibited in galleries and museums ranging from the Smithsonian to Saigon. In addition to studio visits (by appointment only), she also offers beginner classes in silk painting and drawing.

Adding to the vitality of the Volcano arts environment are the studio visits offered by the Volcano Village Art Studios. Several respected artists in various media open their studios to the public by appointment. Artists in the hui include Ira Ono (tel. 808/967-7261), who makes masks, water containers, fountains, paste-paper journals, garden vessels, and goddesses out of clay and found objects; Pam Barton (tel. 808/967-7247), who transforms vines, leaves, roots, bark, and tree sheddings into stunning fiber sculptures and vessels, from baskets to handmade paper and books; raku and jewelry artist Zeke Israel (tel. 808/965-8820); and sculptor Randy Takaki (tel. 808/985-8756), who works in wood, metal, and ceramics.


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