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Greece Information · Joined: 21 Oct 2006 Posts: 17 Home Country: greece

GETTING AROUND IN GREECE

AIR

Compared to the cheaper classes on ships and ferries, air travel within Greece can be expensive, but it's recommended for those pressed for time and/or heading for more distant destinations (even if the planes don't always hold strictly to their schedules). Until the late 1990s, Olympic Airways (tel. 210/966-6666; www.olympicairlines.com) maintained a monopoly on domestic air travel and thus had little incentive to improve service. In the end, it declared bankruptcy and was placed under new management, which has steadily improved service. Better computerized booking has reduced the number of last-minute discoveries that you don't have a seat. Delayed flights are still common, although the quality of the service, which was criticized for some years, is reportedly better. (Olympic's domestic flight attendants tend to be more helpful than their international counterparts.) Also, Olympic has one of the best safety records of any major airline.

Olympic Airways has a number of offices in Athens, though most travel agents sell tickets as well. It offers mainland service to Aktaion Preveza, Alexandroupolis, Ioannina, Kalamata, Kavala, Kastoria, Kozani, and Thessaloniki. As for islands, Olympic services Astipalea; Corfu (aka Kerkira); Iraklion, Chania, and Sitia, Crete; Hios (aka Chios); Ikaria; Karpathos; Kassos; Kastellorizo; Kefalonia; Kos; Kithira; Leros; Limnos; Milos; Mykonos; Mitilini (aka Lesvos); Naxos; Paros; Rhodes; Samos; Santorini (aka Thira); Skiathos; Skyros; Siros; and Zakinthos. All of Olympic's domestic flights leave from the new international airport at Spata. Most flights are to or from Athens, although during the summer there may be some inter-island service. The baggage allowance is 15 kilos (33 lb.) per passenger, except with a connecting international flight; even the domestic flights generally ignore the weight limit unless you are way over. Smoking is prohibited on all domestic flights.

A round-trip ticket costs double the one-way fare. Sample round-trip fares (including taxes) at this writing are: Athens-Corfu, Rhodes, Thessaloniki, 220€; Athens-Iraklion, Chania, 204€; Athens-Ioannina, 196€; Athens-Santorini, 202€; Athens-Mykonos, 190€ ($247); Athens-Samos, 160€; Athens-Skiathos, 107€; Athens-Syros, 141€. As you can see, even the shorter trips, such as to Mykonos or Santorini, are not especially cheap, but there's no denying that for those with limited time, air travel is the best way to go. Ask, too, if Olympic still offers reduced fares for trips Monday through Thursday and trips that include a Saturday-night stay.

Over the years, several small private airlines have tried to compete with Olympic, but only one has survived to provide a real alternative: Aegean Airlines. From abroad, dial the code for Greece, then tel. 210/626-1000; within Greece, dial tel. 801/112-0000. You can also check www.aegeanair.com, which allows you to order e-tickets online. They offer service at somewhat reduced prices between Athens and the major destinations in Greece, including Alexandroupolis, Chania, Chios, Corfu, Ioannina, Iraklion, Kavala, Kos Mitilini, Mykonos, Patras, Rhodes, Santorini, and Thessaloniki. (They also offer direct flights to Rome, Milan, several major German cities, and Cyprus.) Foreign travel agents may not be aware of Aegean Airlines, so check out their website. People who have been flying Aegean report being extremely satisfied with the airline's service, which they found reliable, safe, and hospitable.

Note: Most Greek domestic tickets are nonrefundable, and changing your flight can cost you up to 30% within 24 hours of departure and 50% within 12 hours.

RAIL

Greek trains are generally slow but are inexpensive and fairly pleasant. The Hellenic State Railway (OSE) also offers bus service from stations adjacent to major train terminals. (Bus service is faster, but second-class train fare is nearly 50% cheaper, and trains offer more comfortable and scenic rides.) If you are interested in special arrangements involving rail passes for Greece (sometimes in combination with Olympic Airlines flights within Greece), check out www.raileurope.com

For information and tickets in Athens, visit the OSE office at 1-3 Karolou (tel. 210/522-4563), or at 6 Sina (tel. 210/362-4402), both near Omonia Square.

Purchase your ticket and reserve a seat ahead of time, as a 50% surcharge is added to tickets purchased on the train, and some lines are packed, especially in summer. A first-class ticket may be worth the extra cost, as seats are more comfortable and less crowded. There is sleeper service on the Athens-Thessaloniki run. Though the costly sleepers are a good value, you must be prepared to share a compartment with three to five others. Express service (6 hr.) runs twice a day, at 7am and 1pm.

Trains to Northern Greece (Alexandropolis, Florina, Kalambaka, Lamia, Larissa, Thessaloniki, Volos, and other towns) leave from the Larissa station (Stathmos Larissis). Trains to the Peloponnese (Argos, Corinth, Patras) leave from the Peloponnese station (Stathmos Peloponnisou). Take trolley no. 1 or 5 from Syntagma Square to either station.

The Peloponnese circuit from Corinth to Patras, Pirgos (near Olympia), Tripolis, and Argos is one way to experience this scenic region, though the Athens-Patras stretch is often crowded. The spectacular spur between Diakofto and Kalavrita is particularly recommended for train enthusiasts.

BUS

Public buses are inexpensive but often overcrowded. Local bus lines vary from place to place, but on most islands the bus stop is in a central location with a posted schedule. Destinations are usually displayed on the front of the bus, but you might have to ask. The conductor will collect your fare after departure.

Note that in Athens and other large cities, a bus ticket must be purchased before and validated after boarding. Kiosks usually offer bus tickets as well as schedules. Tickets cost about 0.5€.

Note: Save your ticket in case an "inspector" comes aboard. If you don't have a ticket, the fine can be 20€.

Greece has an extensive long-distance bus service (KTEL), an association of regional operators with green-and-yellow buses that leave from convenient central stations. For information about the long-distance-bus offices, contact the KTEL office in Athens (tel. 210/512-4910).

In Athens, most buses heading to destinations within Attica leave from the Mavromate terminal, north of the National Archaeological Museum. Most buses to Central Greece leave from 260 Liossion, 5km (3 miles) north of Omonia Square (take local bus no. 024 from Leoforos Amalias in front of the entrance to the National Garden and tell the driver your destination). Most buses to the Peloponnese, Western, and Northern Greece leave from the long-distance bus terminal at 100 Kifissou, 4km (2 1/2 miles) northeast of Omonia Square. To get to the long-distance bus terminal, take local bus no. 051 from the stop located 2 blocks west of Omonia, near the big church of Ayios Konstandinos, at Zinonos and Menandrou.

Express buses between major cities, usually air-conditioned, can be booked through travel agencies. Make sure that your destination is understood -- you wouldn't be the first to see a bit more of Greece than bargained for -- and determine the bus's schedule and comforts before purchasing your ticket. Many buses are not air-conditioned, take torturous routes, and make frequent stops. (NO SMOKING signs are generally disregarded by drivers and conductors, as well as by many older male passengers.)

Note: There has been complaints that some bus groups are so large they feel removed from the leader; inquire about group size if this concerns you.

CAR

Driving in Greece is a bit of an adventure, but it's the best way to see the country at your own pace.

Note: Greece has one of the highest accident rates in Europe, probably due somewhat to treacherous roads, mountain terrain, and poor maintenance of older cars as much as to reckless driving -- although Greeks are certainly aggressive drivers.

Athens is a particularly intimidating place in which to drive at first, and parking spaces are practically nonexistent in the center of town. (Main routes in and out of cities are sometimes signed by white arrows on blue markers.) Several of the major cities are linked by modern expressways with tolls; the toll for Athens to Thessaloniki, for instance, is expected to go up to 30€. Accidents must be reported to the police for insurance claims.

The Greek Automobile Touring Club (ELPA), 395 Mesoyion, 11527 Athens (tel. 210/779-1615), with offices in most cities, can help you with all matters relating to your car, issue International Driver's Licenses, and provide maps and information (tel. 174, 24 hr. daily). ELPA's emergency road service number is tel. 104. Though the service provided by the able ELPA mechanics is free for light repairs, definitely give a generous tip.

The price of gasoline fluctuates considerably from week to week and from service station to service station, but it remains consistently expensive: 0.90€ a liter. There is no shortage of gasoline stations in all cities, good-size towns, and major tourist centers, but if you are setting off for an excursion into one of the more remote mountain areas or to an isolated beach, yes, fill up on gas before setting out.

Car Rentals

There are many rental cars, and almost as much variation in prices. Many cars have a standard shift; if you must have an automatic, make sure in advance that one is available. You are strongly advised to make your reservation before leaving home and well in advance. Always ask if the quoted price includes insurance; many credit cards make the collision-damage waiver unnecessary, but you will find that most rental agencies automatically include this in their rates. You can sometimes save by booking at home before you leave; this is especially advisable in summer. If you are shopping around, let the agents see the number of competitors' brochures you're carrying.

Most companies require that the renter be at least 21 years old (25 for some car models). An occasional company won't rent to anyone older than 70 or 75. Definitely inquire beforehand! You must possess a valid Australian, Canadian, E.U.-nation, U.S., or International Driver's License. You must also have a major credit card (or be prepared to leave a large cash deposit).

The major car rental companies in Athens are Avis (tel. 210/322-4951), Budget (tel. 210/349-8700), Hertz (tel. 210/922-0102), National (tel. 210/349-3400), and AutoEurope (tel. 00800/11574-0300 toll-free from Greece), all with additional offices in major cities, at most airports, and on most islands. Smaller local companies usually have lower rates, but their vehicles are often older and not as well maintained. If you prefer to combine your car rental with your other travel arrangements, we recommend Galaxy Travel, 35 Voulis, near Syntagma Square (tel. 210/322-2091; www.galaxytravel.gr). It's open Monday through Saturday during the tourist season.

Rental rates vary widely -- definitely inquire around. In high season, the cheaper daily rates will be about 55€ for a compact and 100€ for a full-size; weekly rates might run 350€ for a compact and 500€ for a full-size. In low season, rates are often negotiable in Greece in person. And be prepared for the addition of about 18% in VAT taxes plus 2% in municipal taxes to the quoted price. (There's often a surcharge for pickup and drop-off at airports.)

Note: You must have written permission from the car rental agency to take your rental car on a ferry or into a foreign country.

TAXIS

Taxis are one of the most convenient means of getting about in Greece. They can also be the most exasperating, although there have been improvements in recent years. For instance, you no longer have to fight for a cab at most airports; just find the line. Cab fare is considerably lower in Athens than in London, New York, or Toronto. There is probably no greater percentage of cheats among Greece's cab drivers than in all major cities around the world -- and many Greek taxi drivers are good-natured, helpful, and informative. Language and cultural difficulties, however, can make it easier for them to gouge you, and some drivers do take advantage of this.

The converse is also true: Language gaps can lead to genuine misunderstandings. Legitimate surcharges do apply -- for heavy luggage, for rides from midnight to 6am (almost twice the regular rate!), for rides on holidays, and for rides from and to airports. Ask to see the official rate sheet that the driver is required to carry.

Get your hotel desk to help you hail or book a taxi. Radio cabs cost 2.50€ extra, but you'll have some leverage. Restaurants and businesses can also help you call or hail a cab, negotiate a fare, and make sure your destination is understood. Using a card from your hotel, write down your destination (or learn to pronounce it). Be willing to share a cab with other passengers picked up on the way, especially during rush hour; think of it as your contribution to better efficiency and less pollution. Be aware that you pay only your proportion of the shared fare.

Always have at least a vague idea of your destination as indicated by a map, so that you don't end up going to Plaka from Syntagma by way of Kolonaki. (There are, however, several ways of getting to Plaka from Syntagma.) Don't be bothered by bullying or bluster; counter with your own bluff, showing your self-confidence by keeping your cool.

Taxi Tips

Taxi rates are in constant (upwards!) flux, so we will provide the rates as we review. First, though, check to see that the little window next to the euro display on the meter is "1" and not "2" -- which is the setting for midnight-to-6am or outside-the-city-limits rates (which are about double the regular rate). If that's not the case, reach over and indicate that you notice.

Then check that the meter starts at no more than .85€ as you set off -- that is the maximum starting rate. Drivers have been known to start with a much higher number already registered; or they leave the meter off, then try to extort a much larger fare from you. Even if you don't speak a word of Greek besides "taxi," point at the meter and say "meter." The rate per kilometer has been about 0.30€ within the city during daylight hours, and about 0.50 € outside city limits or at night. The minimum fare for any trip is 1.75€.

For a group of tourists, a driver may insist that each person pay the full metered fare. Pay only your proportion of the fare if all of you have the same destination. Pairs or groups of tourists should have a designated arguer; the others can write down names and numbers, stick with the luggage, or look for help -- from a policeman, maitre d', or desk clerk.

Late at night, especially at airports, ferry stops, and bus and railroad stations, a driver may refuse to use his meter and demand an exorbitant fare. Smile, shake your head, and look for another cab; if none are available, start writing down the driver's license number and he will probably relent.

Legal surcharges include: 3€ from and to the main Athens airport; 0.90€ pickup at other airports, ports, bus terminals, or train terminals; 0.35€ per piece of luggage over 10 kilos (22 lb.). (Road tolls are charged to the passengers -- for example, you will pay 2€ for the new road from the airport to Athens.)

A driver may say that your hotel is full, but that he knows a better and cheaper one. Laugh, and insist you'll take your chances at your hotel.

A driver may want to let you off where it's most convenient for him. Be cooperative if it's easier and quicker for you to cross a busy avenue than for him to get you to the other side, but you don't have to get out of the cab until you're ready.

If things are obviously not going well for you, conspicuously write down the driver's name and number and by all means report him to the tourist police (tel. 171) if he has the nerve to call your bluff. One of the best countertactics is to simply reach for the door latch and open the door slightly; he won't want to risk damaging it. (Two passengers can each open a door.)

FERRIES

Ferries are the most common, cheapest, and generally most "authentic" way to visit the islands, though the slow roll of a ferry can be authentically stomach-churning. A wide variety of vessels sail Greek waters -- some huge, sleek, and new, with comfortable TV lounges, discos, and good restaurants; some old and ill-kept, but pleasant enough if you stay on deck.

The new Flying Dolphin hydrofoils also serve all the major islands. Undoubtedly faster, they cost almost twice as much as regular ferries, and their schedules are often interrupted by weather conditions. (Never rely on a tight connection between a hydrofoil and, say, an airplane flight.) Ferries, too, often don't hold exactly to their schedules, but they can be fun if you enjoy opportunities to meet people. Drinks and snacks are almost always sold, but the prices and selection are not that good, so you may want to bring along your own.

The map of Greece offered by the Greek National Tourism Organization (EOT), which indicates the common boat routes, is very useful in planning your sea travels. Once you've learned what is possible, you can turn your attention to what is available. Remember that the summer schedule is the fullest, spring and fall bring reduced service, and winter schedules are skeletal.

There are dozens of shipping companies, each with its own schedule -- which, by the way, are regulated by the government. Your travel agent might have a copy of the monthly schedule, Greek Travel Pages, or you can search online at www.gtp.gr or www.allgreekferies.com. But it's best to go straight to an official information office, a travel agency, or the port authority as soon as you arrive at the place that you intend to leave via ferry.

Photos can give you some idea of the ships, but remember that any photo displayed was probably taken when the ship was new, no matter when it was reproduced, and it is unlikely that anyone will be able (or willing) to tell you its actual age. The bigger ferries offer greater stability during rough weather. Except in summer, you can usually depend on getting aboard a ferry by showing up about an hour before scheduled departure -- inter-island boats sometimes depart before their scheduled times -- and purchasing a ticket from a dockside agent or aboard the ship itself, though this is often more expensive.

Your best bet is to buy a ticket from an agent ahead of time. In Athens, we recommend Galaxy Travel, 35 Voulis, near Syntagma Square (tel. 210/322-5960; www.galaxytravel.gr); and Alkyon Travel, 97 Akademias, near Kanigos Square (tel. 210/383-2545). During the high season, both agencies keep long hours Monday through Saturday.

Note: Different travel agencies sell tickets to different lines -- this is usually the policy of the line itself -- and one agent might not know or bother to find out what else is offered. However, if you press reputable agencies like those above, they will at least tell you the options. The port authority is the most reliable source of information, and the shipping company itself or its agents usually offer better prices and may have tickets when other agents have exhausted their allotment. It often pays to compare vessels and prices.

First class usually means roomy air-conditioned cabins and its own lounge; on some routes it costs almost as much as flying. However, on longer overnight hauls, you're on a comfortable floating hotel and thus save the cost of lodging. Second class means smaller cabins (which you will probably have to share with strangers) and its own lounge. The tourist-class fare entitles you to a seat on the deck or in a lounge. (Tourists usually head for the deck, while Greeks stay inside, watch TV, and smoke copiously.) Hold onto your ticket; crews conduct ticket-control sweeps.

Note: Those taking a ferry to Turkey from one of the Dodecanese islands must submit passport and payment to an agent the day before departure.

To give you some sense of the fares, here are examples for first-class travel from Piraeus at review time (compare with airfares during this same time): to Crete (Iraklion), 80€; Kos, 110€; Mitilini (Lesvos), 80€; Mykonos, 60€; Naxos, 65€; Rhodes, 130€; Santorini, 65€. A small embarkation tax may be added.

Early Season Ferries -- In the early weeks of the tourist season, from April to early May, boat service is altogether unpredictable. Boat schedules, at the best of times, are tentative -- but during this time, they are wish lists, nothing more. Our best advice is that you wait until you get to Greece, then go to a major travel agency and ask for help.

HYDROFOILS

Hydrofoils (often referred to by the principal line's trade name, Flying Dolphins, or by Greeks as to flying) are nearly twice as fast as ferries, and have comfortable airline-style seats. Their stops are much shorter, and they are less likely to cause seasickness. Although they cost nearly twice as much as ferries, are frequently fully booked in summer, can be quite bumpy during rough weather, and give little or no view of the passing scenery, they're the best choice if your time is limited. Everyone should ride one of these sleek little crafts at least once.

There is regular hydrofoil service to nearly all the major islands; new routes and new schedules appear often. Longer trips over open sea, such as between Santorini and Iraklion, Crete, may make them well worth the extra expense. (Smoking is prohibited, and actually less likely to be indulged in, possibly because the cabins seem so much like those of an aircraft.) The forward compartment offers better views but is also bumpy.

The Flying Dolphins are now operated by Hellas Flying Dolphins, Akti Kondyli and 2 Aitolikou, 18545 Piraeus (tel. 210/419-9100; www.dolphins.gr). The service from Zea Marina in Piraeus to the Saronic Gulf islands and the Peloponnese is especially good. (The fare to Spetses is about 35€, compared to about 18€ for tourist-class ferry service.) Flying Dolphin service in the Sporades is recommended for its speed and regularity. There is also service from Rafina, on the east coast of Attika, to several of the Cyclades islands.

SAILBOATS & YACHTS

Increasing numbers of people are choosing to explore Greece by sailboat or yacht. Sailing and yachting require such specialized skills and equipment that it is unlikely that anyone wanting to undertake either of these activities in Greece will depend on a general guide such as this. But clearly there are numerous facilities and possibilities for both. Experienced sailors interested in renting a boat in Greece can contact the Hellenic Professional and Bareboat Yacht Owners' Association, Zea Marina, 18536 Piraeus (tel. 210/452-6335). One possibility is to sign up for one of the flotillas -- a group of around 12 or more sailboats that sail about as a group led by a boat crewed by experienced sailors; the largest of such organizations is Sunsail, 980 Awald Rd., Annapolis, MD 21403 (tel. 800/327-2276), but travel agencies should be able to put you in touch with one of these organizations.

At the other extreme, those who want to charter a yacht with anything from a basic skipper to a full crew should probably first contact the Hellenic Professional Yacht Owners' Association or Ghiolman Yachts, 7 Filellinon, 10557 Athens (tel. 210/323-0330; fax 210/322-3251; www.ghiolman.com). If you feel competent to make your own arrangements, contact Valef Yachts Ltd., P.O. Box 391, Ambler, PA 19002 (tel. 215/641-1624; www.valefyachts.com). In Greece, you can either contact one of these associations or a private agency such as Alpha Yachting, Leoforos Vasileos Yioryios 67, 16674 Glyfada (tel. 210/968-0486); Aris Drivas Yachting, 147 Neorion, Piraeus (tel. 210/411-3194); or Thalassa Charter and Yacht Brokers, 72 Grypari, Kallithea, Athens (tel. 210/956-6866).


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