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SHOPPING IN CHICAGO

Forget Rodeo Drive or Fifth Avenue -- Chicago is the country's original shopping centre. As the United States expanded westward, catalogs from Chicago-based Sears and Montgomery Ward made clothes, books, and housewares accessible to even the most remote frontier towns. And the department store magnate Marshall Field operated his namesake department store, which opened in 1852, under the motto "Give the lady what she wants." Field pioneered many customer-service policies that are now standard, such as hassle-free returns.

Today Montgomery Ward is no more, but downtown Chicago still draws hordes of shoppers (as anyone who's tried to walk quickly down Michigan Ave. on a busy summer Saturday can attest to). From the fine furniture showrooms at the imposing Merchandise Mart to the who's who of designer boutiques lining Oak Street and Michigan Avenue, the quality of stores in Chicago is top-notch. And because so many of the best are concentrated in one easy-to-walk area, the convenience of shopping in Chicago is unmatched.

Shopping Hours: As a general rule, store hours are 10am to 6 or 7pm Monday through Saturday and noon to 6pm Sunday. Neighbourhood stores tend to keep later hours, as do some of the stores along Michigan Avenue, which cater to after-work shoppers as well as tourists. Almost all stores have extended hours during the holiday season. Nearly all the stores in the Loop are open for daytime shopping only, generally from 9 or 10am to no later than 6pm Monday through Saturday. (The few remaining big downtown department stores have some selected evening hours.) Many Loop stores not on State Street are closed Saturday; on Sunday the Loop -- except for a few restaurants, theaters, and cultural attractions -- shuts down pretty tight.

Sales Tax: You might do a double take after checking the total on your purchase: At 9%, the state and local sales tax on nonfood items is one of the steepest in the country.

The Top Shopping Streets & Neighbourhoods

The nickname "Magnificent Mile" -- hyperbole to some, an understatement to others -- refers to the roughly mile-long stretch of North Michigan Avenue between Oak Street and the Chicago River.

The density of the area's first-rate shopping is, quite simply, unmatched anywhere. Even jaded shoppers from other worldly capitals are delighted at the ease and convenience of the stores concentrated here. Taking into account that tony Oak Street is just around a corner, the overall area is a little like New York's Fifth Avenue and Beverly Hills's Rodeo Drive rolled into one. Whether your passion is Bulgari jewelry, Prada bags, or Salvatore Ferragamo footwear, you'll find it on this stretch of concrete. And don't think you're seeing everything by walking down the street: Michigan Avenue is home to several indoor, high-rise malls, where plenty more boutiques and restaurants are tucked away. Window-shoppers and people-watchers will find plenty to amuse themselves because this is the city's liveliest corridor: The sidewalks are packed in the summer and on weekends with hordes of shoppers strolling up and down the avenue and pausing to enjoy the many street performers who enliven this strip.

For the ultimate Mag Mile shopping adventure, start at one end of North Michigan Avenue and try to work your way to the other. Below I've listed some of the best-known shops on the avenue and on nearby side streets.

Shopping the Magnificent Mile
This shopper's stroll begins at Oak Street at the northern end of the avenue and heads south toward the river. It just hits the highlights; you're sure to find much more to tickle your fancy and tempt your wallet as you meander from designer landmarks to well-known chain stores.

The parade of designer names begins at the intersection of Michigan Avenue and Oak Street, including a couple housed in The Drake hotel, such as the legendary Danish silversmith Georg Jensen, 959 N. Michigan Ave. (tel. 312/642-9160), known for outstanding craftsmanship in sterling silver and gold, including earrings, brooches, watches, tie clips, and flatware; and Chanel, 935 N. Michigan Ave. (tel. 312/787-5500). On the next block south is another luxury emporium, the spacious Louis Vuitton store at 919 N. Michigan Ave. (tel. 312/944-2010), where you'll find trendy handbags and the company's distinctive brown-and-gold luggage.

On the other side of the street, opposite the dark, soaring Hancock Building, you'll find a quiet oasis that's worth a quick peek. The Fourth Presbyterian Church, 126 E. Chestnut St. (tel. 312/787-4570), looks like something out of an English country village, with a Gothic stone exterior and peaceful, flower-filled courtyard (perfect for escaping the Mag Mile hoards for a few moments).

Giorgio Armani's sleek boutique, at 800 N. Michigan Ave., in the Park Hyatt Hotel (tel. 312/573-4220), faces the small park next to the historic Water Tower. Across the street, a few doors west of Michigan Avenue, is one of Chicago's hottest family destinations: American Girl Place, at 111 E. Chicago Ave. (tel. 877/AG-PLACE). The three-story doll emporium attracts hordes of young girls (and parents) hooked on the popular mail-order company's line of historic character dolls. A stage show brings stories from the American Girl books to life, and the store's cafe is a nice spot for a special mother-daughter lunch or afternoon tea.

The next block of Michigan Avenue has a New York vibe, thanks to the world's largest Polo Ralph Lauren, 750 N. Michigan Ave. (tel. 312/280-1655), a four-floor, wood-paneled minimansion, and Tiffany & Co., 730 N. Michigan Ave. (tel. 312/944-7500), with its signature clock, jewels, and tabletop accessories (if you want to get your hands on one of the distinctive robin's-egg blue shopping bags without spending a fortune, the $70 sterling-silver key chains are the least expensive items in the store).

A few doors south are Neiman Marcus, 737 N. Michigan Ave. (tel. 312/642-5900), and at 669 N. Michigan Ave. (tel. 312/642-6363), the hugely popular Niketown, a multilevel complex that helped pioneer the concept of retail as entertainment. Across the street you'll probably see a line of people trailing out from the Garrett Popcorn Shop, 670 N. Michigan Ave. (tel. 312/944-2630), a 50-year-old landmark. Join the locals in line and pick up some caramel corn for a quick sugar rush.

At the intersection of Michigan Avenue and Erie Street is the appropriately barrel-shaped Crate & Barrel, 646 N. Michigan Ave. (tel. 312/787-5900). Crate & Barrel was started in Chicago, so this is the company's flagship location. Countless varieties of glassware, dishes, cookware, and kitchen gadgets for everyday use line the shelves. The top two floors are devoted to furniture.

Continuing south, you'll find Burberry, 633 N. Michigan Ave. (tel. 312/787-2500), where the classic beige plaid has moved beyond trench coats to show up on chic purses, shoes, and bathing suits (if you're looking for luxury souvenirs, check out the collection of baby clothes and dog accessories). The Virgin Megastore (tel. 312/645-9300), true to its name, stocks a megacollection of CDs, videos, DVDs, books, and interactive games.

Chic Shopping on Nearby Oak Street
Oak Street has long been a symbol of designer-label shopping; if a store has an Oak Street address, you can count on it being expensive. The shopping district itself is actually quite limited, taking up only 1 block at the northern tip of the Magnificent Mile (where Michigan Ave. ends and Lake Shore Dr. begins). And it's not quite as A-list as it used to be; some big-name boutiques (such as Giorgio Armani) have left Oak Street for higher-traffic locations on Michigan Avenue; newer shops include names like Nicole Miller and BCBG Max Azria -- upscale, to be sure, but not exactly exclusive. Still, this stretch of converted town houses is still well worth a stroll -- for people-watching if nothing else (this is Main St. for Chicago socialites). Most of Oak Street is closed on Sunday, except during the holiday season.

Chicago's most high-profile clothing shop, Ultimo, is right around the corner from Michigan Avenue; upscale and exclusive, it caters to the seriously fashionable. Footwear fans can choose from several high-priced shoe boutiques, including Italian shoemaker Tod's and Donald J Pliner, whose eponymous founder got his start in Chicago. Shoes, stationery, and handbags are available at kate spade, 101 E. Oak St. (tel. 312/654-8853), along with the Jack Spade line of men's accessories. The priciest accessories on this very pricey block are probably to be found at French luxury house Hermès of Paris, 110 E. Oak St. (tel. 312/787-8175). Thread-count fanatics swear by the sheets from Pratesi, 67 E. Oak St. (tel. 312/943-8422), and Frette, 41 E. Oak St. (tel. 312/649-3744), both of which supply linens to top hotels (and where sheet sets cost more than what some people pay in rent).

Anchoring the western end of the block are two haute heavyweights, hip Italian designer Prada, 30 E. Oak St. (tel. 312/951-1113), which offers three floors of sleek, postmodern fashions for men and women and plenty of the designer's signature handbags; and equally style-conscious Barneys New York.

An Oak Street Bargain--Oak Street is not the place to come shopping for bargains -- with one exception: Bravco, 43 E. Oak St. (tel. 312/943-4305), a crowded, narrow drugstore that seems out of place among the hip boutiques. The favourite spot of Chicago hairstylists and makeup artists, you'll find an excellent selection of professional hair and beauty products (including Aveda, Sebastian, and Bumble and Bumble) here for much less than they cost at salons. Even if you haven't heard of some of the brands, trust me -- if Bravco carries them, they're hot.

State Street & The Loop
Shopping in the Loop is mostly concentrated along State Street, from Randolph Street south to Congress Parkway (although there are stores sprinkled elsewhere, they're mostly places that cater to office workers: drugstores, sandwich shops, and chain clothing stores). State Street was Chicago's first great shopping district -- by World War I, seven of the largest and most lavish department stores in the world were competing for shoppers' loyalties along this 1/2-mile stretch. The area has been eclipsed by Michigan Avenue, and State Street now is lined with discount stores and fast-food outlets. But it's still worth visiting because of the two grand old department stores that remain: Marshall Field & Co., 111 N. State St., at Randolph Street (tel. 312/781-1000); and Carson Pirie Scott & Co., a few blocks south, at 1 S. State St., at the corner of Madison Street (tel. 312/641-7000). Both buildings are city landmarks and attractions in themselves. Architecturally speaking, the Louis Sullivan-designed Carson's is the more celebrated of the two; however, Field's State Street store remains one of the world's largest department stores, occupying an entire city block and featuring the largest Tiffany glass mosaic dome in the United States. If you're in Chicago between Thanksgiving and New Year's, a visit to Marshall Field's to see the holiday windows and to have lunch under the Great Tree in the Walnut Room is in keeping with local tradition.

The other stores along State Street are not particularly distinctive -- the place still has a no-frills aura compared to Michigan Avenue -- but it stays busy thanks to the thousands of office workers who stroll around during their lunch hour or after work. On weekends the street is considerably more subdued.

Point Zero--If the quick change from north to south in the Loop confuses you, keep in mind that in Chicago, point zero for the purpose of address numbering is the intersection of State and Madison streets.

Jewelers' Row--It's not quite as impressive as the Big Apple's diamond district, but Chicago's own "Jewelers' Row" is certainly worth a detour for rock hunters. Half a dozen high-rises along the Wabash Avenue El tracks in the heart of the Loop service the wholesale trade, but the one at 5 S. Wabash Ave. opens its doors to customers off the street. There's a mall-like retail space on the ground floor crammed with tiny booths manned by smooth-talking reps hawking their wares. You can grab a map here for a self-guided tour of the rest of the building's tenants. It's quite an experience because many of the booths are closet-size cubbyholes with hunched-over geezers who look as if they've been eyeballing solitaire and marquise cuts since the Roosevelt administration -- Teddy, that is.

River North
Since the 1960s, when the Chicago Imagists (painters Ed Paschke, Jim Nutt, and Roger Brown among them) attracted international attention with their shows at the Hyde Park Art Center, the city has been a fertile breeding ground for emerging artists and innovative art dealers. The primary gallery district today is concentrated in the River North neighbourhood, where century-old, redbrick warehouse buildings have been converted into lofty exhibition spaces. More recently, a new generation of gallery owners has set up shop in the rapidly gentrifying West Loop neighbourhood, where you'll tend to find more cutting-edge work. The River North gallery district is an easy walk from many hotels; the West Loop may seem a little farther afield, but it's only a short cab ride from downtown.

The River North gallery season officially gets underway on the first Friday after Labor Day in September. Besides fall, another great time to visit the district is from mid-July through August, when the Chicago Art Dealers Association presents Vision, an annual lineup of programs tailored to the public. Early September also offers the annual Around the Coyote festival in Wicker Park/Bucktown (call tel. 773/342-6777 for information), when scores of artists open their studios to the public (the name refers to the now-departed Coyote Gallery, which used to stand at the corner of Damen and North aves.).

The Chicago Reader, a free weekly newspaper available at many stores, taverns, and cafes on the North Side, publishes a very comprehensive listing of current gallery exhibitions, as does the quarterly Chicago Gallery News (www.chicagogallerynews.com), which is available free at the city's three visitor information centres. Another good resource is the Chicago Art Dealers Association (tel. 312/649-0065; www.chicagoartdealers.org); the group's website has descriptions of all member galleries.

Along with its status as Chicago's primary art-gallery district, River North -- the area west of the Magnificent Mile and north of the Chicago River -- has attracted many interesting home-design shops concentrated on Wells Street from Kinzie Street to Chicago Avenue. My favorites include Manifesto, 755 N. Wells St., at Chicago Avenue (tel. 312/664-0733), which offers custom-designed furniture, as well as imports from Italy and Austria; and Mig & Tig, 540 N. Wells St., at Ohio Street (tel. 312/644-8277), a charming furniture and decorative-accessories shop (there's an outlet shop across the street, at 549 N. Wells).

Looming above the Chicago River at the southern end of River North is the Merchandise Mart, the world's largest commercial building. The massive complex was built in 1930 by Marshall Field & Company and was bought in 1945 by Joseph P. Kennedy (JFK's dad); the Kennedy family ran the Mart until the late 1990s. Now the building houses mostly interior-design showrooms -- which are open only to professional designers. The only way for visitors to get a sense of the whole massive complex is to take a public tour, usually offered Friday at 1pm ($10 adults; tel. 312/527-7762).

Armitage Avenue
Hovering between the North Side neighbourhoods of Old Town and Lincoln Park, Armitage Avenue has emerged as a shopping destination in its own right, thanks to an influx of wealthy young professionals who have settled into historic town homes on the neighbouring tree-lined streets. The main shopping district is concentrated between Halsted Street and Racine Avenue. As you stroll around, you'll get a good sense of the area's strong community spirit, with neighbours greeting each other and catching up on the street corners.

The shops and boutiques here are geared toward a sophisticated, well-heeled shopper and make for great browsing. (Most are geared toward female shoppers -- sorry, guys). You'll find trendy clothing boutiques, including that of local-gal-made-good Cynthia Rowley (808 W. Armitage Ave.; tel. 773/528-6160); jaw-droppingly beautiful home-decor stores; beauty emporiums"); and the impossible-to-classify gift shops, Art Effect. Tiny Multiple Choices, 840 W. Armitage Ave. (tel. 773/477-4520), is full of colourful ceramics and creative gifts (including Big Ten college board games such as "Wisconsinopoly"). The upscale pet accessories shop Barker & Meowsky (1003 W. Armitage Ave.; tel. 773/868-0200) has everything you need to spoil furry family members, including catnip cigars, doggy "sushi," and designer-inspired outfits.

Despite the area's upscale feel, you can snag bargains at some top-notch discount and consignment shops, including Lori's Designer Shoes, McShane's Exchange, Fox's, and The Second Child.

Pamper Yourself--When all that Armitage Avenue shopping gets just too exhausting, take a break at one of the beauty stores concentrated within a few blocks of each other on Halsted Street. Endo-Exo Apothecary, 2034 N. Halsted St. (tel. 773/525-0500), lined with vintage wood cabinets, is a peaceful retreat that stocks a number of specialty skin-care and makeup lines; they'll even give you a complimentary makeover. The mood is more flashy and hip at Fresh, 2040 N. Halsted St. (tel. 773/404-9776), where the sleek shelves are filled with skin treatments, at-home spa supplies, and their own line of cosmetics. To get really creative, visit cozy Aroma Workshop, 2050 N. Halsted St. (tel. 773/871-1985), where you can mix up your own custom-scented body lotions and perfumes. A few blocks south, you'll find all-natural soaps, creams, and bubble baths at Lush, 859 W. Armitage Ave. (tel. 773/281-LUSH). Now that you're freshened up and made over . . . it's time to get back to shopping!

Lincoln Park & Lakeview
A few major north-south thoroughfares -- Lincoln Avenue, Clark Street, and Broadway -- are the main shopping streets in both Lincoln Park (south of Diversey Pkwy.) and Lakeview (north of Diversey). Most of the shops cater to the young singles who live in the surrounding apartment buildings; you'll find plenty of minimart groceries, some clothing and shoe boutiques, and the occasional used-book store, but not much that's worth a special trip.

Radiating from the intersection of Belmont Avenue and Clark Street is a string of shops catering to rebellious kids on tour from their homes in the 'burbs (the Dunkin' Donuts on the corner is often referred to as "Punkin' Donuts" in their honor). One constant in the ever-changing youth culture has been the Alley, 3228 N. Clark St., at Belmont Avenue (tel. 773/883-1800), an "alternative shopping complex" selling everything from plaster gargoyles to racks of leather jackets. It has separate shops specialising in condoms, cigars, and bondage wear. Tragically Hip, a storefront women's boutique at 931 W. Belmont Ave. (tel. 773/549-1500), next to the Belmont El train stop, has outlasted many other similar purveyors of cutting-edge women's apparel.

Or, you can get plugged into what the kids are reading at Chicago Comics, 3244 N. Clark St. (tel. 773/528-1983), considered one of the best comics shops in the country. Besides the usual superhero titles, you'll find lots of European and Japanese comics, along with underground books and 'zines.

Southport Avenue
West of Lakeview, a few blocks from Wrigley Field, this residential area was considered up-and-coming about 10 years ago; now it's definitely arrived. The mix of restaurants, cool (but not too cool) clothing boutiques, and cafes appeals to the upscale urban families who have flocked to the area (watch out for strollers hogging the sidewalk). It's worth a look if you want to hang out in an urban neighbourhood that's a little more laid-back than the Gold Coast or Wicker Park. Start at the Southport El stop on the Brown Line and work your way north to Grace Street (allow about an hour -- more if you're doing some serious shopping or want to stop for lunch). Along the way you'll pass the historic Music Box Theater at 3733 N. Southport Ave. (tel. 773/871-6604), north of Addison Street, which shows independent films from around the world. Two clothing shops catering to hip young women with plenty of disposable income are Krista K, 3458 N. Southport Ave. (tel. 773/248-1967), and Red Head Boutique, 3450 N. Southport Ave. (tel. 773/325-9898), which both stock hot newer designers that aren't widely available in Chicago. Shane, 3657 N. Southport Ave. (tel. 773/549-0179), and Jake, 3740 N. Southport Ave. (tel. 773/929-5253), carry more casual clothes for both men and women (think trendy T-shirts and specialty-label denim).

Wicker Park/Bucktown
The go-go gentrification of the Wicker Park/Bucktown area has been followed by not only a rash of restaurants and bars but also retailers with an artsy bent that reflect the neighbourhood's bohemian spirit. Mixed in with old neighbourhood businesses, such as discount furniture stores and religious-icon purveyors, is a proliferation of antique-furniture shops, too-cool-for-school clothing boutiques, and eclectic galleries and gift emporiums. Despite the hefty price tags in many of these shops, the neighbourhood still feels gritty -- so come here if you want to feel like you've gotten a real urban fix.

Start at the Damen El stop on the Blue Line and walk north along Damen to Armitage Avenue to scope out the trendiest shops. If you've got time, some stores are also scattered along Milwaukee Avenue south of North Avenue.

The friendly modern-day Marco Polos at Pagoda Red, 1714 N. Damen Ave., second floor (tel. 773/235-1188), have imported beautiful (and expensive) antique furniture and art objects, including Chinese concubine beds, painted Tibetan cabinets, Burmese rolling water vessels, cast-iron lotus bowls, bronze Buddhas, and Chinese inspiration stones. The three women who opened the upscale bazaar Embelezar at 1639 N. Damen Ave. (tel. 773/645-9705) purvey exotic merchandise from around the world, both old and new, including the famous Fortuny silk lamps -- hand-painted in Venice at the only studio allowed to reproduce the original Fortuny designs. You'll find a well-edited selection of home accessories and jewelry at Lille, 1923 W. North Ave. (tel. 773/342-0563). The airy, white space looks like an art gallery, with pieces from internationally known designers (Lulu de Kwiatkowski handbags, Christian Tortu vases) alongside plenty of quirky objects.

West Division Street
Once home to just a few pioneering restaurants, Division Street is quickly being transformed from a desolate urban landscape to a hot shopping destination. It's a work in progress (you'll find some boarded-up buildings among the cool boutiques), but for now this is what Wicker Park used to be: a place where rents are still cheap enough for eager young entrepreneurs. Start at the Division El stop on the Blue Line and head west along Division; most stores are concentrated between Milwaukee Avenue and Damen Avenue. Along the way you'll stroll past eclectic clothing and shoe boutiques, bath-and-beauty shops, and home-decor stores such as Porte Rouge, 1911 W. Division St. (tel. 773/269-2800), filled with French antiques and housewares (they'll even offer you a complimentary cup of tea). The mix of people living here -- from working-class Latino families to self-consciously edgy young singles -- makes the local cafes great for people-watching.


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