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 Posted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 7:29 am Post subject: CANADA TOURISM GUIDE (TORONTO) |
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CANADA TOURISM GUIDE (TORONTO)
First, the good news: Toronto has amazing sights that appeal to travelers of all stripes. The bad news? No matter how long your stay, you won't be able to fit everything in. Toronto is a sprawling city, and while downtown and midtown boast most of the best attractions, some wonderful sights are in less accessible areas. Travelers in 2006 should note that the Royal Ontario Museum and the Art Gallery of Ontario will be undergoing extensive renovations throughout the year, making substantial parts of their collections unavailable for viewing.
Keep in mind that many Toronto attractions could take up a whole day. The Ontario Science Centre, Harbourfront, and Paramount Canada's Wonderland all come to mind. That's not even mentioning the parks, the arts scene, or the shopping possibilities.
Downtown West
Chinatown
Stretching along Dundas Street west from Bay Street to Spadina Avenue and north and south along Spadina Avenue, Chinatown is home to some of Toronto's 350,000 Chinese-Canadian residents. Packed with fascinating shops and restaurants, it even has bilingual street signs.
In Dragon City, a large shopping mall at Spadina and Dundas, you'll find all kinds of stores. Some sell Chinese preserves (like cuttlefish, lemon ginger, whole mango, ginseng, and antler), and others specialize in Asian books, tapes, records, fashion, and food. Downstairs, a fast-food court features Korean, Indonesian, Chinese, and Japanese cuisine.
As you stroll through Chinatown, stop in at some of the shops and teahouses. A walk through Chinatown at night is especially exciting -- the sidewalks fill with people, and neon lights shimmer everywhere. You'll pass gleaming noodle houses, windows hung with rows of glossy-brown cooked ducks, record stores selling the top 10 in Chinese, and trading companies filled with Asian produce.
To get to Chinatown, take the subway to St. Patrick and walk west.
Little Italy
Along College Street, between Euclid and Shaw, Little Italy competes with West Queen West to be the hottest spot in the city. The area hums at night, as people crowd the coffee bars, pool lounges, nightclubs, and trattorias. Notable restaurants in the area include Sottovoce, Chiado, and Veni Vidi Vici. Great boutiques in the area are Sim & Jones, which features chic, smart casual clothing for women, and Mink, a glittering oasis of faux gemstones. To get there, ride any College Street streetcar west to Euclid Avenue.
Queen Street West
This street was once considered the heart of Toronto's avant-garde scene. That would be a serious stretch today. Sure, it's home to several clubs -- such as the Rivoli -- where major Canadian artists and singers have launched their careers, but it's also where you'll find mainstream shops such as Club Monaco, Gap, and Le Chateau. Edgy? Not anymore.
Queen Street West officially starts at Yonge Street, but it doesn't really pick up, style-wise, till you cross University Avenue. It ends at Bathurst Street. You'll find lots of great bistros in this neighbourhood, such as Le Sélect and the Taro Grill. This is also prime shopping territory, with one-of-a-kind clothing boutiques such as Price Roman and Peach Berserk. You'll also find a number of fine antiquarian bookstores, antiques and/or junk shops, nostalgic record emporiums, kitchen supply stores, and discount fabric houses.
To start exploring, take the subway to Osgoode and walk west along Queen Street West.
Art & Design District
Also known as "West Queen West." Queen Street west of Bathurst Street used to be a no-man's land -- not because it was dangerous, but because little of importance was believed to be that far from the downtown core. How times have changed: This is one of the liveliest 'hoods in the city (one magazine dubbed it the coolest in the country). In 2004, it became home to the new Drake Hotel and the Museum of Contemporary Canadian Art.
West Queen West is all funky fun. It's got great shops for housewares and antiques, such as Quasi-Modo, and excellent, small art galleries, such as the Stephen Bulger. The clothing boutiques are exceptionally fine: Stop by the bodacious Boudoir for vintage, Girl Friday for original designs, and Delphic for men's clothes. It's also got some fine-but-affordable dining, at spots like Swan. To start exploring, take the subway to Osgoode and the streetcar over to Bathurst, and start walking west from there.
Downtown East
The Beaches
This is one of the neighbourhoods that makes Toronto a unique city. Here, near the terminus of the Queen Street East streetcar line, you can stroll or cycle along the lakefront boardwalk. Because of its natural assets, it has become a popular residential neighbourhood for young boomers and their families, and Queen Street has plenty of browseable stores, such as Zig Zag and Book City. Just beyond Waverley Road, you can turn down through Kew Gardens to the boardwalk and walk all the way past the Olympic Pool to Ashbridge's Bay Park. To get to the Beaches, take any Queen Street East streetcar to Woodbine Avenue.
Midtown West
Yorkville
This area stretches north of Bloor Street West, between Avenue Road and Bay Street. Since its founding in 1853 as a village outside the city proper, Yorkville has experienced many transformations. In the 1960s, it was Toronto's answer to Haight-Ashbury. In the 1980s, it became the hunting ground of the chic, who spent liberally at Hermès, Chanel, and Cartier, and at the neighbourhood's many fine-art galleries, such as Kinsman Robinson and Feheley Fine Arts. In the early 1990s, the recession left its mark -- but today, the energy is back. Hazelton Lanes and Bloor Street continue to attract high-style stores, including a branch of Tiffany's.
Stroll around and browse, because this is still a shopper's paradise. Jeanne Lottie, Pusateri's, and Teatro Verde might bring out my spendthrift side, but they won't break the bank. People-watching is also a popular pastime here; pick a perch at a cafe on Yorkville or Cumberland, and watch the parade go by. If you really want to indulge, visit the Stillwater Spa at the Park Hyatt hotel or the Estée Lauder Spa at Holt Renfrew.
While you're in the neighbourhood (especially if you're an architecture buff), take a look at the red-brick building on Bloor Street at the end of Yorkville Avenue that houses the Toronto Reference Library. Step inside, and you'll find one of Toronto's most serene spots. To reach Yorkville, take the subway to Bay.
Mirvish Village
One of the city's most illustrious characters is Honest Ed Mirvish, who started his career in the 1950s with a no-frills department store at the corner of Markham and Bloor streets (1 block west of Bathurst). Even from blocks away, neon signs race and advertisements touting bargains hit you from every direction. Among his other accomplishments, Mirvish saved the Royal Alexandra Theatre on King Street from demolition; established a row of adjacent restaurants for theater patrons; and developed this block-long area with art galleries, restaurants, and bookstores. He was responsible for saving and renovating London's Old Vic, too.
Stop by and browse, and don't forget to step into Honest Ed's. To start your visit, take the subway to Bathurst.
The East End
The Danforth/Greek Town
This eclectic area along Danforth Street east of the Don River is hot, hot, hot. It swings until the early hours, when the restaurants and bars are still crowded and frenetic. During the day, visitors can browse the traditional Greek stores -- like Akropol, a Greek bakery at no. 458 (tel. 416/465-1232) that displays stunning multitiered wedding cakes in the window. The neighborhood is becoming more ethnically diverse, and its new character is reflected by stores like Blue Moon, no. 375 (tel. 416/778-6991), which sells beautiful crafts from the developing world (the store supports only producers that provide healthy working conditions and fair pay); and El Pipil, no. 267 (tel. 416/465-9625), which has colorful clothing, knapsacks, and jewelry. To get to the Danforth, ride the subway to Broadview and walk east.
Markets
Kensington Market
This colourful, lively area should not be missed. You'll hear Caribbean, Portuguese, Italian, and other accents as merchants spread out their wares -- squid and crabs in pails; chickens, pigeons, bread, cheese, apples, pears, peppers, ginger, and mangoes from the West Indies; salted fish from Portuguese dories; lace, fabrics, and other colourful remnants. There's no market on Sunday. Kensington Avenue itself is a treasure trove of vintage clothing stores. Admittedly, you'll see a lot of junk here, but amazing finds can be had at shops such as Courage My Love (14 Kensington Ave.; tel. 416/979-1992). Most of the shops display their wares out of doors in decent weather, adding to the colour and charm of the area.
St. Lawrence Market
This handsome food market is in a vast building constructed around the facade of the second city hall, built in 1850. Vendors sell fresh meat, fish, fruit, vegetables, and dairy products as well as other foodstuffs. The best time to visit is early Saturday morning, shortly after the farmers arrive. |
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