Expatriate Forums in Kuwait

twocupslater · Guest Home Country: countryx

I have found the best places by getting lost! Kuwait City is full of shopping centers and markets. The trick is finding them! The best advice is to drive around, find a parking garage, park, and walk around! Across from the Sheraton is a great mall. Jovial is an interesting place to check out and behind that is a great market! From the market, you can walk through an underground tunnel to the other side of the street where you will find another shopping mall. If I knew the names of any of them, I would share! Also, in Salmiya, across from the Sultan Center are several smaller malls. Farwaynia is excellent as well as Al-Bustan. One thing I found was there are very few places that offer acryllic nails.... inside Al-Bustan there is an excellent nail salon called N'Style. Stay away from Strands Nail Bar. I got a terrible infection because the tech cut my fingers several times and I have heard many sories to the like. Good luck and Happy shopping.

RPmba · Guest Home Country: countryx

Hi, can you help?

I have just been offered a teaching job in Kuwait, but so far have found it extremely difficult to find any solid information about the actual cost of living.
Im told my salary will be 800 KD per month, even though my accommodation is free - can you tell me roughly how much i would need to live on per week, without being a pauper!
I would like to do things like scuba diving if available, gym, eating out etc, all the usual stuff, as well as shopping!
Can you offer me any advice?...Anything at all would be greatly appreciated!
You can mail me direct on rpmba@blueyonder.co.uk

Many thanks.

Samsam · Guest Home Country: countryx

Hi

Some FAQ that i found on the web, should be useful for you

(The contributor, who is affiliated with the U.S. Embassy, has lived in Kuwait for a year. Photos by the author.)

Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US (check flight schedules with Expedia) : It's about 6 hours from Frankfurt or 15 hours from Washington DC. United Airlines/Lufthansa and British Airways are both pretty nice flights, especially if you are able to fly Business Class. I would avoid Kuwait Airways, even though it's the only direct flight from the U.S.

Pollution index (good, moderate, unhealthy, or very unhealthy): Moderate. For a such a small country, Kuwait has plenty of cars and too much auto pollution. But you won't be spending a lot of time outside in the summer, so you don't really notice it. The dust storms can be pretty fierce at times—enough to make your eyes sting and give you headaches. If you are prone to allergies you may have a difficult time here.

Security concerns: Considering the proximity to Iraq, which is still a war zone, and the local homegrown extremists, who engaged in shootouts with Kuwaiti police earlier this year, one should be very aware of security. That said, this is probably is one of the safer places in the Gulf, and Kuwaitis are generally very friendly to Westerners—Americans in particular. I find driving here to be one of my greatest security concerns. There are lots of big cars, and Kuwaitis drive extraordinarily fast.

Housing (typical types, locations, commute time): We live in a very spacious and luxurious apartment. Our apartment, like many others that house embassy employees, is right across the street from the Gulf and has a beautiful view. Our drive to work is about ten minutes. It can be a longer drive when school is in session, as many Kuwaitis drive their kids to school each morning rather than put them on a bus. The housing market is very tight, but new construction is going on all over the city; so that should ease things a bit over the next year. Embassy employees are housed in a mix of apartments and houses, with most being in very good condition and very spacious.

International schools (and your own experience with them): Most people seem happy with them. The American School of Kuwait, the English School of Kuwait, and a few others have a good reputation. Many people seem to send their high school children back to the US for their last few years, but quite a few stay here in Kuwait. The nice thing about Kuwait is that there seem to be quite a few options for families.

Preschool/daycare available (with comments about your experience): Hiring a nanny is quite affordable here. The majority of the population here are third-country nationals (Indian, Filipino, Pakistani, etc.) who actually outnumber the Kuwaitis, and most families with kids have at least one nanny.

What accommodations do schools at post make for special-needs kids? I don't think they're attuned to that here.
Mall with elevated walkway

Is this a good city for families/singles/couples? Yes, it's a good city for just about everyone. If you really like to go out to bars, out dancing, or enjoy a lot of cultural events, then it can be a little bit slow. Singles may find it difficult to meet people here. Alcohol is illegal, but it can be acquired by diplomats through their mission. There is also a black market here. Families really seem to like it here. There are plenty of amusement parks and water-sport activities for kids.

Is it a good city for gay or lesbian expats? Since this is a Muslim country, you will not notice gay or lesbian couples out in the open, but an underground scene does exist.

Are there problems with racial, religious or gender prejudices? Women just got the right to vote in 2005, and we are now definitely seeing some gender prejudices challenged. However, it still remains a male-dominated, conservative society. Some Kuwaitis treat some of the non-Western third-country nationals pretty poorly. There are Protestant and Catholic churches, but there's also quite a bit of bashing of Israel and Judaism.

What difficulties would someone with physical disabilities have living in this city? It wouldn't be tremendously difficult, because everything is flat, and the buildings mostly have elevators. But I wouldn't say that anyone has gone out of their way to make things specifically wheelchair-accessible or anything like that. Most of the apartment buildings have stairs without ramps, so it is likely that special accommodations would need to be made.

Interesting/fun things to do in the area: There are lots of really nice shopping malls, an ice-skating rink, a bowling alley, and you can take riding lessons, learn to scuba dive, go sailing, visit some of Kuwait's islands, spend a day at the beach, etc. There are also some outdoor markets. While it's expensive, it's fairly easy to travel from Kuwait to other countries in the Gulf, India, and elsewhere in Asia. It's not a bad idea to come with a hobby or two. During the summer you'll want to have ways to pass the time indoors.

What fast food and decent restaurants are available? Cost? All of the American fast food joints (McDonald's, Burger King, KFC, Johnny Rockets, Hard Rock Café, etc.) are here, as are many very fancy restaurants. We have great Thai, Japanese, and Indian restaurants, decent steak places, and lots of Lebanese restaurants. Just don't expect alcohol with your dinner. Eating out is quite expensive. Most places will deliver.

What is the availability (and the relative cost) of groceries and household supplies? You can get just about anything here from a variety of large supermarkets and small corner stores. American and Western products are a bit expensive, but it's all available. We have both Ace and True Value Hardware stores, IKEA, Sears, and a few other stores where you can get hardware, home supplies, furniture, etc.
A mosque in Kuwait

What comments can you make about using credit cards and ATMs? No problems here. Sometimes you'll get a conversion charge. If you are affiliated with the embassy you can use an ATM on the compound.

What type of automobile is suitable to bring (or not to bring) because of rugged terrain, lack of parts and service, local restrictions, carjackings, etc? You're not supposed to import a car older than five years, I think, but diplomats can usually get a waiver for older cars. Most Kuwaitis drive SUVs and other big cars, and the speed at which people drive and the number of accidents will make you want a big car. We have a little Toyota Corolla and it suits us fine. You can get parts and service for most American and Japanese cars here.

Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left? Right.

Are local trains, buses, and taxis safe? Affordable? There are no trains. Taxis are pretty good and not too expensive. Buses are hit or miss—if you can manage to flag one down. This is the kind of place, though, where you would want to have a car.

What is the best way to make phone calls back home? Get a Voice-Over-IP phone! Otherwise, you can get calling cards on the local economy.

Do you have any recommendations regarding cell phones? Both cell phone companies, Wataniya and MTC, are pretty decent, and you'll find an amazing selection of the newest cell phones here. If you have an unlocked GSM world phone, you should be able to use it.

Items you would ship if you could do it again: Nothing really; you can get everything here. I'd bring more personal decorative and household items, only because everything is so expensive here, and there's not much to buy in Kuwait in the way of "crafts" with local flavor. Also, apartment buildings tend to have tall ceilings, so there is a lot of wall space.

Availability and cost of domestic help: Cheap, plentiful and reliable. Mostly Indian, Filipino and Sri Lankan.

How much of the local language do you need to know for daily living? Not much. The third-country nationals keep the country running, so the common language is really English. It's good to know some Arabic if you want to socialize with Kuwaitis, but it's not absolutely necessary. It wouldn't hurt to know some Hindi, Tagalog, Urdu or Farsi as well.

English-language religious services available? Denominations? Yes, Protestant and Catholic services.

English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost? Two daily Kuwaiti English language newspapers provide decent local and limited international coverage. You can get home delivery of the International Herald Tribune for about $100 a year. A couple of satellite TV options are available; both include CNN and other English news programs, movie channels, American sitcoms and more. Cost is about $30 a month, but some apartment buildings provide satellite service for free.

Internet access cost and quality: Dial-up is fairly cheap, about $15/month, and you can also buy prepaid dial-up cards. DSL is a bit expensive, about $100 a month for 512 KB, but the price should come down soon with more competition.
Overvoiew of the city of Kuwait

Size of expat community: Of the 2.6 million people in Kuwait, only about 950,000 are Kuwaiti, so most of people in the country are expats. There are around about 10,000 Americans here: contractors, oil workers, teachers, diplomats, etc. The largest expat community is Indian, followed by Filipino.

Morale among expats: Pretty good, at least among Westerners.

Are there decent job opportunities for expats on the local economy? There are some, but you really have to make connections. The gold-rush of the post-Iraq liberation period has died down, so you can't just come here and expect to make money like so many people previously did. Oil sector employees, technology people, and teachers shouldn't have problems finding jobs.

Entertaining/social life: Entertaining is easy, given that you can buy just about anything at the grocery stores and it's cheap to hire help. Most people have larger events and even smaller dinner parties catered. There's a thriving black market in liquor and most diplomats have it, so there will be parties that serve alcohol. Just keep in mind that technically it's illegal in this country and you will be thrown in jail—and possibly deported—if you're caught drinking and driving or being drunk in public.

Dress code at work and in public: Suit and tie for diplomats; a bit more casual for others.

Any health concerns? What is the quality of medical care available? Good medical care, decent hospitals and clinics. Most Kuwaitis go to the US for advanced medical care because their government pays for that, but the local services are getting better. The biggest health concern is probably getting into an auto accident.

Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)? Limited vet services are available. That doesn't stop people from having lots of cats and dogs, though.

You can leave behind your: heavy winter parka, earmuffs, gloves, and snowshoes, although in the coldest months I did wear a scarf. It gets colder than you think.

But don't forget your: light summer wear plus some decent cold-but-not-so-cold-weather clothes. Bring scuba gear, tennis rackets and other sporting goods if you've got them.

Weather patterns? Hot, hotter and hottest. Summer can get up to about 130; very dry; some dust storms. It's quite hot from May-October. Winter can actually get rainy and cold, but it won't ever snow. It can get down to freezing at night for a couple of months

Can you save money? Yes, if you don't go out to the fancy restaurants and malls all the time.

What can you spend it on? Just about everything that you could buy in a nice mall in the US; also carpets if you are interested. Traveling outside of Kuwait is our biggest expense.
Seaside view

Knowing what you now know, would you still go there? Yes, definitely. Kuwait is a pretty comfortable place to live. Many people choose to extend their time here beyond their contracts.

Recommended fiction related to this city: While it's not really about Kuwait, Abdelrahman Munif's fictional account of an Arab country going through the discovery of oil, Cities of Salt, is a good read and gives you an idea of where this country comes from.

Recommended nonfiction related to this city:
The Reign of Mubarak Al-Sabah, Shaykh of Kuwait 1896-1915
Kuwait, 1950-1965: Britain, the Al-Sabah, and Oil
Sabah Al-Salim Al Sabah: Amir of Kuwait 1965-1977

Any other comments: You can live very well in Kuwait. If you are really interested in a unique cultural experience, keep in mind that it is difficult here and you will have to be very proactive. You'll need to have a little patience, a little creativity, and really good driving skills, but you can have a great time.

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Reflections on Kuwait - 1999
Links:

Arabian Gulf Yellow Pages
The Kuwait Times
Aiwakuwait (Search engine)
Kuwait Detailed Map
Reading

Nonfiction Lonely Planet Bahrain, Kuwait & Qatar by Gordon Robison, Paul Greenway
Desert Victory : The War for Kuwait -- by Norman Friedman
Invasion Kuwait : (An English Woman's Tale) -- by Jehan S. Rajab
By Joan Ochi
(Joan was affiliated with the US Embassy. This contribution was written in the winter of 1999, 3 months after arriving.)

Kuwait has a population of about 2 million. Less than half are native Kuwaitis; the rest are foreign workers, most from the Philippines and the Near East. There are roughly 8000 Americans here (not including the troops!) as well as a significant number from Europe and Canada. Most of the "hard labor" jobs previously held by Kuwaitis in the country's pre-oil history are now done by foreign nationals from third world countries.

We arrived in September, when temperatures had dropped to the low 100’s from a high of 135 in July. All those frigid days in the north wishing for warmer climes have come back to haunt us. We can still swim outdoors, although the pools are now heated vs. in summer when they are "chilled." As of early December, we’re just moving into long pants.

You name the fast food, it’s here. When we tire of the usual McDonalds or Burger King fare, we can go local at the Chicken Tikka or Fresh 'n' Tasty Chicken, or our family's favorite, the local joints where men expertly slice off strips of grilled chicken and roll them in pita bread to make delicious shwarma. With some fresh hummus or smoky eggplant mutabal, we have a complete meal for under $7. At the other end of the spectrum, the newly opened Starbucks has become the place for young Kuwaitis to sip coffee, see and be seen.

We can see the latest in western cinema. We’ve even tried the local drive-in theatre. However, censorship frequently takes its toll on the story line. Anything rated R in the US for kissing or sex is definitely a target for the censors' zealous scissors. On the other hand, violence and gore is okay, which explains the popularity of Stallone-type action-adventure flicks. Some friends reported that "Antz," the American-made, animated story of insects, was censored when one bug was giving another mouth-to-mouth resuscitation.

Water Towers
Photo by Galen R. Frysinger
from website www.galen-frysinger.org

Anyway, Iraqi crises notwithstanding, life here is fairly quiet and comfortable. Our life -- as with many expatriate families here--revolves around the beach club, operated by the Radisson SAS Hotel. Most people agree this is one of the best things in Kuwait -- a beautiful swim club by the sea, ringed by mature trees -- where if you squeeze your eyes you can almost imagine you are floating in the Caribbean somewhere versus sitting in the middle of the desert a few hundred miles from the Iraqi border. The kids love the SAS Club -- they are almost guaranteed to see someone they know. Since corporate memberships or deep pockets are the usual ways into such clubs, they have become havens for privileged expatriates of many nationalities who find their quality of life greatly improved by having such facilities at their disposal.

What strikes us most about Kuwait is how life here is a fascinating combination of the eastern exotic and the American mundane. For example: the wailing cry of the Moslem muezzin (call to prayer) emanating from the local mosques is as ubiquitous as the incessant trill of the mobile phone. Supermarkets are chock full of western convenience products and snack foods like Oreos, Cheerios, and Fritos -- no "Bacos," though, because of the religious ban on pork, but locals and expats alike can choose from a wide selection of turkey ham or turkey bacon. Dignified Kuwaiti men in "dishdashas" (floor length white robes), speed down modern highways in their Caprice Classics or the latest sports utility vehicles, as the women in black abayas and headscarves stroll through exclusive, glittering malls, where chic shops display slinky, revealing dresses. And on and on...

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Real Answers to Real Questions

Travel time to post from Europe or the US (check flight schedules with Expedia): From the East Coast of the US, about 13-14 hours not including layovers. Most people go through a European gateway: London (British Air), Amsterdam (KLM), or Frankfurt (Lufthansa). The most common schedule is to take an overnight flight from the US to Europe, then transfer to the Kuwait leg in the mid/late afternoon, putting you into Kuwait anytime between 8 pm and midnight. Another consideration, if you can swing it, is to spend a whole day and a half in Europe. We used the time to get outdoors to try to lessen the impact of jet lag once we got to Kuwait.

Average Daily Commute: By Western standards, the commute time is not really an issue. Most people live in areas surrounding the Embassy, so 15-20 minutes is about average. HOWEVER, if you happen to try to leave for work right before school starts (7:30) be prepared for traffic jams and a long commute--that can be twice as long as a non-rush-hour commute.

Pollution Index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy): Most of the time it doesn't seem bad, except during the extreme heat of the summer, when winds in the desert occasionally cause nasty dust storms, and visibility is poor. You can see the dust particles floating around and taste them, too. Gas Stations recently switched over to selling unleaded gas almost exclusively, but there are still a lot of big, gas guzzling vehicles around (the Chevy Caprice Classic is extremely popular).

US Embassy compound housing

Apartments or Houses with Yards? Most Embassy families have large houses ("villas") with some sort of outdoor space. It takes a fair amount of effort to keep a "green" yard going, due to the heat -- but gardeners are readily available for reasonable rates. Most singles/couples without kids live in large apartments, often with patio areas or small balconies as their outdoor space. "House Envy" is not uncommon here since there is a fair amount of variance in the type of houses in the housing pool. However, an Embassy housing compound is slated to open sometime in mid-2000, which obviously will change things quite a bit. The compound is "townhouse" style, next door to the Embassy compound, and will have access to the Embassy facilities (pool, tennis courts, playground). It's uncertain who will be moving onto the compound. Rumor has it that the townhouses are smaller than the average house-in-a-regular-neighborhood today.

International Schools: Almost all Embassy/military families send their kids to the American School of Kuwait, which some feel has declined, quality-wise, in the last few years. There are other options, although most of the other American schools are more heavily populated by Kuwaitis and other Arab nationals than Americans. The various British Schools offer another alternative (a large number of British families send their children to The English School, which is pre-K through 8th grade).

Preschool Available: There are several preschool options, but many require full-time attendance. There are several English-speaking Montessori schools that have good reputations. The British School of Kuwait has a "creche" (nursery) open to children from about age 1-4, and you can choose to send your child(ren) one or more days a week (cost about $20/day in 2000). The American School also offers a preschool option, but it is every day, only three hours, and fairly expensive.

Daycare Available: Most families, whether or not the spouse works outside the home, employ full-time, often live-in, maids. Most maids are "third country" nationals, hailing primarily from India, Sri Lanka, and the Phillippines. The cost for full time care (including occasional or frequent evening babysitting) ranges from, on average, $250 to $400 a month. You may need to "sponsor" your domestic employee for a visa, which has a cost attached to it (some diplomatic personnel are exempt).

Price of a Big Mac: ~ $2.50

American Fast Food Available? Kids are in Happy Meal heaven here. You name it, it's here: McDonalds, Burger King, Pizza Hut, Dominos, Baskin-Robbins, Hardees, Kentucky Fried Chicken, A&W (home of the famous "Root" drink...remember, this is a dry country!!!). There are also many of the next-tier-up casual dine-in restaurants (Chilis, Applebees and TGI Fridays).

Food and Groceries: Plentiful and a wide selection. The Sultan Center is a chain of western style supermarkets, about the size of an average sized Safeway in the US. They sell groceries as well as household items (comparable to what you might find at a Target). A large selection of American and European products are available (including chocolate chips, cake mixes, canned frosting, Pringles...), subject to occasional/frequent shortages. So, if there is something you absolutely cannot live without, bring it with you or buy lots when you see it in the store. Keep in mind, too, that the prohibition against alcohol extends to food products like vanilla extract, certain vinegars, and good quality mustards. Pork and pork products are also forbidden.

The Sultan Center also has good quality produce, meat and poultry, fish, deli items, hot prepared foods, and bakery items. Prices are higher than middle-America, but only slightly higher than the major metropolitan areas in the US. Neighborhood cooperative markets are alternatives to supermarkets, and also stock a wide selection. Prices at coops are slightly cheaper, but the lines are usually longer, and often prices, etc. are written only in Arabic. Those with PX privileges can shop at (the army base) Camp Doha's PX (lots of snack and ready-to-eat foods; sundries, over-the-counter American brand medications, some clothing and sporting equipment, videos, CDs). Camp Doha is about 40-45 minutes from the Embassy.

Domestic Help Available? Yes--see "Daycare" above.

English-Language Newspaper/TV? Two major English language dailies, which provide local coverage as well as lots of news "off the wire" (so you don't miss out on all your Hollywood gossip). The Kuwait Times, one of these papers, has a website: http://www.paaet.edu.kw/ktimes/

Most Embassy homes have CNN/MTV, and additional satellite channels (Showtime, Orbit) are available for a fee (not cheap...minimum about $50/month). Military homes have the Armed Forces Network.

Cable TV Available: Yes, see above.

Cheap, Reliable Internet Access Available? Reliable? Usually. Cheap? No. The cheapest I've seen is about $33/month for 10-15 hours of access plus additional per minute fees beyond the 10 hours. Some organizations, such as the American Women's League, offer a slightly discounted monthly rate for unlimited access (about $66/month). Connections, once you make them, are decent (but often it may be difficult to connect during peak times--i.e. prime-time evening hours). Many people use the Internet to make free/inexpensive phone calls using net2phone.com or dialpad.com.

What are Wages Like on the Local Economy? Lower than in the US, although there are no income or other taxes borne by the employee. Western-trained professionals can expect to earn a minimum of about $1200/month. Although I don't know for sure, I believe salaries in certain sectors (e.g. oil) pay fairly well. Employees in Kuwaiti organizations often encounter standard salary and compensation differentials between Kuwaitis and non-Kuwaitis -- another example of the way nationality impacts society here.

Entertaining Expected? Depends on your job as to whether representational entertaining is expected. However, because cultural events and public entertainment are extremely limited, the social circuit is very busy and most people entertain regularly.

Medical Officer at Post? Yes, the Embassy Health Clinic employs a Family Nurse Practitioner (the Medical Officer), and two part-time nurses (all North Americans). Regional medical/psychiatric officers occasionally visit Post.

Pet Care Available? Yes, there is a "vet" that has occasional clinics at Camp Doha (the Army base).

Morale at Post: Good; the community is fairly active. However, two evacuations (one voluntary, one voluntary-turned-ordered) in the last two years have negatively impacted morale (the second evacuation came a week before Christmas 1999, during Operation Desert Fox, thus separating most families over the holidays). Cultural activities and other diversions are extremely limited in Kuwait, but if you enjoy "making your own fun" and entertaining, you'll generally do fine. Keep in mind however that Kuwait, although it has a more liberal society than that of neighboring Saudi Arabia, is still somewhat restrictive. For example, most public dancing and alcohol are prohibited.

You Can Leave Behind Your: Ski jackets and long underwear (but, in winter it is amazing how 65 degrees F. can seem chilly, so do bring some cold weather gear--being evacuated via London in December also necessitated some warm clothing).

But Don't Forget Your: Swimsuits (several for the kids, since that is a mainstay in most families' recreational activities. For the adults, conservative is best), sun tan lotion, and beach gear. Long, cool, clothing (linen is good, and as most people have domestic help, you don't even need to worry about ironing it!).

Weather Patterns: Very, very hot from about mid-April through mid-October--in mid summer, temps up in the 120s and 130s are normal. November-March is very pleasant, sunny, warm days, and cool nights with occasional rain.

Can You Save Money at Post? Yes, if you don't travel. However, many people find travel to be important for counteracting the sense of insularity that can set in here. And, since you basically have to fly to get out of Kuwait, airfare can get expensive especially if you are travelling as a family with kids. If both spouses work (even if one is part-time), you probably can save money (depending on your lifestyle and how frequently you go carpet (or gold) shopping).

Knowing What You Now Know, Would You Still Go There? Yes. With the exception of the evacuation, which was very disruptive, this has not been a very difficult hardship post. The heat, while very oppressive, is manageable as everything is air-conditioned. Be prepared for very aggressive, occasionally very bad, driving although most roads are decently maintained and modern. The standard of living for Western expats is very good, and you can find almost anything you need, material-wise at least. I'd say this has been a good tour with small children--going to the pool most weekends is just their speed. Older kids, especially teenagers, may be bored.