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TOURISM IN JAPAN GUIDE

Where to Go in Japan

Hiroshima
When the first atomic bomb exploded over Hiroshima on 6 August 1945, the city became an immediate symbol for the horrors of war. Today, Hiroshima has several moving reminders of that day of utter devastation.

The centerpiece is called the A-Bomb Dome - it's the skeleton of a domed building that survived the blast. Across the street is Peace Park, where you'll find the Cenotaph for the Victims (it contains all of their names) and the Atomic Bomb Museum. The museum's photographs are the most compelling (and perhaps most horrifying): They show the actual effects of radiation on human flesh.

The most moving monument is the Children's Peace Memorial, which celebrates the desire for long life and happiness, traditionally expressed in the folding of paper cranes. You may see groups of schoolchildren adding more paper cranes, strung together in rainbow garlands, to the millions that already surround the base of the memorial.

In the years since the war, Hiroshima has been rebuilt into a fairly typical industrial city (Mazda has a huge factory there). You'll find covered shopping arcades, lively department stores (with ardent consumers) and a helpful information office. Hiroshima is a good city for walking, but it also has an efficient streetcar system that provides announcements of stops in both Japanese and English. Just be sure to get the correct streetcar number from your hotel's concierge before venturing out.

The island of Miyajima lies just off the coast from Hiroshima - a short ferry ride from the end of the streetcar line. The main reasons to go there are the solitude, the view and the Shrine of Itsukushima, which is built on wooden piers over the water. The shrine's torii (the huge gate at the entrance to a Shinto shrine) is out at the head of a bay - its orange paint, stunning against the blue water, has made this one of the most photographed places in Japan. (To get the best pictures, be there when the tide's in - the torii will look like it's floating.) The shrine was constructed in 593 to honor the fishing gods, and for centuries boats coming to the island had to pass under the torii. Today travelers often find lodging on Miyajima while visiting Hiroshima. Don't leave the island without sampling the locally made crackers.

Near the southwest tip of Honshu, about 50 mi/80 km west of Hiroshima, Hagi is an old castle town with a number of attractions. Though scenic ruins are all that's left of the castle, you can stroll through two neighborhoods of preserved samurai houses, some of them open to visitors. Horiuchi, with huge houses hidden behind picturesque ancient walls, was where the top rank lived; Jokamachi was home to the lower ranks. The town is also famous for exquisite tea-ceremony pottery. A score of kilns are still in operation, and many of the workshops are open to the public. If you have time, we recommend renting a bicycle and pedaling along the Aiba waterway, a tranquil old canal filled with colorful koi, or Japanese carp.

The most famous bridge in Japan, the Kintai-kyo, is found in Iwakuni, some 30 mi/45 km southwest of Hiroshima. Built in 1673, the Brocade Sash Bridge is composed of five gracefully arched spans. The bridge originally was meant for the use of samurai - all others were forbidden to step upon it. Hiroshima is 175 mi/280 km west of Osaka.

Ise-Shima National Park
This park is centered around the most sacred shrine in Japan and provides a fascinating glimpse into Japanese culture. For almost 2,000 years, the Grand Shrine of Ise has been where the imperial family has gone to seek advice from the gods. The Grand Shrine has two parts: Naiku (the shrine of the Shinto sun goddess) and Geku (the shrine of the earth god). Both are wooden buildings done in simple Japanese style. Every 20 years the Grand Shrine is torn down and replaced by an exact replica on an adjacent plot - this will happen again in 2003. What makes the site impressive isn't the architecture, but the reverence with which it is treated by the Japanese. Only priests are allowed within the walls, yet more than 1 million visitors go to the Grand Shrine every year. Kongoshoji is another interesting temple in the area, with a graceful moon bridge (so-named for its circular arch shape) and a trail lined with decorated poles that people have erected as memorials for deceased family members. Also nearby is Jingu Kaikan, the great hall where one of the country's largest sumo wrestling tournaments is held. 75 mi/ 120 km east of Osaka.

Kamakura
The impressive site in this ancient city and religious center is the photogenic Daibutsu, a giant 90-ton bronze statue of the Buddha. The statue has an amazing history: Cast in the 13th century, it originally was housed in a temple about a mile farther inland. In 1452, a giant tsunami washed the temple away and carried the Buddha to its present location! In addition to Daibutsu, the city also has 18 ancient shrines and 65 temples - Tsuregaoka Hachimangu and Kamakuragu are our favorite shrines; Kenchoji and Tokeiji our favorite temples. Be sure to see the Nagao Museum (traditional Japanese art) and the Modern Art Museum, designed by a Japanese student of Le Corbusier. You also can take a ride on the Enoden, a tiny, old train that runs from Kamakura to Fujisawa, just southwest of Yokohama - the train will give you a unique glimpse of the countryside (and some people's backyards). 30 mi/50 km south of Tokyo.

Kanazawa
Located on the remote coast of the Sea of Japan, this city isn't easy to reach. From Tokyo, there are only two direct trains per day - taking six hours - but it's well worth the effort. This classic castle town (though only the gate still stands) offers streets of samurai houses and two geisha quarters. Visit the Nomura Family House, an atmospheric old samurai residence, and stroll through the Higashi geisha district. An old geisha house called Shima is open to the public. Don't miss Kenrokuen, which was once the castle lord's private pleasure garden, now one of the most distinguished landscape gardens in the country. We like the gardens best early in the morning, before the crowds arrive (open at 7 am in summer, 8 am in winter). The city also has a long tradition of fine craftmanship. Watch the production of gold leaf at Yasue Gold Leaf Museum, pottery at Kosen Kiln and hand-painted silk kimono fabric at Saihitsu-an Silk-Dyeing Center. 180 mi/290 km northwest of Tokyo.

Koyasan
We almost hate to spread the word about this wonderful town perched high atop sacred Mt. Koya in southwestern Honshu. It's well known to the Japanese - thousands of Buddhist pilgrims make the rounds of its wealth of temples - but few Western visitors ever see it. In addition to the acres of religious architecture, Koyasan is also the site of Okunoin Cemetery, where Japan's highest-ranking dignitaries traditionally have been laid to rest: Tombs of samurai, lords, shoguns and emperors can be found among the 200,000 graves.

Half the pleasure of visiting Koyasan is getting there. The trip begins on the express Nankai electric railway from Osaka, passing through a beautiful gorge. Travelers then board a cog railway that ratchets itself up the steep mountain. The journey through stunning scenery is finished by auto (keep an eye out for shrines, stupas, pagodas and temples along the roadside). You're likely to stay in one of the dozens of temple inns, luxury houses that offer hot baths and vegetarian meals. Also in the vicinity is Katsuragi-cho (Fruit Town), where you can pay a small fee to pick your own grapes, kiwis and apples at public orchards. (You must eat your bounty while there.) Not too far from the orchards is the Negoroji Temple complex, interesting for its all-wood construction (though it once held 3,000 temples, only a few remain). 40 mi/65 km south of Osaka.

Kyoto
If you can visit only one city in Japan, Kyoto is the one. This ancient city (pop. 1,849,000) was the capital of Japan for more than a thousand years and still is considered the country's spiritual capital. Kyoto is graced with an abundance of temples, palaces, gardens and museums (as well as plenty of tourists, so expect crowds).

Try to budget three nights for Kyoto. However, if you're short on time, concentrate on three sites: the Golden Pavilion, Nijo Castle and the Kiyomizu Temple. You can see them all by city bus, but taxi fare between them is not prohibitively expensive.

The Golden Pavilion (Kinkaku-ji) is impressive: Each of its three stories reflects a different architectural attitude, but what most people remember is that it's covered in gold leaf. The small lake beside which it sits doubles the glimmer. No one goes inside, but you can (like everyone else) take pictures. Don't miss the classic teahouse that's nestled in the trees nearby - recently refurbished, it has a celebrated, rough-hewn central pillar.

At the 17th-century Nijo Castle, you can see the architecture change as you go from the most public spaces to the private chambers of the shogun. There's an imaginative security system, too: The floorboards were laid so they make the sound of a nightingale when walked upon. (That made eavesdropping impossible.)

Kiyomizu Temple, on a hillside at the east edge of the city, is famous both for its waterfall and for the stunning view from its vast wooden terrace. The temple is particularly beautiful in April, when cherry blossoms abound, and in November, when maple leaves show their color. After your visit, stroll through the narrow lanes of traditional houses and stores below the temple - the area is famed for its pottery shops.

Among the many other stops you should make in Kyoto is the Nanzen Temple, which has a pretty view of the city. From there, stroll down the Philosopher's Walk (a footpath along a canal lined with cherry trees) to the Ginkakuji (called the Silver Pavilion, though the plan to cover it in silver was never carried out). Ginkakuji has a pretty garden with a stylized version of Mt. Fuji crafted from sand. Another wonder is the Sanjusangendo, a hall built in 1266 that's famous for its 1,000-handed statue of Kannon, the sometimes goddess, sometimes god of compassion. The main statue in the hall is surrounded by 1,000 smaller statues of the same deity. If you can pull yourself away from the multifaceted Kannon, take a look at the statues of the 28 Faithful Followers, who are a bizarre mixture of animals and humans (the facial expressions are wild).

Kyoto also is famed for its rock gardens, with their carefully raked gravel and asymetrically placed stones. Among the best-known is the garden at Ryoanji Temple, with 15 rocks arranged in five groups on white sand. The design is said to symbolize a mother tiger and her cubs swimming toward a fearful dragon.

Visiting the Imperial Palace requires a "permit," but don't let that put you off. Foreigners need only turn up with their passports at the office in the Palace Park an hour or so before the free English-language tours (weekdays at 10 am and 2 pm), and admittance will be granted. The complex is impressive yet austere - it's hard to imagine emperors living in unheated wooden buildings.

At night, stroll through Pontocho, the traditional nighttime entertainment spot. This narrow little street may be the most romantic street in Japan. (You might even see a geisha scurrying to a theatrical performance.) Fans of Arthur Golden's novel Memoirs of a Geisha might like to stroll around the Gion neighborhood, where the story was set. It's also possible to be dressed and made up as a geisha in studios catering (mostly) to Japanese women. Contact the tourist office for details.

The Traditional and Japanese Arts Theater presents authentic demonstrations of flower arranging, court music, kyogen farces and the tea ceremony. We especially liked the National Museum, which exhibits ancient porcelain, lacquerware, swords and kimonos. If you'd like to buy modern versions of these crafts, stop by the Kyoto Handicraft Center, which has six floors of shops.

Even if you don't arrive in Kyoto by train, stop at one of the most dazzling spaces in Japan (or anywhere, for that matter) - the train station. By the time you get to the top of the 11-story escalator (you can get off at each level, or you can just keep going up and up), you realize they've built a mountain in the middle of the city. You'll find good restaurants and a very helpful information booth, too.

If you tire of the crowds, get a map from the tourist office and take one of the scenic mountain footpaths around the city. Arashiyama (to the northwest) and Ohara (to the northeast) are particularly pleasant areas to explore.

Those interested in temples should head south to Uji, home of the 1,000-year-old Byodoin Temple. The temple has a phoenix theme: The building is shaped like the mythical bird and has two bronze phoenixes perched on opposite sides of the roof (the originals are in the nearby Homotsukan Treasure House). The temple and the statue of Amitabha Buddha inside are considered national treasures. If it fits your schedule, ride on the bullet train between Kyoto and Tokyo - it really is fun. 30 mi/50 km northeast of Osaka.

Matsue
This city on the shore of Lake Shinji, famed for its gorgeous sunsets, has much to offer. Its sinister black castle is a 17th-century original - not a reconstruction - that broods down over moats lined with pine trees and a street of restored samurai houses. An enjoyable way to see this watery town is by boat tour through the canals. Hot springs and a couple of nice teahouses are additional treats in the area. Matsue's famous adopted son is Lafcadio Hearn, an Irish-American writer who settled there in the late 1800s, married a samurai's daughter and wrote 14 books that introduced Japanese culture to the Western world. Don't miss his residence (a charming samurai house) and the adjacent museum.

Also in the area, Izumo is home to the Izumo-o-taisha Shrine, the oldest in Japan. Tradition says that during the 10th month of the lunar calendar (late October-early November), all of Japan's 8 million Shinto gods vacation in this shrine. On both sides of the main shrine are long shelters that serve as "guest houses" for the visiting gods. The main shrine is one of the largest in the country. Matsue is 110 mi/180 km north of Hiroshima.

Mt. Fuji
This familiar snowcapped symbol of Japan is 12,388 ft/3,774 m high, but it does not require any special mountain-climbing skills or equipment to ascend. Five trails lead to the summit; each has 10 rest stops (called "stations") along the way. The vast majority of climbers take a bus halfway to the top and begin hiking from the fifth station (the climb from there to the summit takes 5-6 hours). Starting from the bottom is tricky because lower sections of the trails are signposted only in Japanese. Very basic dormitory accommodation is provided in shelters; bring as much food and water as you can carry to avoid prices bordering on extortion (US$3 for a pint/500 ml of water!). Though the hike is quite strenuous, we found it to be a fascinating encounter with this country.

For the best views (or only views, for that matter), be at the summit around sunrise - clouds cloak Fuji's peak by about 9 am. If you are climbing for the view, you'll have to hike up at night (take a flashlight and warm clothes) or overnight at one of the stations. Basic huts (meals provided) should be booked in advance through the Japan National Tourist Organization. Daytime hikers should avoid the trek on Sundays, when Japanese nature lovers clog the trails (don't be surprised by the mountains of litter along the way). The season for climbing is the beginning of July until the end of August.

Also nearby are the Fuji Five Lakes (beautiful scenery), the Izu Hanto Peninsula (hot springs resorts and villages) and the Seven Isles of Izu (tiny volcanic islands with beaches and good snorkeling). 70 mi/115 km southwest of Tokyo.

Nagasaki
This ancient port city was the second city destroyed by an atomic bomb in World War II. Today, the city on Kyushu, the southernmost of Japan's major islands, is a thriving industrial port and a pleasant mixture of East and West. There are a number of sites memorializing the destruction that occurred on 9 August 1945: the must-see Atomic Bomb Museum, the ruins of Urakami Cathedral (once Asia's largest church), Peace Park and a black stone obelisk that marks ground zero. Other sites in the city include the Glover Mansion (the setting of Puccini's Madame Butterfly), which has a lovely garden providing some of the best views of the area, and Oranda Hill (beautiful flowers and a nice view). If you happen to be there during the summer Obon (Festival of the Dead) season (mid August), stick around to watch the Dragon Boat races. Twenty-eight eight-man teams aboard sleek canoes paddle measured (but furious) strokes in races, chanting to the beat of drums and gongs. A day trip can be made to the village of Arita, known for its distinctive handmade porcelain.

Beyond Nagasaki, there are several other places on Kyushu that are worth a look. Beppu has exciting nightlife and is a great place to relax in a hot-springs spa (complete with geysers and mud baths). When visiting the fumaroles and geysers in the Kannawa section of Beppu, don't miss the shrine devoted to fertility and procreation located near the Ashiya Hotel: It's like a combination museum/funhouse, with historical, cultural and whimsical exhibits pertaining to sex.

Kagoshima is known for its distinctive pottery, which comes in dark tones or white with elaborate patterns. Fukuoka, about a three-hour train ride north of Nagasaki, is where silk and Hakata dolls are made (plan an overnight there). Other Kyushu sites worth mentioning are Mt. Aso National Park, site of the largest active volcano in the world; Takachiho Gorge, the legendary cradle of Japanese civilization; and Kirishima Yaku National Park, a chain of volcanoes with excellent hiking trails. Nagasaki is 594 mi/956 km southwest of Tokyo.

Nagoya
Japan's fourth-largest city (pop. 3,157,000) was almost completely destroyed during the war, but today it's a bustling city. One day there should give visitors enough time to tour the Noritake china factory, the Ando Cloisonne factory and the Atsuta Shrine (which has part of the sacred imperial regalia, though it's kept out of sight of visitors). The 17th-century wooden castle in Nagoya was largely destroyed by U.S. bombing raids - the modern replica is cast in concrete. Original feudal castles in the area can be seen on excursions, and Nagoya also can be used as the jumping-off point for day trips to Mikimoto Island, where you can watch pearl diving and buy pearls; the Kiso River area, where the adventurous can ride the rapids in flat-bottomed boats guided by oarsmen; and Meiji Village, a living museum of 19th-century buildings from throughout Japan, including the reassembled lobby of the original Imperial Hotel, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. Another possible excursion is to Inuyama, which has the oldest surviving fortress in Japan, Inuyama Castle (built in 1440 and preserved in its original state).

Takayama, about 70 mi/115 km northeast of Nagoya, is an isolated country town known as "Little Kyoto." Lack of farmland in this mountainous region forced residents to turn to crafts as a means of support, and the town still is known for woodwork and lacquerware. Takayama itself is best seen by foot, bicycle or rickshaw; it's filled with shrines, bridges, museums, breweries, boutiques and markets. Don't miss the Shorenji Temple (built in 1504) just outside town - the garden and setting are breathtaking. Also spend at least half a day at Hida Folk Village, about a 20-minute walk from town. It's a collection of towering thatch-roofed houses and other buildings brought in from around the region, and locals demonstrate wood carving, weaving and other local handicrafts there. Other nearby attractions in the so-called Japan Alps include the Shirakawa-go area (lovely scenery and more thatch-roofed villages), Matsumoto (famed black samurai castle) and Nagano (ski area and site of the 1998 Winter Olympics). Nagoya is 70 mi/115 km east of Kyoto.

Nara
The first capital of Japan, Nara makes an interesting day trip from Kyoto. The ancient architecture of Nara is well worth seeing, especially the Todai Temple. The temple qualifies for two Guinness Book of World Records mentions: Its Buddha is the largest bronze in the world, and its main structure is the world's largest wooden building. (It's dark inside the building, so the Buddha is difficult to photograph - buy postcards, instead.) The temple sits in a huge park where small deer have free rein: They mingle with visitors, mooching biscuits that you can buy from vendors for a few yen. These deer can get fairly aggressive: One ate not only the biscuit we offered, but also a big chunk of our city map!

Another delight is Kasuga Shrine, which has thousands of paper lanterns. The shrine is next to Kofukuji, a complex built in 1426 with a dramatic five-story pagoda. The Nara National Museum, renowned for its ancient sword collection, hosts special exhibitions of priceless antiquities in May and November.

Nara is not just old pagodas, though. Along its pedestrian-friendly streets you'll find open-air souvenir shops, as well as department stores selling the latest fashions and music. Make sure to explore Nara-machi, a quiet neighborhood of old wooden merchant houses now sprinkled with antique shops, galleries and small museums.

Just outside Nara is Horyuji, one of the most important temples in Japan. The temple was built in 607 by Prince Shotoku (whose picture appears on the ?10,000 currency), and some of the original structures are still standing. 20 mi/30 km east of Osaka or 25 mi/45 km south of Kyoto.

Nikko
This city, set amid mountains, usually is seen as a day trip from Tokyo. Numerous shrines and pagodas are nearby, the most well-known being Toshogu Shrine. It was built for a shogun and is an unusual mixture of Confucian, Zen and Shinto architecture. Toshogu is the original site of the see-no-evil, hear-no-evil, speak-no-evil monkeys (you will find them carved on one of the gates). Also in this area are two waterfalls (Kegon and Dragon's Head Cascade) and Nikko Edo Mura, a theme-park replica of a feudal village that offers martial arts performances. It's popular with children. Nikko Western Village, another amusement park, is interesting for its rather goofy depictions of the U.S. Old West.

If you go, watch out for the growing population of monkeys roaming the area - some have identified the contents of vehicles and backpacks as handy sources of snack food. These monkeys can be fairly aggressive, and they've been known to climb through open windows to ransack the contents of cars and rooms. Because of concerns about an unchecked increase in their population, Nikko's city government has imposed a ban on feeding them. It's best not to get too close - they may look cuddly, but they have sharp teeth. 75 mi/120 km north of Tokyo.

Osaka
Osaka is ugly - at least on the surface. It's a jostled mass of concrete, glass, sparse greenery and constant rush-hour crush all seemingly strung together by a web of overhead telephone and electrical wires. You'll find little regard for architectural harmony throughout the city (everything from a centuries-old castle to a futuristic UFO-like sports dome). But peel back Osaka's hideous mask and you reveal a city of vibrant and distinct districts and neighborhoods.

What's more, the new construction and renovation of old buildings and parks have breathed fresh life into the place. This look to the future makes for a nice contrast to the city's ancient political and religious past. Since the city was established as Japan's first capital in the 7th century, it has always been a place of culture - a fact greatly overlooked even by Japanese. Many of the nation's arts originated there: the tea ceremony, flower arrangement and the performing arts of Bunraku, Kabuki and Noh. Today, it's known for its writers, artists, musicians and comedians.

Ryukyu Islands
Once the site of some of the most hard-fought battles of World War II, today the Ryukyu Islands are a relaxing blend of Asian and South Pacific culture. Naha, on Okinawa, is the capital of the islands. While the capital has a good vegetable market and a couple of interesting sites - including the ruins of the Shuri Castle and the Sogen Temple - the main reason for visiting the islands is to enjoy the beaches and assorted water sports, including diving. The smaller islands of Ishigaki, Miyako and Iriomote can be visited by boat from Okinawa. We liked Ishigaki and Iriomote, but found Miyako to be a bit too touristy. Those interested in World War II history should go to Tomigusuku on Okinawa, where the Imperial Navy had its underground headquarters and where 4,000 officers and men committed suicide rather than surrender to U.S. forces. Plan three nights to see these islands. Okinawa lies 960 mi/1,545 km southwest of Tokyo.

Sapporo
Sapporo is familiar to millions around the world as the site of the 1972 Winter Olympics - and to millions more as the home of the Sapporo beer brewery. This Hokkaido island city of 1,984,000 is one of the most modern in Japan (most buildings are less than 100 years old). In our opinion, it's not worth going out of your way to see - unless a visit coincides with the February Snow Festival in Odori Park. At that time, residents make giant ice carvings that last for several weeks (Sapporo is not a place for those with thin blood - it's easily as cold as Montreal in the winter). Other attractions include the Ainu Museum, which depicts the life and culture of Hokkaido's indigenous peoples, Daisetsusan National Park and the nearby Noboribetsu Spa. Take the train from Tokyo and you'll go through the Seikan Tunnel (at 34 mi/55 km, it's one of the longest underwater tunnels in the world). 515 mi/830 km northeast of Tokyo.

Shikoku
This island across the Inland Sea from Okayama has been a pilgrimage site for the past 1,000 years. Every spring and fall devout Buddhists begin a two-month pilgrimage, visiting each of the island's 88 temples on foot. The island is very picturesque and off the beaten track - a look at the "real Japan." Dogo Onsen, near Matsuyama, is a lovely spa. We enjoyed tea and sweets in the elegant private rooms after relaxing in the marble baths. Nearby, Uchiko is a perfectly preserved village that once produced candles used in every Japanese home. The opulence of the buildings is a testament to the wealth this industry brought. 60 mi/95 km southwest of Osaka.

Tokyo
Although Japan is in the midst of a recession, Tokyo is vibrant and alive. One of the world's main economic centers - and most populous metropolitan areas - Tokyo is a city that presents a different view of itself at every turn. Starkly modern, it becomes a jewel box at night with a glittering display of neon and fluorescent lights. But you can retreat to quiet cobbled lanes and sculpted gardens for the harmony, scale and simplicity the Japanese have prized for centuries. Look down one street and you'll see nothing but neon and concrete, but around the corner you may find yourself in the bonsai-lined courtyard of a traditional inn.

Several times in history, Tokyo has been almost destroyed - by fires, earthquakes, floods and war - but it has always rebuilt itself. That might explain why it retains only vestiges of Old Japan. You'll find an amazing hodgepodge of old and modern architecture, often side by side, and a maze of streets where even taxi drivers lose their way. You can get utterly lost just a few moments' walk from your hotel. It is a safe place, however, and a relatively good city to be lost in, with kobans (police boxes) interspersed throughout the metropolis and shy but friendly people who almost always help if you ask.

Because of the expense and the language barrier, most travelers to Tokyo have gone there for business. It has been a place to do things, not to see things. But given the current economic situation, hotel and tour prices have dropped, making the city more attractive to leisure travelers. With some planning, these days it's possible to visit Tokyo on a reasonable budget.

Yokohama
This important port city was the first place where European and U.S. traders were allowed to settle in Japan. Much of ancient Yokohama was destroyed by an earthquake in 1923 and by bombing during World War II, but today the area bustles with ships from all over the world loading and unloading cargo; it's possible to take a harbor tour by boat for a firsthand inspection. There's not a lot for tourists to see and do in Yokohama, but among the city sights are the Silk Museum (in the Silk Center) and the Yamate Museum, with exhibits relating to the city's foreign community. Stroll the streets of Chinatown and then see the view from the Marine Tower. Shoppers may want to visit the upscale Motomachi district - prices there are lower than Tokyo's. In general, Yokohama is less hectic than Tokyo, and there are several peaceful places of refuge, among them Yamashita Park, Sankeien Gardens and the International Cemetery, which offers nice views of the sunset. Plan one full day in Yokohama. 20 mi/32 km southwest of Tokyo on Tokyo Bay.

Accomodations in Japan

HOTELS:

Hotels are ‘Western’ or ‘Japanese’ style. Western-style accommodation (ranging from deluxe hotels to pensions) are much like any modern US or European hotel. Japanese-style hotels (ryokan) provide exciting new experiences: guests receive kimonos and wooden clogs and rooms come equipped with Japanese bathtubs and paper sliding doors. Many non-obligatory extras are available. Service charges of 10 to 20 per cent are added to the bill. For more details contact the Japan Ryokan Association (website: www.ryokan.or.jp). Further information about other Japanese accommodation can be obtained by contacting the Japan Hotel Association, Shin Otemachi Building, 2-2-1 Otemachi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0004 (tel: (3) 3279 2706; fax: (3) 3274 5375; website: www.j-hotel.or.jp); or Japan Hotel Network, Hanagashima Cho, Sesemachi 1256-1-109, Sato Mansion 109, Miyazaki City (fax: (985) 322 213; e-mail: jhn@japanhotel.net; website: www.japanhotel.net); or The Japan National Tourist Organisation (see Contact Addresses section). For Tokyo Hotels specifically, contact the Tokyu Hotel Chain Co, Ltd, 10-3 Nagata-Cho, 2-Chome, Chiyoda-Ku, Tokyo 100-0014, Japan (tel: (3) 3581 8655; fax: (3) 3264 0225; website: www.tokyuhotel.com). Grading: No accommodation grading system operates in Japan.

GUEST-HOUSES:

Minshuku, often found in resorts and vacation spots, are the Japanese equivalent of guest home-type lodging. Rates are moderate, and visitors should expect considerably fewer amenities than ryokan or western-style hotels. Visitors are expected to fold up their bedding in the morning and stow it away in a closet, and towels are usually not provided. No shoes are worn in the house as slippers are provided. Small gifts or 5 per cent may be given with the bill.

YOUTH HOSTELS:

There are roughly 400 youth hostels throughout Japan. Many require visitors to be a member of the International Youth Hostel Federation, although a guest card can be bought in advance at the Tokyo National Headquarters. Contact Japan Youth Hostels Inc, 2-20-7 Misaki-Cho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0006 (tel: (3) 3288 1417; fax: (3) 3288 1248; e-mail: info@jyh.jp; website: www.jyh.or.jp).

PENSIONS:

These are ‘Bed & Breakfast’ style lodges which offer a comfortable atmosphere. They are often located near ski resorts, lakesides or in more rural areas. For further information contact the Japan National Tourist Organisation (see Contact Addresses section).

SHUKUBO:

Some temples offer temple lodging (Shukubo). Guests may have to join in the routines of the monks (getting up early, chanting, doing chores and so on) and facilities may be basic. The JNTO can provide a list (see Contact Addresses section).

Accommodation tax: As of October 2002, the Tokyo Metropolitan Government introduced an ‘Accommodation Tax’ on hotels and inns around the city that charge over ¥10,000 per room. The tax will be ¥100 on rooms costing between ¥10,000 and ¥15,000 per night, and ¥200 for rooms costing over ¥15,000. For more information check online (website: www.metro.tokyo.jp).

Travel in Japan - Internal

AIR:

Japan Airlines (JL), All Nippon Airways, Japan Air System and several other airlines maintain an extensive network covering Japan proper and its islands. Tokyo’s domestic airport is Haneda (HND). A monorail service runs from Hamamatsu-cho to Haneda. One international airline, China Airlines, serves Haneda. Other international flights to and from Haneda are made via Tokyo, Osaka, Fukuoka or Nagoya, Main routes are Tokyo–Sapporo; Tokyo–Fukuoka; Tokyo–Osaka; and Tokyo–Naha.
Tickets can be purchased at automatic machines at Tokyo International Airport’s domestic departure counter and at Osaka International Airport.

SEA:

There are frequent services by high-speed boat, ferry or hydrofoil to Japan’s islands. Popular routes include Tokoyo–Hokkaido (in the north) and Tokyo–Okinawa (in the south). Major sea routes include Awaji Island: Akashi–Iwaya; Shodo Island: Himeji–Fukuda, Okayama–Tonosho and Takamatsu–Tonosho; Shiraishijima and Manabejima Islands: Kasaoka–Shiraishijima–Manabejima; Ikuchijima and Omishama Islands: Mihara–Setoda. Bullet train services travel frequently to ports.

RAIL:

The Japan Railways Group (JR) runs one of the best rail networks in the world, and is widely used for both business and pleasure. Express and ‘limited express’ trains are best for intercity travel. Very frequent services run on the main routes. Shinkansen, the ‘Bullet Trains’, are the fastest, with compartments for wheelchair passengers, diners and buffet facilities. Supplements are payable on the three classes of express train and in ‘Green’ (first-class) cars of principal trains, for which reservations must be made. Other types of train include Tokkyu (Limited Express), Kyuko (Express), Kaisoku (Rapid Train) and Futsu (Local Train). For short-distance trains, tickets can only be bought at vending machines outside train stations.

Discount fares: The Japan Rail Pass, an economical pass for foreign tourists which must be purchased before arrival in Japan, can be obtained from Japan Airlines (JL users only) or authorised travel agents and agencies. It can be used on all trains except the new ‘Nozomi’ super express trains, and also on Japan Rail buses and Japan Rail ferries. A Japan Rail Pass brochure is available from the Japan National Tourist Organisation (see Contact Addresses section). A 7-day basic pass currently costs ¥28,300. For travellers without a Japan Rail Pass, there are various other discount schemes in operation including a ten per cent discount at any JR Group Hotel. Other rail passes include the JR East Pass, JR West Rail Pass, Sanyo Area Pass, Kansai Area Pass and the JR Kyushu Rail Pass. For details of other discount fares, contact the Japan National Tourist Organisation (see Contact Addresses section).

ROAD:

Driving in Japan is complicated for those who cannot read the language as it will be a problem to understand the road signs. Traffic in cities is often congested. Traffic drives on the left. The Keiyo Highway, Tohoku Expressway, Tomei Expressway and the Meishin Expressway link Japan’s major Pacific coastal cities, passing through excellent scenery. Documentation: An International Driving Permit is required.

URBAN:

Public transport is well developed, efficient and crowded. The underground systems and privately run suburban rail services, which serve all the main cities, are very convenient but best avoided in rush hours. Tokyo also has a good network of trams. Bus: These can be confusing and are best used with someone who knows the system. Otherwise visitors should get exact details of their destination from the hotel. Fares systems are highly automated, but passes may be available. On buses, payment may be made on leaving. Metro: All of Japan’s largest cities have subway systems. Tokyo has two underground systems: the Teito Rapid Transit Authority (TRTA) runs the Eidan Subway with eight lines, and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government (TBTMG) operates four lines. A variety of tickets can be bought including a monthly open pass, 1-day open ticket, 14 tickets for the price of ten, and a Tokyo Combination ticket; this can be bought 6 months in advance and entitles the passenger to unlimited travel on the subway, JR rail and Toei buses for 1 day within the 6 months. Kyoto also has its own subway system with two major lines: the Karasuma and Tozai lines. Kyoto Sightseeing Passes can be bought enabling unlimited rides on buses and the underground. Taxi: These can be expensive, particularly in rush hour (0730-0930 and 1700-1800). There is a minimum charge for the first 2km (1.2 miles) and there is a time charge in slow traffic. It is advisable for visitors to have prepared in advance the name and address of their destination in Japanese writing, together with the name of some nearby landmark; a map may also help. Hotels can provide this service.

Source : iexplore