Samsam
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 Posted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 11:41 am Post subject: |
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Hi
Some FAQ i found on the web, should be usefull if you wanna migrate to cyprus
(The contributor has lived in Nicosia for two years.)
Travel time to post from Europe or the US (check flight schedules with Expedia): Eight hours from DC; five hours from London.
Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)? Moderate to Unhealthy, depending on the time of day and how many cars are on the road.
Security concerns? So far so good. This is a relatively safe city. You wouldn't want to walk anywhere, but that is because of lack of sidewalks and crazy drivers.
Housing (typical types, locations, commute time): Mostly houses with small yards. There are some apartments. Most people seem happy with their housing assignments. If you have young children, though, be prepared to have gates to protect them on winding, steep staircases.
International schools (and your own experience with them): I hear a lot of complaints from people with school-age children, but I have no direct experience.
Preschool/daycare available (with comments about your experience): The Montessori preschool is good. The children seem to really like it there. Once you get over the condition of the building, which for Nicosia is not bad, you will be fine.
Is this a good city for families/singles/couples? It is hog heaven for single guys. There are plenty of clubs—by clubs I mean dark, moldy holes in the ground with loud music—and bars to go to. That is, if you are willing to pay the price for drinks. There is also a huge party scene in the beach communities. You just have to be willing to drive there and then spend the money to stay there if you are planning to party. For single women it is not as good. It depends on the crowd you are with. Making friends at the UN would be advisable. Families have a hard time with boredom. Depending on what your spouse does—and if he can leave Nicosia on the weekends—the beach is always nice, as is the North. In Nicosia itself, there is nothing to do for families. I would not advise this place for preteen or even teenagers, especially those that like sports or outdoor activities.
Is it a good city for gay/lesbian expats? Don't know, but it seems like in Aiya Napa everything goes.
Are there problems with racial, religious or gender prejudices? If you look Turkish, watch out. Cypriots tend to assume that you are Turkish if you just look Hispanic. That can cause you heartache when you are trying to get some service from them.
What difficulties would someone with physical disabilities have living in this city? I couldn't imagine trying to get around in this place with any kind of disability. This city has no adequate infrastructure. Sometime it seems they build things without a clue as to where people are going to park, let alone walk to the place. It would be very difficult for anyone to get around on crutches or in a wheelchair. Not to mention the fact that almost all of the houses have at least two floors. Again, remember they like steep, winding staircases.
Interesting/fun things to do: In Nicosia: not a thing. If there was anything to do (which I am not saying there is) you would pay an arm and a leg for it. They seem to believe that everything they have here is as good as or better than in Europe, and they really hold on tight to that belief. Therefore, they try to charge as if you were in London. The reality is that you are paying as much as, if not more, for far less adequate services. It is fun to go the beach communities, as long as you bring your own food and equipment. You wouldn't want to pay their prices at the beach. The best thing to do here is travel away from here. Take the time to go to the surrounding areas that you will enjoy.
What fast food and decent restaurants are available? There is McDonald’s, Burger King, Pizza Hut, and KFC; and they serve pretty good food. However, you have to pay two to three times as much as you would in the US. As for Greek food: once you have gone to one meze you have gone to them all. If you feel like experimenting, go for Syrian food.
What is the availability (and the relative cost) of groceries and household supplies? Everything here is extremely expensive. About $10 US for a block of cheese, and it’s not even good cheese. Bread, milk, and eggs are about the best buys here. Beef is inexpensive but also poor in quality and sometimes old. Take advantage of your consumable shipment and bring all that you can, especially health products. And the baby stuff here: forget about it.
What comments can you make about using credit cards and ATMs? There seem to be no problems here with using your credit card or ATMs.
What type of automobile is suitable to bring (or not to bring) because of rugged terrain, lack of parts and service, local restrictions, carjackings, etc? Do not bring a brand new car. You will most likely get into an accident while at post. The drivers here are horrible. They will pull in front of you from all directions. They will even stop in front of you and just park right on the lane you are driving in. It is absolutely insane. You do need a car here for every adult in your household. There is no other mode of transportation, and unless you want to deal with a bored and bitter spouse at home, get another car.
What is the best way to make phone calls back home? Phone service is relatively cheap. It is about the only thing that is.
Items you would ship if you could do it again? Ship all you can. You can pretty much find everything here, but you will pay dearly for it, and it will be of cheaper quality.
Availability and cost of domestic help: They are expensive: about $7US an hour.
How much of the local language do you need to know for daily living? Most everyone here speaks English. Actually, they don't seem to want to speak Greek to foreigners. In the small villages you might need some Greek, but you can get away without it.
English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost? Almost everyone has AFN, and movie rentals are mostly inexpensive.
Internet access cost and quality: Internet is touch and go. We pay about $90US for dial-up and phone service.
Size of expat community: The US population is relatively small. The UN has a huge community.
Morale among expats: Most expats in Cyprus that I know do not enjoy their time in Nicosia. The rest of the island is not bad.
Are there decent job opportunities for expats on the local economy? Not that I know of, unless you are a teacher or a nurse.
Entertaining/social life: As I said before, there are plenty of clubs and cafes, but you will pay a lot to go to them. The Embassy seems to keep pretty busy with CLO functions and Marine functions.
Dress code at work and in public: Mostly dressy. Women wear high heels and extremely tight leather everywhere. And I don't just mean young and attractive women either. That goes for the Embassy as well.
Any health concerns? What is the quality of medical care available? They seem to misdiagnose things a lot. They also do a half-ass job when they do actually do something. I have no confidence in the medical care inside or outside the Embassy. Some women have been brave enough to have children here, but I wouldn't recommend it.
You can leave behind your: hopes of being in a European country. Cyprus is technically EU, but that is a very loose term. Take what little money you can save and use it to travel to Jordan, Syria, Egypt, etc.
But don't forget your: patience for the crazy drivers and the lack of work ethic. When they are not on a smoke break they are on a coffee break; sometimes they have both.
Weather patterns? Hot in summer; cool at night and in the winter.
Can you save money? HA, HA, HA! That's a joke, right?
What can you spend it on? Not dying of boredom.
Knowing what you now know, would you still go there? The only way I would come here again is if everyone was allowed two cars and the COLA was raised to 100%. Even then I would have a real hard time being here.
Any other comments: Don’t come here if you can avoid it.
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March 2004
(The contributor is affiliated with the U.S. Embassy, has lived in Nicosia for seven months, and also wrote a report on Vienna, Austria in 2002.)
Travel time to post from Europe or the US (check flight schedules with Expedia): Twelve to fourteen hours.
Average daily commute: Ten to thirty minutes. Depending on the time of morning, it can really change within a short time.
Pollution index (good, moderate, unhealthy, or very unhealthy): Moderate to unhealthy; very bad if you are walking alongside the road.
Security concerns? Not yet. Petty thefts are on the rise, mostly breaking into vehicles to steal things.
Is housing predominantly apartments or houses with yards? Apartments and some houses, a few with small yards.
International schools used by community: American International School of Cyprus is the main one. But beware: some high school students there are being given the opportunity of going to boarding schools elsewhere, and many who have taken this option express similar complaints. The school could use a good cleaning out of bad attitude and lack of enthusiasm on the part of a few individual staff members. That doesn't mean they're all bad, but one bad staff person can make life miserable here. The middle school has some of the same issues, but it is hard to send your child off that young. Interview some of the personnel yourself before making a decision about the school. Other schools are British: Highgate Primary and Secondary, Junior School, Falcon, and some others. These are possible options for those with children in eighth grade and lower. Do not expect American History to be taught at any of the schools at any grade. High school students from the U.S. will need to get this credit elsewhere.
Good post for families/singles/couples? Good for couples; families are safe, but boredom is common.
Interesting/fun things to do in the area: There is not much to do in town, but it is great to get to the beach.
What is there to do after-hours? Certainly not shopping. The hours are short on Wednesday: everything closes from around 1 p.m. to 3 p.m.
Fast food available and price of a Big Mac Meal (or similar)? McDonald's, Burger King, Pizza Hut, and KFC are here.
Decent restaurants available? The little taverns are good. The Syrian Friendship Club is a good one, too. A wide selection of multi-cultural foods are available.
Food and groceries? Ophanides and Alpha Mega are the two main chains, but there are mom and pop shops everywhere.
Are there any currency, exchange rate, or debit/credit card considerations that a newcomer should know about? The cost of a Cypriot pound has recently escalated from US$1.61 to $2.22, so everything is even more expensive than before. We now receive a COLA of ten percent, but it does not compensate for the high prices.
Are there any considerations regarding what type of automobile to bring (or not to bring) because of rugged terrain or lack of parts and service? They drive on the left side of the road here. Don't come here with a brand-new vehicle. If you come with any, I would recommend an SUV, especially if it is left-hand drive. It is difficult to see over oncoming traffic to make a right turn without having a passenger signal for safety. Only one duty-free vehicle is permitted, so save up if you have a spouse. He or she will need a vehicle, since there is no reliable public transportation to depend on. Taxi fares are expensive.
Do you recommend getting a prepaid cell phone locally? Yes. A Tri-band is best because you can use it in other countries and posts.
Items you would ship if you could do it again: extra shoes and clothing for self and children. The quality of clothing and shoes is not always up to U.S standards.
Realistic language needs: English is more widely used in major cities, but in the little villages you will find the need!
English-language newspaper(s) available? Yes.
Internet access cost and quality: It varies for dial-up and ADSL.
Size of Expat community? There is a large UN community, but the number of U.S. Expats is small.
English-language religious services attended by expatriates? Catholic.
Dress code at work and in public? Casual to formal at work and in public.
Health concerns (healthy, risky) and quality of medical care available? Many are Medivac'd to England. I would not get surgery here, and I know many that would not either.
Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)? There are only a couple of kennels. One particular vet seems to be used by Embassy personnel, as he speaks English. Dog foods are often bought online. You will [spam word detected] at the number of stray cats and dogs. We have adopted a great stray dog, and it has been a real comfort and help during our time here. Warning: watch out that you don't let your pets eat foreign things or drink water while out for a walk. There are poisons set out by those who want to control the animal population themselves. Nicosia Dog Shelter is a place where you can find a cat or dog to save and love at home.
Morale among Expats? Good, mostly.
You can leave behind your: plans to save money.
But don't forget your: extra money for a second car before coming.
Weather patterns? Rainy from November to the end of February. It warms up in March to very nice light-jacket weather in morning and evenings. The months of May through August are the high temperature months. By the end of September it is back to light jackets in early mornings and evenings.
Can you save money? No! Don't eat out too much. Groceries are a better option for your pocket book, but you still will not save money.
What can you spend it on? Basic living needs. If you have an extra couple of pounds to spare, consider yourself lucky.
Knowing what you now know, would you still go there? No, not to live in Nicosia.
Any other comments: Toto, I don't think were in Kansas (or even Vienna, Austria) any more!
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October 2001
(The contributor is affiliated with the US government and has been in Nicosia about a year.)
Travel time to post from Europe or the US (check flight schedules with Expedia): 8 hours from U.S. to London, and another 4 hours from London to Larnaca Airport, the main entry point into Cyprus.
Average daily commute: 20 minutes by car from house to office.
Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)? Healthy as long as you don't walk or exercise along the main roads.
Security concerns? Anyone's guess after September 11. Before that date, I would have said very safe. There is very little local crime, and most drugs are in Ayia Napa, the tourist and dance club area.
Is housing predominantly apartments or houses with yards? Mostly small houses with small yards. The problem is that if you don't have a lawn mower in your effects shipment, you will have to buy one. Post will not provide one. This is the smallest house at post I have ever had. Post has only the bare minimum of furniture because there is not enough to go around. Some houses have one floor, but the newer houses are more like townhouses. The first floors are generally very nice, but the bedrooms are very small.
International schools used by community: The most used school is the American International School in Cyprus (AISC). Next are the British schools, such as High Gate, the Junior School, and Falcon. AISC is a great school, small class size, good curriculum, all teachers have at least a Master's degree, and good sports program, also a band and orchestra. A very active PTA as well.
Preschool available (quality)? There are several Montessori-type schools and some English preschools. Most parents are happy with them.
Daycare available (quality)? Most hire a house maid or helper. Most helpers here are Filipina.
Good post for families/singles/couples? Yes, there are nice beaches, lots of small child play places, and lots of historical sights to see. The biggest downside is there is little outside employment for spouses and we have no COLA. The exchange rate is about $1.61US to 1 Cypriot Pound (CyP). Here they treat the pound like a dollar, but you are paying $1.60! Prices here are very high.
Interesting/fun things to do: Swimming pools, snorkeling, and diving, computer learning centers, hiking trails in the mountains, lots of museums. There is also a putt-putt golf for kids, several large waterparks and go-carts. The summer is very hot here: over 105 degrees. Most families leave Cyprus in summer, so the kids who stay have few friends to play with. We were lucky that the AISC had a very nice summer half-day camp which ran for 5 weeks. Expensive but worth it.
I would like to add a few words about the UN Base. I have found that I use the NAFFEE (it's a little grocery store), I use the library frequently, the pool is great . If you get off of work late, it's hard to find someplace to exercise, this was a great option. We also use the Youth Club and their community center. They also have a nice beauty shop with very reasonable prices. For just CyP 4 it's the best deal around.
What is there to do after-hours? Not much. There are several movie theaters, one bowling alley, and a miniature golf course.
Price of a Big Mac Meal (or similar)? The Big Mac Meal is about CyP 4.50 or about $7.20. Like I said, it's expensive here.
Fast food available? There is lots of "takeaway" available, but it's not fast and it's not cheap. If you want takeaway chicken then you order about 25 minutes before you want it. Same with pizza. Pizza costs about CyP 6.80 to CyP 8 or about $10.88 to $12.80 for a large pizza with 2 or 3 toppings. That may be comparable to the US.
Decent restaurants available? Yes, and there is a variety, some Indian, some Italian. Some local meals called "Meze" run about CyP 8 person.
Food and groceries? There are two major grocery stores and lots of small mom and pop or corner grocery stores. The grocery stores are very nice and have a good selection. Prices vary; some items I find inexpensive, like fruit and bread, others like tuna can be up to $2.40 per can.
Items you would ship if you could do it again? Bring beach items like coolers, beach chairs and umbrella, and any scuba equipment. If you want a decent TV cabinet or computer desk, bring it yourself. We also find very useful the plastic utility shelving like you get at Home Depot or the metal commercial shelving sold at the Container Store.
Availability and cost of domestic help ? You can get help but it is expensive. First you usually have to sponsor someone. That means you buy a medical insurance policy at about CyP 250 per year, you buy them an airplane ticket home, you have paid vacation days, and base pay of somewhere between $300-$600 per month. We looked into it and decided that my 10-year-old wanted to earn money, so he vacuums, cleans toilets, and folds clothes and we pay him instead of hiring someone.
Realistic language needs: You can get by with English just fine. If you want to read signs, understand the local news on television or have a grasp of what the local Embassy employees are saying, a conversational course in Greek would be helpful. There are many options to learn Greek here. There are local language schools or night classes at some local colleges. The Embassy won't pay for the classes, but the CLO has language tapes.
English-language newspaper/TV: We watch Euronews on the local TV. We read the Cyprus Mail, a very good local English newspaper. There is a heavy British influence here, so English is prevalent. Of course, history-wise, Cyprus used to be a British colony.
Cable/Satellite TV Available? The military package - AAFRTS is available; one would have to purchase the decoder box for $600 or buy a used one from someone leaving. Direct-to-home systems and subscriptions are also available through various distributors of Sky TV. Analog packages begin around CyP 175 and digital packages around CyP 500.
Internet access available (cost & quality)? Internet Service Provider (ISP) service ranges from CyP 6.50 to CyP 11 (56k - ISDN and ADSL @ 640 K) One local company is www.spidernet.net. The local phone company also offers ISP service at www.cyta.com.cy. Phone service is metered, but cheap. ADSL Internet access is unmetered, but standard voice phone use over the ADSL line is metered. Phone line charges for ADSL are CyP 23 per month, plus voice call usage charges. Line quality is good but expect installation and activation delays for ISDN or ADSL.
Wages and job opportunities for Expats on the local economy? It is difficult to get a good job on the economy unless you have a skill like nursing or accounting or experience in manufacturing. You also need an excellent command of Greek. The businesses here are run by families or clans and it's difficult to break in.
Entertaining/social life? There are movie theaters, price CyP 4 for adults ($6.50). You can also rent movies from the small Commissary. Also the UN Base has a youth club for kids ages 9-15. It is a great club for the kids to socialize. There is a municipal theater, with tickets usually CyP 6-8 or more. The municipal theatre has things like a Russian ballet company, Greek plays, and orchestral music. There are also dance places that many Embassy couples and the Marines go to. We have a Marine House, and the Marines have some nice barbecues and videos and game tables for the kids.
Size of Expat community? From what I can see, there are many married couples, with one being Cypriot and the other American. Some work for the Embassy; others work for companies or for the local universities.
Dress code at work and in public? In the summer months, the Embassy and most businesses allow business casual dress, which is nice since it is so hot here. In public, it's very casual. The teenagers here dress like teenagers in the U.S. There are lots of beauty salons and barbers here.
Quality medical care available? Best to contact the nurse on staff. My sponsor has used a local doctor and was very pleased. The cost was about $40 per visit. Some of the dentists here were trained in the US. For general doctor visits they are good. For anything complicated or a serious operation I would go back to the States.
Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)? Not good here. I have used a vet primarily to spay the stray cats I find and capture. This country is way behind in its thinking on animal welfare. I found this a real contrast, because they charge a substantial "Quarantine Fee" to let animals into the country. I paid more than US$300 for one 12-year-old cat. Then I get here and find that there are stray cats and dogs all over place. I wouldn't mind paying the fee if it went into a spay-and-neuter program.
Morale among Expats? Generally good. Many Expats have settled here because they like the climate, pace of life and generally good living conditions.
You can leave behind your: Heavy winter clothes.
But don't forget your: Dramamine. For boat trip and road trips.
Weather patterns: Sunny and hot every day. We have had no rain for almost 8 full months. I packed an umbrella in the air freight.
Can you save money? Not really. Unless both spouses work full-time at well-paying jobs, you won't save much here. First you lose DC locality pay, and the spouse may have lost a good job. The free housing only works for you if, as in our case, we were renting in Northern Va. at $2,000/month. For us getting out was a $24,000 a year savings. But if your mortgage was $800/month, and you lost locality pay, and the spouse has no decent income, and expenses are high, and you take 1 or 2 nice trips, you may break even, or even suffer a loss.
Knowing what you now know, would you still go there? By and large, the post lives up to our expectations. Like all places, it has its own quirks and character, but then its those unique experiences that draw us to living and working overseas.
Any other comments: Also nice to visit and support are the Donkey Sanctuary and the Cyprus Racehorse Rescue. Both of these charities do good work, and you know that any funds you give are put to good use. The Donkey Sanctuary is the more established of the two. But the Cyprus Racehorse Rescue also serves a very worthwhile purpose.
For animal lovers, Cyprus is a bit of a nightmare. Cyprus is very behind in animal welfare and spay-and-neuter programs. They do have some UNOP programs to save turtle species, and those have been fairly successful. They have killed off most of the beautiful wildlife and will most likely overdevelop and ruin what little natural beauty remains on the island. Money and greed will overrun environmental concerns. Coastal development and lack of recycling programs, creating a large waste stream on a small island, will eventually take their toll. Joining the EU will help, but most of the damage will occur before they join. |
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