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BRAZIL TOURISM GUIDE (Brazil Visas, Hotels, & Regions)

General Information

Area: 8,547,404 sq km (3,300,170.9 sq miles).

Population: 186,112,794 (official estimate 2005).

Population Density: 22 per sq km.

Capital: Brasília. Population: 2,051,146 (2000).

Geography: Brazil covers almost half of the South American continent and it is bordered to the north, west and south by all South American countries except Chile and Ecuador; to the east is the Atlantic. The country is topographically quite flat and at no point do the highlands exceed 3000m (10,000ft). Over 60 per cent of the country is a plateau; the remainder consists of plains. The River Plate Basin (the confluence of the Paraná and Uruguay rivers, both of which have their sources in Brazil) in the far south is more varied, higher and less heavily forested. North of the Amazon are the Guiana Highlands, partly forested, partly stony desert. The Brazilian Highlands of the interior, between the Amazon and the rivers of the south, form a vast tableland, the Mato Grosso, from which rise mountains in the southwest that form a steep protective barrier from the coast called the Great Escarpment, breached by deeply cut river beds. The population is concentrated in the southeastern states of Minas Gerais, Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. The city of São Paulo has a population of over 10 million, while over 5.5 million people live in the city of Rio de Janeiro.

Government: Federal Republic. Head of State and Government: President Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva since 2003.

Language: The official language is Portuguese, with different regional accents characterising each State. Spanish, English, Italian, French and German are also spoken, particularly in tourist areas. Four linguistic roots survive in the indigenous areas: Gê, Tupi-guarani, Aruak and Karib.

Religion: There is no official religion, but approximately 70 per cent of the population adhere to Roman Catholicism. A number of diverse evangelical cults are also represented, as are animist beliefs (particularly spiritism, umbanda and candomblé).

Electricity: Brasília and Recife, 220 volts AC; Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, 127 volts AC or 220 volts in larger hotels. Plugs are of the two-pin type. Most hotels provide 110-volt and 220-volt outlets, transformers and adaptors.

Communications: Telephone: Full IDD services are available for the whole country and abroad. Country code: 55. Outgoing international code: 00. Embratel is one of the main telecommunication services in Brasil (website: www.embratel.com.br). Offices of Embratel are in Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. Rio’s airport provides 24-hour telecommunication services. Public telephones take telephone cards (cartões telefônicos), most of which cost R$20. Some older telephones may require metal discs (fichas), which can be obtained from cash desks or newspaper kiosks. International calls from Brazil are expensive: to the UK, the rate is approximately US$3 per minute, to the USA and Canada, it is approximately US$2.50 per minute. 25 per cent cheaper calls can be made daily from 2000-0500.

Mobile telephone: US-style analogue and digital networks exist. GSM 1800 network operators are Brasil Telecom Celular (website: www.brasiltelecom.com.br), Claro (website: www.claro.com.br), TIM BRASIL (website: www.tim.com.br) and TNL PCS (website: www.oi.com.br). GSM 900/1800 operators are Amazonia Cellular, CTBC Cellular (website: www.ctbctelecom.com.br), Sercom Celular SA (website: http://sercomtelcelular.com.br) and Telemig Celular SA (website: www.telemidcelular.com.br).

Fax: Facilities are available in the main post offices of major cities and some 5-star hotels.

Internet: ISPs include Terra (website: www.terra.com.br). Hotels generally provide Internet access to guests. Internet cafes can be found in main towns and cities, and there are often Internet booths at airports. In smaller towns, public access is sometimes available at post offices.

Telegram: International telegram facilities exist in many cities but are heavily taxed.

Post: Services are reasonably reliable. Sending mail registered or franked will eliminate the risk of having the stamps steamed off. Airmail service to Europe takes four to six days. Surface mail takes at least four weeks. Post office hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1300.

Press: In Rio de Janeiro, there is an English-language publication, the Rio Visitor, which gives tourist information. The Brazil Post is a global news service providing information on the latest stories and current affairs in Brazil (website: www.noticiasdomundo.com). International magazines and newspapers are also available throughout the country.

Radio: BBC World Service (website: www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice) and Voice of America (website: www.voa.gov) can be received. From time to time the frequencies change and the most up-to-date can be found online.

Passport/Visa

Restricted entry: Passports issued by Bhutan, Central African Republic and Chinese Taipei are not recognised by the Brazilian Government. Holders of such passports should hold a Laissez-Passer issued by the Brazilian authorities. For further details, check with the nearest Consulate or Consular section of Embassy.

Passports: Passports valid for at least six months from date of entry required by all except nationals of Argentina, Chile, Paraguay and Uruguay arriving in Brazil directly from their own countries and holding a national identity card.

Note: Persons under 18 years of age, when not accompanied by both parents, must have a birth certificate (an original or authenticated photocopy). This must be in English, French, Portuguese or Spanish, otherwise an official translation must be presented as well. When travelling alone or with one parent, a declaration from the absent parent(s) must be presented authorising the journey and giving the name and address of the person in Brazil who will be responsible for the minor. In the case of divorced or deceased parents, papers attesting to full custody must be presented.

VISAS: Required by all except the following:
(a) nationals mentioned under passport exemptions above;
(b) 1. nationals of EU countries (except nationals of Cyprus, Czech Republic, Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Malta and Slovak Republic who do require a visa) for touristic and business stays of up to 90 days;
(c) nationals of Andorra, Argentina, The Bahamas, Barbados, Bolivia, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, Ecuador, Iceland, Israel, Korea (Rep), Liechtenstein, Malaysia, Mexico, Monaco, Morocco, Namibia, New Zealand, Norway, Panama, Paraguay, Peru, The Philippines, San Marino, South Africa, Sovereign Order of Malta, Surinam, Switzerland, Thailand, Trinidad & Tobago, Tunisia, Turkey, Uruguay, Vatican City and Venezuela for touristic and business stays of up to 90 days (except nationals of Andorra, The Bahamas, Barbados, Bolivia, Israel, Liechtenstein, Malaysia, Namibia, Panama, Trinidad & Tobago and Venezuela who must always obtain a visa if travelling to Brazil for business purposes);
(d) transit passengers continuing their journey to a third country by the same or first connecting flight, provided holding onward documentation and not leaving the airport.

Note: All travellers must be in possession of onward or return tickets and sufficient funds to cover their stay.

Types of visa and cost: Tourist: cost varies according to nationality. Generally, it is around £16. Other prices, based on reciprocity, are £28 (for nationals of Australia); £32 (for nationals of Canada and Nigeria); free, but £80 processing fee (for nationals of the USA); £40 (for nationals of Japan and the Russian Federation). Business: £48 (£80 for nationals of the USA). Transit: contact the Consulate for details of cost. Postal applications, and those via courier or travel agent, cost an additional £8. Some countries must pay an extra £20.

Validity: 90 days from date of issue. Tourist visas can be used for multiple entry within the period of validity. For an extension of the (up to three months) tourist visa, apply in Brazil, although this is always at the discretion of the Brazilian Immigration Authorities.

Application to: Consulate (or Consular section at the Embassy);

Application requirements: Tourist/Transit: (a) Valid passport for at least six months. (b) Application form. (c) Proof of sufficient funds to cover duration of stay or return or onward tickets (photocopy, or letter from carrier giving flight details). (d) One passport-size photo. (e) Certificate of vaccination, if necessary; enquire at Embassy/Consulate. (f) Fee (paid at any post office in the UK with a Giro slip obtainable from the Consulate). (g) If participating in conferences, seminars, an artistic or sports event, a letter from the organisers is required. Business: (a)-(g) and, (h) Letter from applicant’s company stating the purpose and duration of the visit and contacts to be maintained by the applicant.

Note: For postal applications, travellers should also submit a special delivery or guaranteed delivery, self-addressed, pre-paid envelope and a written request stating nationality, status and length of residence in the UK (where applicable) and validity of the British visa (where applicable).

Working days required: Depends on nationality. A minimum of three working days in person, 10 by post, 15 for those who require consultation.

Travel - Internal

AIR: There is a shuttle service between São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, a regular service from São Paulo to Brasília, and a shuttle service from Brasília to Belo Horizonte. There are air services between all Brazilian cities, Brazil having one of the largest internal air networks in the world. At weekends it is advisable to book seats as the services are much used. The monthly magazine Panrotas (website: www.panrotas.com.br) gives all timetables and fares for internal air travel. Air taxis are available between all major centres.

Domestic airports: São Paulo (Viracopos) (VCP), 96km (60 miles) southwest of the city. Airport facilities include banking, a duty free shop and a restaurant.
São Paulo (Congonhas) (CGH), 14km (8 miles) from the city.
Manaus (Internacional Eduardo Gomes) (MAO), 14km (9 miles) from the city. There are coach services into the city and to other destinations.
Salvador (Dois de Julho) (SSA), 36km (22 miles) from the city. 24-hour taxi facilities are available. Airport facilities include banking, a duty free shop and a restaurant.

The Brazilian Airpass: The airpass is available through Varig Brazilian Airlines and can be purchased only outside of Brazil and only in conjunction with a British Airways or Varig international carrier ticket. Only one airpass may be purchased per person. The pass costs up to US$560 for one to five coupons. Extra coupons cost US$100 each, up to a maximum of nine coupons; validity is for 21 days from first date of travel. The same route cannot be travelled twice and coupons have variable values. Further information is available from Varig Brazilian Airlines in the UK (tel: (0845) 603 7601; website: www.varig.co.uk). It is also possible to buy an airpass with TAM, Transbrasil and VASP and use any international carrier.

Departure tax: None.

SEA/RIVER: Ferries serve all coastal ports. River transport is the most efficient method of travel in the Amazon Delta. The government-owned Empresa de Navegação de Amazônia (ENASA) has now virtually suspended its passenger-boat services, but private companies have stepped in and provide constantly improving services on rivers throughout the country. Boat trips from the mainland to the popular and beautiful islands of Ilha Grande, Ilhabela and Ilha de Santa Catarina are also possible.

RAIL: Limited rail connections exist to most major cities and towns, but there has been a substantial decline in the provision of long-distance services from the 18 major regional networks. Most (95 per cent) of Brazil’s 22,000km (13,640 miles) of rail lines are located within 480km (300 miles) of its Atlantic coastline. Because of the great distances and the climate, some of these journeys can be uncomfortable. Daytime and overnight trains with restaurant and sleeping-cars link São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. Brazil’s most scenic rail routes are from Curitiba to Paranagua (originating in São Paulo) and from São Paulo to Santos. Other major rail routes include Belo Horizonte– Itabira–Vitoria (with buffet car), Campo Grande–Ponte Pora (with restaurant car), Porto Santana–Serra do Navio (second-class only), Santos Ana Costa–Juquia (second-class only), São Luis A Guarda–Parauapebas (with buffet car), Curitiba–Foz do Iguacu, São Paulo–Panorama (second-class only), São Paulo–Presidente Prudente (first-class, air conditioned, buffet and sleeping cars available), Araguari– Campinas (restaurant or buffet car) and Santa Maria–Pôrto Alegre (with restaurant car). Children under three travel free. Children from three to nine pay half fare.

ROAD: Brazil has 1,940,400km (1,202,800 miles) of roads. Traffic drives on the right. Bus: Inter-urban transport is very much road-based (accounting for 97 per cent of travel), compared with air (2.2 per cent) and rail (less than 1 per cent). High-quality coaches have been increasingly introduced on the main routes, which are well served. Services connect all inhabited parts of the country. Standards and timetables vary, and the visitor must be prepared for overnight stops and long waits between connecting stages. Car hire: Available in all major centres but rates are expensive and the whole procedure very bureaucratic. Parking in cities is very difficult and it is best to avoid driving through the often congested urban areas if at all possible. Documentation: International Driving Permit required.

URBAN: There are extensive bus services in all the main centres, often with air-conditioned express executive coaches running at premium fares. Rio and São Paulo both have two-line metros and local rail lines, and there are trolleybuses in São Paulo and a number of other cities. Trolleybuses are increasingly being introduced as an energy-saving measure. Fares are generally regulated with interchange possible between some bus and metro/rail lines; for instance, on the feeder bus linking the Rio metro with Copacabana. Taxi: In most cities these are identified by red number plates and are fitted with meters. Fares are inexpensive, costing a little more with the ‘special’ taxis with air conditioning and better comfort. Willingness to accept a taxi driver’s advice on where to go or where to stay should be tempered by the knowledge that places to which he takes a visitor are more than likely to give him a commission – and the highest commissions will usually come from the most expensive places. Taxis are metered and passengers should insist that the meter is turned on.

Accommodation

HOTELS: Accommodation varies according to region. First-class accommodation is, by and large, restricted to the cities of the south and is generally expensive. There are also a number of pousadas, small, privately run hotels that are less expensive than the major hotels.

Rio de Janeiro/São Paulo: Many modern hotels, ranging from the very expensive deluxe hotels to moderately priced hotels. It is vital to book well in advance for the Carnival (which takes place annually in February/March).

Brasília: Small number of good hotels. Most tourists visit Brasília by air from Rio or São Paulo for a day trip, or make a single-night stopover.

Bahia (Salvador): Small number of good hotels, some moderately priced hotels, several demi-pensions. The Bahia carnival takes place after Christmas (from December to March).

Amazon Basin: This region is being developed in part as a tourist attraction and has numerous lodges. Visitors are reminded that hotel tariffs are subject to alteration at any time, and are liable to fluctuate according to changes in the exchange rate.

Note: The best guide to hotels in Brazil is the ‘Guia do Brasil Quatro Rodas’, which includes maps available from EMBRATUR and from any news-stand in Brazil. Grading: The Brazilian Tourist Board (EMBRATUR) has a star-rating system for hotels used by most establishments in towns. The classification is not, however, the standard used in Europe and North America. 5-star is the grade for deluxe hotels. 3-star hotels are good value for money and offer well-kept accommodation, whilst a 1-star hotel can only offer basic amenities.

CAMPING/CARAVANNING: Cars may be hired, and camping arranged on safari tours or group ‘exploration’ trips in the Amazon region. The road network in Brazil is good and is being expanded, but since many parts are wild, or semi-explored, it is wise to drive on main roads, to camp with organised groups under supervision and with official permits, or otherwise to stay in recognised hotels. The country is peaceful, but because it is so large there is a real danger of getting lost, or being injured or killed by natural accident or lack of local survival skills.
The Camping Clube do Brasil has 52 sites in 14 states. Those with an ‘international camper’s card’ pay only half the rate of a non-member (about €4 per person). For those on a low budget, service stations can be used as campsites. These are equipped with shower facilities and can supply food.

YOUTH HOSTELS: There are over 90 youth hostels (albergues de juventude).

OTHER TYPES OF ACCOMMODATION: Eco-Hotels: Owing to a recent government initiative to invest in ecotourism, there are now a relatively small number of ‘eco-hotels’ available, located mostly in or near the Amazonian rainforest. Some provide visitors with luxury accommodation built on treetops and also arrange informative tours to the surrounding area; prices tend to be very high. Budget: Dormitórios, which have several beds to a room, cost as little as US$5 per night, though standards are correspondingly basic (with shared bathroom facilities); a pousada (small guest house) costs approximately US$10 per night. Rooms with bathrooms are called apartamentos, those without a bathroom are called quartos.

Accommodation information:
Associacão Brasileira da Industria de Hoteis (information on hotels)
sala 213, Avenida das Americas, 3.120 Bl.1, Rio de Janeiro
Tel: (21) 3410 5131.
Website: www.riodejaneirohotel.com.br

Camping Clube do Brasil (information on camps)
Divisao de Campings, Rua Senador Dantas 75, 29 andar, 20000 Rio de Janeiro
Tel: (21) 210 3171.
Website: www.campingclube.com.br

Federação Brasileira dos Albergues da Juventude (information on youth hostels)
Rua General Dionisio 63, Botafogo, 22271-050 Rio de Janeiro
Tel: (21) 2286 0303.
Website: www.hostel.org.br

Sport & Activities

Jungle treks: The Amazon rainforest is the world’s largest biological reserve. It contains one-third of all living species on the earth and is crossed by 10 of the world’s 20 largest rivers, including the River Amazon (the largest river in the world). The usual base for trips to the Amazon is the city of Manaus, where numerous tour operators can arrange anything from standard day trips to month-long expeditions to more remote areas. It is best to hire a local guide (trips without guides are only allowed on certain trails). During the rainy season (February to April), the flooded rainforest can be explored by boat or canoe. Several jungle lodges and hotels offer ecotourism packages, though many of these tend to be expensive. River cruises to the so-called ‘wedding of the waters’, where the clear waters of the Rio Negro meet the muddy Amazon, are popular. For information on wildlife, see the Resorts & Excursions section.

Hiking and climbing: The best time for hiking and climbing is from April to October. Rio de Janeiro is the centre of Brazilian rock climbing: over 300 climbs can be reached within 40 minutes from the city centre. There are many great hiking trails in the national parks and along the coastline. The Iguaçu Falls on the Parana River near the junction of Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay is one of the world’s greatest waterfalls, with 275 cataracts. Boat trips to the falls from Rio are available and take two days. Good aerial views can be enjoyed from a helicopter tour of the falls that can be booked on location.

Watersports: Brazil is one of the world’s top surfing destinations. The best places to surf in Brazil include Joaquina Beach (near Florianópolis in Santa Catarina state, which hosts the annual Brazilian surfing championships); Saquarema (in Rio state); Búzios (a chic resort area on the Cabio Frio Peninsula); Itacoatiara; and a string of beaches near Rio de Janeiro. There are hundreds of beaches along the coastline suitable for many types of watersports, some of the best being at Buzios; Angra (on the Costa Verde, which is fairly uncrowded, with access to hundreds of offshore islands); Fortaleza; Niteroi (near Rio, with three good beaches); and Itamaraca Island (north of Recife). Diving can be practised in Fernando de Noronha (a small archipelago off Brazil’s north eastern coast in Pernambuco state, where a strict environmental protection programme allows a maximum of 420 visitors at a time); Angra dos Reis (a seaside village in Rio de Janeiro state, part of Ilha Grande Bay, with possible diving trips to 300 surrounding islands); Bonito (located in the fairly untouched and undeveloped Panatal region); Recife (the ‘birthplace’ of Brazil, offering excellent diving in the vicinity); and Parcel Manoel Luís. Diving clubs are located all along the coastline. For further information, contact the Brazilian Tourist Board – EMBRATUR (see Contact Addresses section).

Golf: Rio de Janeiro’s spectacular location makes for a number of dazzling golf courses. The Gávea Golf & Country Club, located beneath the massive Gávea rock and next to São Conrado beach, has an 18-hole course; non-members are not allowed at Itanhangá Golf Club has a 9- and an 18-hole course, located near Barra da Tijuca beach.

Carnaval and music: four days in the South, to two weeks in northern cities such as Salvador and Recife. Brazilians themselves remark that the Recife and Olinda celebrations are the most distinctive but it is cities like Rio or Salvador that receive the most foreign visitors. However in every town and village in Brazil, Carnaval is a time to celebrate and the visitor will see processions and blocos every region during Carnaval time.

Accommodation is traditionally prepaid in four- or five-day blocks and overland travel during Carnaval is notoriously difficult, although always entertaining!

Music: Brazil is the perfect place to sample the samba, bossa nova or lambada and the major cities, particularly Rio de Janeiro, are full of cafes with live music and dancing. Gefieiras are samba parlours where visitors can either watch or join in. In Rio, many gefieiras are located on the south side. The Copacabana beach, where parties are staged nearly 24 hours a day, is also a good location for sampling some Latin American entertainment. An exciting way to experience the genuine samba is by attending a rehearsal at the escolas de samba (samba schools), which open their doors to visitors a couple of months before the beginning of Rio de Janeiro’s carneval. Bandas, the non-professional equivalent of the samba schools, are also a good place to practice. Tickets for the carnival go on sale two weeks before the beginning. The best costumes and most spectacular samba parades can be seen at the Sambódromo (Sambadrome), a stadium on Rua Marquês de Sapucaí, where 14 samba schools parade on Carnival Sunday and Monday; the parades go on for 24 hours and tickets should be bought well in advance. It is possible for visitors to take part in a parade. One week of preparation should be allowed and hotels can often make all the necessary arrangements. During carnival, foreign visitors should be alert to pickpockets and not carry more money than needed.

Football: A good way to experience the Brazilian Maracana Stadium, the largest in the world.

Travel Warnings
Most visits to Brazil are trouble-free. However, levels of crime and violence are high, especially in major cities. Travellers should be vigilant, especially when going out after dark.

Travellers should be aware of the global risk of indiscriminate terrorist attacks which could be against civilian targets, including places frequented by foreigners.

Drug trafficking and use is a growing problem, with severe penalties in Brazil.

Latest travel advice contacts:

British Foreign and Commonwealth Office
Tel: (0845) 850 2829.
Website: www.fco.gov.uk

US Department of State
Website: http://travel.state.gov/travel

Regions & Destinations in Brazil

RIO DE JANEIRO: Known as the cidade maravilhosa (the marvellous city), Rio has one of the most beautiful settings in the world. The city’s spectacular harbour is dominated by the famous rocky outcrop, Pão de Açúcar(Sugar Loaf), and, further up, the Corcovado (Hunchback) peak, rising 709m (2326ft) above the Baía de Guanabara and providing the focal point for the classic Rio skyline. The Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) statue stands on top of Corcovado. Pão de Açúcar can be reached by two cable cars ascending 396m (1300ft) above Rio and the Baía de Guanabara (one leaves approximately every 30 minutes). Flocks of tourists arriving by tour buses can sometimes spoil the view, so visitors should avoid the busiest times (between 1000-1100 and 1400-1500). The Corcovado peak is located within the Parque Nacional da Tijuca, and is accessible by cog train (leaving from the Rua Cosme Velho). From the top there are magnificent views of Rio. Taxis also take visitors up to the peak and driving there will take up to an hour. Rio’s other landmarks are its numerous beaches, most notably the infamous Copacabana and Ipanema. Beach life is a ritual in Brazil and different beach sections reflect different ways of life and fashions. The Girl from Ipanema beach is particularly popular with young people and is located at Posto Nine in Ipanema. Owing to strong waves and undertows, swimming off Ipanema can be dangerous. Rio’s other main beaches include Arpoador, Barra da Tijuca, Botafogo, Flamengo, Leblon, Leme, Pepino and Vidigal.

Rio has many interesting museums, including the Museu Histórico Nacional, located in the São Tiago Fortress. The Museu de Arte Moderna do Rio de Janeiro contains Brazil’s most important collection of modern art. The Museu de Arte Contemporânea de Niterói, designed by famous architect Oscar Niemeyer and overlooking Boa Viagem beach, showcases contemporary Brazilian art. The Museu do Folclore Edison Carneiro displays folk art and art naif. The Museu do Índio contains some 14,000 objects made by Brazilian Indians and is one of the nation’s most important Indian heritage museums. The Museu da República is set in the well-restored Palácio do Catete and reveals a fascinating insight into Brazilian history.

SÃO PAULO: The view from the top of São Paulo’s tallest building, the Edificio Italiano reveals South America’s largest city (over 9 million inhabitants) and Brazil’s financial, commercial and industrial heartland. Famed throughout the continent for its abundant nightlife and shopping, São Paulo’s rapidly growing population resides in a sprawling urban maze characterised by perpetual traffic jams and a chronic lack of space. While São Paulo’s concrete jungle is a far cry from the colour and charm of other Brazilian cities, there are some cultural attractions on offer, notably the MASP – Museu de Arte de São Paulo with an internationally renowned collection of impressionist paintings (with works by Van Gogh and Degas amongst many others).

The Brazilian Northeast

The Northeast of Brazil is famed for its beautiful beaches and distinct history and folklore. Known as the ‘Golden Coast’, this region contains the states of Alagoas, Bahia, Ceará, Maranhão, Paraíba, Pernambuco, Piauí, Rio Grande do Norte and Sergipe.

SALVADOR DA BAHIA: The state capital is split into upper and lower sections. Cidade Alta, the heart of the old city, is perched at the top of a 50m-high cliff, linked to Cidade Baixa by steep streets, a funicular railway and the marvellous Art-Deco Elevador Lacerdo. The majority of Salvador’s museums, palaces and churches are concentrated within Cidade Alta and thus the city is ideal for exploring on foot. This UNESCO World Heritage Site boasts a staggering number of churches, including the impressive Church of São Francisco and the fascinating Church of Bonfim, where middle-class matrons rub shoulders with the peasantry as they gather to worship. However, religion in Bahia is not limited to the established church. The state’s African legacy extends to candomble, a fusion of African and Catholic religions. Candomble followers dress in white and honour hundreds of native deities in terreiros (or cult houses) all over the city, it is possible to witness ceremonies as some terreiros accept visitors as long as they dress accordingly and are respectful.

Salvador has some of the best museums in Brazil and next to the opulent Catedral Basilica is the Museu Afro-Brasileiro, a fascinating insight into afro-Brazilian culture, with sections on candomble, capoeira and Carnaval. Other interesting museums include the Casa de Jorge Amado, Bahia’s best-known novelist, the Museu da Cidade and the Museu de Arte Sacra, the latter housed in a 17th-century convent.

Avid shoppers should head for the Mercado Modelo for a wide variety of goods including many examples of local handicrafts. The local cuisine (comida bahiana) is among the best in Brazil, focusing on rich African flavours.

Salvador is also renowned for being the hub of Brazilian music and Salvador’s central district of Pelourinho is home to numerous bars and clubs showcasing live music and afoxé (Salvador’s carnival bands).

ELSEWHERE: Also in Bahia state, the Diamantina National Park is also well worth a visit; it contains several underground lakes (such as Lago Azul) and spectacular waterfalls (such as Veu da Noiva). The towns of Ilhéus and Aracaju with their ornate churches and colonial architecture are also worth a visit.

Piauí State contains the UNESCO World Heritage site of the Serra da Capivara National Park, which contains ancient cave paintings estimated to be over 25,000 years old.

Alagoas state capital, Maceiô, is deservedly proud of its fantastic beaches, reputedly the finest in all of Brazil.

Pernambuco state capital, Recife, has been the beneficiary of sizeable investment to promote tourism. However despite being one of the most visited cities in the Brazilian Northeast, it still suffers from a poor infrastructure and the influx of rich, foreign tourists has made begging and street crime a real problem in the city. A world away is the nearby historical town of Olinda, infamous for its Carnaval celebrations and one of Brazil’s eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Rio Grande do Norte’s state capital, Natal, is divided between the commercial section of the city and its beach suburbs – clean, safe and good for surfing. Natal has several large markets and is famous for its cotton and leather handicrafts.

Ceara’s capital, Fortaleza, sprawls lazily along a spectacular coastline. Blessed with excellent restaurants and an abundance of attractions for the visitor, the city is also a great place to organise a trip to Jericocoara. Just four hours by car, this heavenly village is nestled between a dazzling white sand-dune desert and a balmy turquoise sea.

The Interior

Few tourists venture far from Brazil’s spectacular beaches but a trip into the interior reveals a different Brazil, one with a great deal to offer the visitor.

MINAS GERAIS: As its name suggests, this was so called after the abundant gold and diamond mines that transformed the state into a treasure trove of gold and also of baroque art. During the 18th century, the stream of riches from this region was so relentless that the Portuguese lacked sufficient ships to transport it to Europe. Almost all the gold that gilded altars in cathedrals and churches from as far north as Olinda came from Minas. In towns such as Ouro Preto, Tiradentes, Sabará and Mariana, this tidal wave of wealth resulted in the construction of hundreds of churches and civic buildings in lavish baroque style. All of the cidades históricas are immaculately preserved examples of Brazil’s colonial heritage and are accessible by road from the state capital Belo Horizonte. This region’s highlight for art-lovers is Aleijadinho’s interpretation of ‘The Passion’ at the Basilica de Bom Jesus de Matosinhos. Set in gardens that gently slope towards Matosinhos town, the work is positioned in six small domed chapels filled with life-size statues that dramatise the scenes. All of the figures, including the 12 magnificent soapstone statues of prophets from the Old Testament, are more poignant for being sculpted by an artist almost completely disabled by the advanced stages of leprosy and who, therefore, knew it to be his final work.

ELSEWHERE: Brasília, the country’s capital, was built on land originally covered by cerrado (sub-tropical forest) and is renowned for its futuristic architecture, most notable in the Praça dos Três Poderes, Palácio do Planalto and the National Congress. Attracting far fewer visitors than the huge cities of Rio and São Paulo or the tropical paradise of the Northeast, Brasília has little to offer the visitor interested in Brazilian history and culture. However, it is Brazil’s future and it is up to the individual to decide whether it is as attractive as Brazil’s colourful past.

Mato Grosso is the gateway to the Pantanal, a vast area of wetlands approximately half the size of France and Brazil’s largest ecological reserve. Flooded by the Rio Paraguai during the wet season (October to March), this region is the best place in Brazil to see wildlife. However, the region is sparsely populated, with few towns or villages and only one major road (the ‘Transpantaneira’). Therefore, in order to get the most out of the area, wildlife enthusiasts should choose an organised tour with experienced guides.

The South

PORTO ALEGRE: In the rich southern state of Rio Grande do Sul, this city caters for thousands of tourists each year, the majority of whom come from nearby Argentina. The capital has excellent museums, art galleries and restaurants to entertain the visitor, as well as delightful surrounding countryside. To the west, travellers can visit the ruins of the 300-year-old Jesuit missions, abandoned when the Jesuits were expelled from Spain. One of the most fascinating is Saõ Miguel das Missões, yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site, located 58km (36 miles) from the town of Santo Angelo (a good starting point for visiting the missions). The most popular beaches in this area are the Tramandai and Torres, respectively 126km (78 miles) and 209km (130 miles) from Pôrto Alegre. In addition, the region’s Gramado and Canela Mountains provide ample opportunities for walking and trekking.

ELSEWHERE: The state of Santa Catarina, with its island capital of Florianópolis, has superb beaches at Laguna, Itapena and Camburiu. The island is famous for its excellent surfing and watersports facilities are particularly good in the area. Further inland Blumenau and Joinville are both living testaments to the last century’s massive influx of German immigration with both towns constructed in predominantly German architecture. Germanic culture is still vibrant in small towns like Pomerode (near Blumenau) where German remains the lingua franca with Portuguese only used in government offices. Blumenau’s annual three-week Oktoberfest is not to be missed.

Paraná is a prime coffee-producing state with a bright modern capital, Curitiba, whose public transport system could be the envy of European capitals like London or Paris. Efficient trams run throughout the city and travellers are encased in glass tunnels that protect them from the elements as they wait for the next tram. However, Curitiba is relatively compact and (weather permitting) easy to explore on foot with most areas of interest found in the historic centre. Curitiba is famous for its parks, two of which are worth seeking out; visitors will be fascinated by the riot of vivid plumage in the aviaries of the Passeio Público, where several species of local birds are kept. A fascinating insight into frontier life and the endeavours of countless European immigrants, who moved here during the last 150 years, is the Museu de Imigração Polenesa in the centre of Bosque João Paulo. The museum’s best exhibits are the log cabins, built by Polish immigrants in the 1880s and relocated here over 100 years later.

The train journey between Curitiba and Paranaguá is a spectacular journey through dense jungle, its route strewn with memorials for the many workers who perished from tropical diseases as they constructed the tracks. Accessible by road or air from Curitiba are the world-famous Iguazu Falls, a spectacular set of 70m waterfalls, including the impressive Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat). Standing near the waterfalls is a humbling experience. The deafening roar of 5000 cubic metres of water cascading down each second accompanies a perpetual (and in summer temperatures, welcoming) mist that envelopes visitors. The area encompasses two national parks, each boasting hundreds of species of plant and animal life, and spans the borders of two countries, Argentina and Brazil, divided by the River Paraná. For a good view of the entire set of falls, visit the Brazilian side of the Park in Foz de Iguazu and photograph the spectacle. To get close enough to stare into the watery abyss, visit the Argentine side. Unfortunately, there is no access to Brazil from the Argentine Park or vice versa, so visitors wishing to see both parks must travel overland to the border crossing, about 10km south. Due to Foz de Iguazu’s proximity to both the Argentine and Paraguayan borders, it is possible to visit both countries in a day trip from Foz.

THE NORTHERN INTERIOR AND AMAZON: Almost entirely covered with dense rainforest, Brazil’s northern interior is split into the vast regions of Amazonas, Pará, Acre and Rondônia. These massive federal states easily outstrip the land resources of many European countries and, combined, cover over 3,400,000 sq km (1,300,000 sq miles) of endless jungle filled with countless species of life.

RONDÔNIA AND ACRE: Created in 1991 Rondônia has suffered extensive deforestation. There are still natural wonders hidden away such as the stunning Teotonio and Santo Antônio Falls, accessible from capital Porto Velho. Other attractions include river trips to the Forte Principe de Beira or to Bolivia, where air taxis operate to La Paz from Guayaramerin.

Territorially annexed from Bolivia in the early 20th century, Acre is a state of contrasts with a funky capital in Rio Branco, a thriving market and university town on the river. Because of its student population, Rio Branco has good nightlife and its geographical position as a trading post has made the town an important handicrafts centre.

AMAZONAS: The state capital, Manaus, was transformed by the 19th-century rubber boom and nowhere is this more evident than in the Teatro Amazonas, built in 1896 in the elaborate style of the Italian Renaissance. In front of the theatre, a marble square is designed to reflect the four continents represented by four great ships. Along Avenida Sete de Setembro are numerous museums worth a visit; the Museo de Indio, Museo de Amazonas and the marvellous colonial mansion that houses the Centro Cultural de Palacio Rio Negro, an extensive archive of naturalist Alexandre Ferreira. The city is easy to navigate and offers the visitor both fine restaurants and tax-free bargains in the free trade zone. As a major port for river-traffic with arrivals and departures to Colombia, Peru and Venezuela, Manaus is an excellent starting point for river trips and guided tours into the rainforest. 25 million years ago, the volcanic activity that created the Andes blocked the Amazon’s path to the Pacific, sending it on the 6400km journey to the Atlantic and thus creating the vast Amazon basin. Upriver from Manaus, the rivers Amazon and Negro meet but their waters (yellow and black respectively) run parallel for many miles in different-coloured channels.

PARA AND AMAPA: The Eastern Amazon region is split between the states of Para and Amapa. Para’s state capital Belem was founded in 1616. Situated at the Atlantic end of the Amazon estuary at the mouth of the Rio Tocantins, Belem is a thriving port city with an exquisite historical centre, dotted with splendid churches and elegant parks. The Goeldi Museum boasts the largest collection of tropical plants in the world. The docks are the location of the early-morning Ver O Peso (See the Weight) market, which was originally a slave market but still exists these days although the stalls now mostly sell fruit and produce.

Source : Columbus guide


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