Expatriate Forums in Bolivia

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FOOD & DINING IN BOLIVIA / BOLIVIA DINING GUIDE

Bolivia Info — Mon Nov 27, 2006 5:15 am

Author: Bolivia Info

Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 5:15 am

FOOD & DINING IN BOLIVIA

Most hotels in Bolivia serve eggs and toast for breakfast. But if you want to feel like a local, you really should be eating salteñas (either chicken or beef, spiced with onions and raisins and wrapped up in a doughy pastry shell). True salteña eaters buy their breakfast from vendors on the streets, but if you're a bit squeamish about eating food from street vendors, not to worry: in La Paz, Al Pazzo Salteñas, Capitán Revelo 2019 (at the corner of Calle Goytia), is a tiny little storefront that sells nothing but salteñas. Once you place your order, the owner picks up a phone and calls her kitchen. Her workers -- who have perfected her grandmother's recipe -- will make your salteñas to order. Remember, salteñas are served only for breakfast, so this place closes down around 1pm. The Pastelería La Regina, right below the Restaurant Surucachi at Av. 16 de Julio 1598, also serves a mean salteña.

In Sucre, the most delicious salteñas in town can be found at El Paso de los Abuelos, Bustillo 216 (tel. 0104/6455-173); they're open daily from 8am to 1pm. The newest and hippest cafe/restaurant is Salamadra, Calle Avaroa 510 (tel. 0104/6913-433), where the crème de la crème of Sucre's residents gather for lunch, dinner, and coffee and snacks. For a much simpler but exquisite local experience, visit Las Delicias, Estudiantes 50 (tel. 0104/6442-502). Here, owner (and baker) Dorly Fernández de Toro serves her amazing pastries; some are very unusual but delicious, like the sonso, made from mashed yucas. There's also a good selection of yummy empanadas and humitas. Las Delicias is open only Tuesday through Saturday from 4 to 8pm -- come early as this place fills up fast.

The best place for lunch with a terrific view is the Café Gourmet Mirador, Plaza Anzures, across from the Recoleta (tel. 0104/6440-299). You'll dine outside under lovely bamboo umbrellas with Sucre stretched at your feet; the speciality here is crepes. They're open daily until 6pm.

National specialties

• Empanada salteña (a mixture of diced meat, chicken, chives, raisins, diced potatoes, hot sauce and pepper baked in dough).

• Lomo montado (fried tender loin steak with two fried eggs on top, rice and fried banana).

• Picante de pollo (southern fried chicken, fried potatoes, rice, tossed salad with hot peppers).

• Cuño (naturally freeze-dried potato used in soup called chairo).

• Lechón al horno (roast suckling pig served with sweet potato and fried plantains).

• Ilajhua (a hot sauce consisting of tomatoes and pepper pods) will often be used to add spice and flavour to dishes.

National drinks

• Bolivian beer, especially paceña, is some of the best on the continent.

• Chicha, made from fermented cereals and corn, is very strong.

NIGHTLIFE IN BOLIVIA / BOLIVIA NIGHTLIFE GUIDE

Bolivia Info — Mon Nov 27, 2006 5:07 am

Author: Bolivia Info

Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 5:07 am

NIGHTLIFE IN BOLIVIA

LA PAZ

Once the sun sets in La Paz, the temperature drops dramatically. Instead of going home (often to unheated apartments), many locals seek the warmth of bars and pubs. The nightlife scene in La Paz can hardly compare to New York or even Buenos Aires, but there are some funky places in the heart of the city where you can relax and kick back a few drinks. Peñas provide a place for visitors to experience traditional folk music and dance, although they tend to be very touristy.

Note: Most bars (except in hotels) are open only Wednesday through Saturday.

Bars & Pubs

The best hotel bar in La Paz is at the Radisson; they have a very popular happy hour nightly from 6:30 to 8:30pm offering two-for-one drinks, and it's popular with expatriates and tourists alike. One of the most popular British-style watering holes in the city is Mongo's, Hermanos Manchego 2444 (near the corner of Pedro Salazar, half a block up from Av. 6 de Agosto). It has a cozy feel and a wood-burning fireplace. Get here early, as the place fills up late at night; the food here is also surprisingly good. Coyote Bar, Av. 20 de Octubre 2228 (corner of Pasaje Medinacelli), is smaller and less popular than Mongo's. Malegría, Calle Goitia 155 (a few steps from the Plaza del Estudiante), is very popular on Thursday nights for its Afro-Bolivian band; the lively music sometimes gets people dancing on the bar. One of the trendiest bars in town is Sol y Luna, Calle Murillo 999. Metal revolving doors lead into an industrial-looking space with a very in-crowd sipping on rather expensive cocktails. Nearby on Illampu between Santa Cruz and Sagárnaga is Ojo de Agua, where you can drink wine and chew coca leaves while you listen to a mix of classic rock and native music.

Discos & Dance Clubs

El Loro en Su Salsa (tel. 0102/2342-787), down from 6 de Agosto on Rosendo Gutiérrez, is one of the best dance clubs in La Paz; salsa is the specialty here. Boccaccio, J.M. Reyes 28 in the Calacoto neighborhood (tel. 0102/2771-112), is also happening on Friday and Saturday nights. Also popular are Coco Loco in Miraflores in the Edificio Providencia, which is on the curve right south of the stadium, and Noa Noa on Calle Conchitas between 20 de Octubre and Heroes del Arce. In general, the cover charge for clubs in La Paz is about 10Bs ($1.30).

Peñas & Live Music

These days, it's hard to find an authentic peña that caters to locals. Fortunately, for the most part, you'll hear authentic Andean music and watch folk dancers wearing unique but traditional costumes. Restaurant Peña Marka Tambo, Calle Jaén 710 near the corner of Indaburo, puts on a good show Thursday through Saturday nights. The cover is 25Bs ($3.25). The traditional Bolivian dishes are good. The show starts at 9:30pm. Casa de Corregidor, Calle Murillo 1040, is a similar venue -- typical Bolivian food and music. There is a show here every night during the week; this place feels a bit more laid-back than Marka Tambo. Boca y Sapo, Indaburo 654 (corner of Jaén), attracts locals as well as tourists; there's no dinner here, only live music, which makes it feel a bit more authentic.

Equinoccio, Sánchez Lima 2191 between Aspiazu and Guachalla, is one of the best venues for live music; the club manages to book some great local bands. For live jazz, try Thelonious Jazz Bar, Av. 20 de Octubre 2172. A lot of the bands that play here are from the United States.

SUCRE

Because Sucre is crawling with young university students, there are tons of charming bars near Plaza 25 de Mayo, especially on Calle N. Ortiz leading away from the square. I recommend the Joy Ride Café & Bar, Calle N. Ortiz 14 (tel. 0104/6425-544), owned by a Dutch guy and serving good beer and excellent light meals. This is where many gringos spend the evening. Next door, Picadilly (no phone) is another popular bar. If you're looking to boogie, there are some great dance clubs here, too. Some of the best are Coyote Rodeo, Avenida Venezuela at the corner of Avenida Del Maestro; Mitos, Calle Francisco Cerro at the corner of Calle Loyaza; and Tío Lalo, Calle San Alberto 680. Up/Down, Calle Gregorio Mendizábal and F. Ruck (tel. 0104/6453-587), is a popular spot for karaoke; the cover charge is usually 10Bs ($1.30).

COCHABAMBA

Cochabamba is a university town with more than 27,000 students. On Friday and Saturday nights, this town is hopping. Most of the trendy bars and cafes are clustered around Avenida España between Colombia and Ecuador. One of the most happening is newly reopened Metrópolis on the corner of España and Ecuador. In Recoleta, there are several bars and nightclubs on Av. Uyuni, close to La Estancia restaurant . Also, locals come out in droves on the weekends to sip beer and watch the action on the Prado -- there are tons of cafes and places on Avenida Ballivián (Paseo el Prado). They're all within a block or two of the Hotel Diplomat.

SANTA CRUZ DE LA SIERRA

The Irish Pub on Calle 24 de Septiembre right on the main plaza is a popular watering hole for foreigners. Avenida San Martín in the second ring is lined with outdoor cafes, bars, and pubs. Automanía on Calle Comercial El Chuubi and La Ronería (right next door) are two of the most happening places in town. Salsa dancers should seek out El Loro en Su Salsa at Warnes 280.

SHOPPING IN BOLIVIA / BOLIVIA SHOPPING GUIDE

Bolivia Info — Mon Nov 27, 2006 4:59 am

Author: Bolivia Info

Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 4:59 am

SHOPPING IN BOLIVIA

GENERAL

Handicrafts are the name of the game in Bolivia. The indigenous people have been creating beautiful hand-woven goods for thousands of years. In La Paz, Calle Sagárnaga is shopper's central. Here you'll have the opportunity to browse in thousands of stores selling handmade goods, including alpaca sweaters, hats, gloves, leather bags, and textile products. Besides handicrafts, you can also buy folksy good luck charms, from llama fetuses to miniature homes (supposedly, if you buy something in miniature, you'll soon have the real thing). Local markets are also a great place to find unique gifts. The Sunday market in Tarabuco, about an hour outside of Sucre, is considered one of the best in Bolivia.

Bargaining is not part of Bolivian culture -- for the most part, prices are fixed. If you play your cards right, you may be able to shave a few dollars off the asking price, but in general, most salespeople won't drop their prices significantly. Fortunately, prices are already rock bottom.

SHOPPING IN LA PAZ

At times, it feels as though La Paz is one big shopping centre. The streets teem with vendors peddling everything you can imagine. You never have to walk far to find what you need. The city is a mecca for handmade arts-and-crafts products. Calle Sagárnaga is shopper's central, with thousands of stores all packed to the gills with local handicrafts. In general, most of the quality is mediocre, but the variety and uniqueness of the goods sold here is mighty impressive. Some of the more popular items include alpaca sweaters (usually about $8-$10 each), hand-woven shoulder bags, leather bags, wool hats, textiles, gloves, and all sorts of things that you will never find in your hometown. ComArt, Calle Linares 958 (about 1 block down from Sagárnaga), is the only association of organized workers in La Paz. When you buy something here, your money goes directly to the workers, not the shopkeepers. If you're trying to find some differences between all the stores in the area, here's a tip: Both Millma, Calle Sagárnaga 225, and Artesanía Sorata, Calle Sagárnaga 311 and Calle Linares 862, sell some of the best quality alpaca sweaters in town. On the other side of town, you'll find beautiful silver jewelry at Kuka Pradel, Av. 6 de Agosto 2190.

The Witch Doctors' Market
Venture off of Calle Sagárnaga onto Calle Linares and you'll find yourself in the appropriately named Witch Doctors' Market. Here, you can buy a ghoulish variety of charms, spices, and magic potions to help cast a positive spell on your future. Llama fetuses are one of the most popular items for sale here. If you're looking for luck, here's a list to help you decode the meaning of all the amulets on display: Frogs are said to bring good fortune; turtles are the symbol of long life; owls bring knowledge; snakes are a sign of progression (or moving in the right direction); koa -- a dried plant made with molasses -- is supposed to help your harvest; and pumas will help you achieve victory over your enemy.

The Black Market
Need a computer, a toilet bowl, tools, or a stereo? You'll find them all at the Black Market. Apparently, everything here is smuggled in from Chile. It's widely known that the merchandise is not always totally legit, but these days, even police officers do their shopping here. You'll find some incredible bargains. Even if you can't fit a toilet bowl in your suitcase, it's still a hoot to wander the crowded streets and watch as the locals wheel and deal. The Black Market is a few blocks uphill from the heart of Sagárnaga, past Max Paredes; you'll find a lot of action around Calle La Gasca and Eloy Salmón.

SHOPPING IN SUCRE

Sucre and the surrounding area are famous for handicrafts. If you happen to be in town on a Sunday and you're looking for handicrafts, you should head to the market in Tarabuco (about 56km/35 miles from Sucre). Here, you will find thousands of different textiles, hats, gloves, bags, and other hand-woven goodies. The market is one of the best in Bolivia. On Sunday mornings, buses leave from Sucre for Tarabuco from 7 to 9am at the corner of Avenida de la Américas and Manco Capac. The 1 1/2-hour ride costs 15Bs ($1.95) each way. Candelaria Tours, right off the central square at Audiencia 1 (tel. 0104/6461-661; www.candelariatours.com), also organizes day trips to the market and the surrounding area.

The gift shop at the Museo de Arte Indígena ASUR/Textile Museum on San Alberto 413 (near the corner of Potosí) offers the best selection of textiles and handmade crafts in Sucre. Artesanías Sucre, Calle Olañeta 42 at Plazuela Zudáñez, and Artesanías Tesoros del Inca, Calle Camargo 514, also sell local handicrafts. You will find everything under the sun at the unique Central Market on the corner of Junín and Ravelo. I recommend heading up to the second floor to try the local Tojorí drink for breakfast. The drink consists of boiled corn, cinnamon, and sugar. Because of its high protein content, it's called "the cornflakes of the Andes."

Para Ti on Arenales (about 1/3 block in from the plaza) sells the most divine handmade chocolate that I've ever tasted.

SHOPPING IN COCHABAMBA

Cochabamba and the surrounding area are famous for their colourful markets. If you happen to be in town on a Wednesday or Saturday, you must stop in at La Cancha, Avenida San Martín between Tarata and Pulacayo, a huge market where you can find handicrafts, fresh produce, herbs, and just about anything else you could ever want.

In the valleys outside of Cochabamba, there are also several towns that have authentic markets. Caixa Tours, Esteban Arze S-0563 (tel. 0104/4250-937), organizes day trips to these market towns. Tarata in the Upper Valley is a lovely historic village about 1 hour from Cochabamba; market day is Thursday. The market in Punata (about 1 1/2 hr. from Cochabamba) is considered to be one of the best and biggest in Bolivia. It's also one of the least touristy. On Sunday, you should head to Cliza for a taste of real Bolivian cooking. One of the specialties here is baked pigeon. Minibuses to these towns leave from the corner of Avenida Barrientos and Avenida 6 de Agosto; the trip costs 5Bs (65¢).

Shopping at the local markets can be a chaotic experience. If you're looking for something more tranquil, you should stop by Vicuñita Handicrafts on Av. Rafael Pabón 777 (tel. 0104/4255-615). Here you can shop for leather goods, tapestries, bags, and ceramic figurines (all handmade!) in the comfort of a private, uncrowded warehouse. For alpaca sweaters, Amerindia on Calle España 264, is recommended.