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 Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 10:12 pm Post subject: Backpacking in Laos Guide |
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Backpacking in Laos Guide
Intro: Currently Asia's hippest destination, from Beijing to Islamabad, the name Laos is being whispered among backpackers as some fantastic, esoteric, void of tourists destination. I am sorry, it is not. As nice as it is, many parts are becoming an extended run from Thailand for many visitors. If you want to see Laos you need to spend the time and effort getting to the hill tribe areas in the north (this is best done to or from China). The idea is that because tourists have only been allowed into Laos since 1989, that you will be a novelty and see the last bit of real Southeast Asia. Well the really good days have gone five to ten years back, which is where many of the stories come from. It is a nice destination and the north is unique, but on the whole, especially the Luang Prabang - Vientiane run, you may see more tourists than in Thailand, after all it is just next door. If you do spend the time and effort travelling further a field you will be a novelty, but you would have earned it, as overland, (non-river) transport is very hard work.
Highlights: Luang Prabang, Northern hill tribe areas, Muang Sing, a river boat trip and the lake of a thousand islands in the south
Lowlights: Vientiane and Muang Vangviang (aka. Vangviang - nice, but nothing but an over-developed backpacker town now, karst mountains and caves in China more impressive)
Visa strategy: Get your visa for 15 or 30 days in Bangkok or on arrival at the Friendship bridge. A Laos visa in Vietnam is much more expensive than in Bangkok where it is easy to obtain. In Bangkok it is possible to get a one month visa in one working day. The cost, if you go yourself to the embassy at 8am and collect it in the afternoon should be B1350 (for most western nationalities, cheaper for Asian & Israelis, more expensive for Canadian, American, Japanese or German). The embassy is quite remote and tricky to get to (Bus No60, then taxi), you will be better off to leave the work to an agency for a commission of as little as B100-150 (check around). A one month visa should cost B1500 and a 15 days visa B1000.
Crossing into Cambodia: The overland border between Laos and Cambodia - long closed is now open. For years this boarder attracted a lot of attention from the elite type backpackers. Original info was to go to Don Det island, (south from Don Khong) then to the Friendship cafe (or something else like that). At the boat landing you can organize a boat to the road then a truck down to the Laos border. At the border you must pay 5USD (or kip equivalent) to get stamped out of Laos. Onwards, the speedboat to Stung Treng is 10USD per person. At the Cambodian border, pay about 10-20USD (bargain - don't over do it). This is now much easier and frequently used - but there is still no visa on arrival.
Typical tourist trail: Chang Mai crossing, boat to Luang Prabang with an overnight stop. Bus to Vangviang then Vientiane (or in reverse). Then sometimes back to Thailand or the bumpy ride onto Vietnam
Dangers: Considering how sleepy Laos is you would not expect any danger, but take a look at your countries advisory website, there have been bomb blasts in Vientiane and guerrilla activity in the past. There is of course much unexploded ordinance in rural areas.
Hot/cold, wet and dry: You will not be able to travel happily by road to the north and south of the country in the wet season, but high rivers make river travel possible at and after this time of year.
Costs: Cheap, even with eating like a king in Luang Prabang $15 a day is fine. However boat trips and air fairs are subject to foreigner pricing and drain your funds a little. North Laos is cheaper than the South.
Money: Count on no ATMs, the ATMs situation is constantly changing as Laos continues to develop. At present only count on finding an ATM in the capital. Best to use ATMs in Thailand to get USD or THB cash and take this across if needed. USD traveller cheques fine in big cities. The kip comes in small notes and takes some carrying if you change a lot at once
Getting around: Fast boats give you the thrill of your life, but on reflection are not that safe, but amazing on say the Nam Ou river if there is enough water. Slow boats are more relaxed, but a little noisy. Try one of each. Some buses okay, others very hard work. You are sometimes limited to the back of trucks, this is why river transport is such a blessing. Travelling in Laos is hard work.
Guide book: Rough Guide. For a full list of regional guides and other reading please click here.
People vibe:
Locals: Some foreigner pricing, but generally friendly
Other travellers: Some want-to-be hard core travellers, generally the normal 'Banana Pancake' crowd
Tourist factor: 8/10 to 4/10, depending on how much punishment your arse/butt takes getting somewhere
Accommodation: Some nice places, often basic, but very cheap
Hot water: Limited, only in bigger towns
Average cost: $7, more expensive in Vientiane
Communications: Internet in Vientiane, Luang Prabang and Vangviang
Media: Limited, but developing all the time (by the time you read this, the way things are going there will be a 10 screen cinema complex in Vangviang). For photos click here
Food: Brilliant food in Lunag Prabang, god bless the French for bringing their bread and little triangles of cream cheese. Food a little limited to rice outside major backpacker centres
Vegetarians: Generally fine
Hassle and annoyance factor: None
Women alone: Fine, beware of Buddhist and local customs
Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Opium and grass readily available in most of the country. Great beer, but do us all a favour and don't buy the t-shirt |
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