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 Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 10:07 pm Post subject: Backpacking in Cambodia Guide |
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Backpacking in Cambodia Guide
Introduction:
There are perhaps three reasons why Cambodia is the new top destination in Southeast Asia. One it sounds pretty adventurous and still is, second it's close to Thailand and finally it contains one of the greatest wonders in the world. The beaches (Kompong Som - better in Thailand, less crowded in South Vietnam) are not really that fantastic given the standard of the region (although the area is very beautiful) and with getting around such a pain there is not too much to do of real interest that the rest of Asia (outside SE Asia) can't offer. However, few places in the world rival Angkor and it alone is motivation enough to head to Cambodia.
Typical tourist trail:
From Bangkok to Angkor, then by boat to the capital Phnom Penh (PP) and sometimes onto the coast, often onto Saigon.
Highlights: The temples of Angkor and learning something about the country's murderous past.
Lowlights: Road travel, package type tourists and massive development at Angkor and new 'I am the hardest traveller type crowds'
Visa strategy:
Easy in Bangkok with the cheapest agencies were quoting B900 plus one ID photo for one working day delivery. The one month visa is that it starts from the date of issue. 45 days visa can also be obtained for the same price but in 2 working days. It seems however possible to have them starting later than the date of issue. The cost at the Embassy (254 6630, just north of Lumphini Park on Ratchadamri Rd) is about $20 (you are required to return the next day for same day $9 extra). This embassy is usually busy and open from 9 to 11am only for applications. At Poipet or Hat Lek borders, the 1 month visa delivered in 5mn cost B1000 plus one photo (in theory, it should also be possible to pay the normal $20 but, in practice, officials insist that you pay in Bahts as the exchange rate is at their advantage and seem to go straight into their pocket). Other scams were also reported at Hat Lek.
There are now six full international border crossings between Cambodia and Thailand; all are open 07:00-20:00 and Visa on Arrival is available at every single one, official tourist visa price is USD20 (you MUST pay in USD notes to get this price) but in practice you're likely to have to pay 1000 Baht (plus, if you're not careful - reports of 1300 Baht are not uncommon!) at Poipet and Koh Kong. At the airports of Phnom Penh or Siem Reap, it cost $20 plus 2 photos. See Laos for Cambodia to Laos border crossing details.
Dangers: You are not really likely to get blown up sticking to the tourist trail, but do take care. The north and east can be lawless if you spend the days getting there. Watch out for sun-burn riding on the roof of the boat from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. Bag snatching continues to be a problem in Phnom Penh
Hot/cold, wet and dry: Normally very hot, avoid May-July. Christmas is the best and most crowded time to visit weather wise, but most crowded.
Costs: Most things cheap, some foreigner pricing (boat from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap - really named Siêmréab) and $40 three day Angkor pass ensure costs mount up. Hotels good value.
Money: There are still no international ATMs in Cambodia, it is advisable to take cash - USD or THB. Traveller cheques could be cashed (could someone let me know if they do find an ATM last report Nov-04, still no ATM)
Getting around: Take boats wherever possible, roads on the whole are some of the worst in the region, if not the world. Ferries are normally safe overloading is the real problem. Boat traffic is generally frequent enough that at least one boat a day departs for most destinations. It is certainly recommended if you are not a sucker for punishment, to fly in and out of the country if possible. However, the road to the coast is in okay condition and over the past few years there has been many improvements on other roads, (Phnom Penh to Battambang 3.5 hours PP-Siem Reap - 5-6 hours)
What to take: Your International Vaccination Certificate at some borders, you get fined (small amount) if you cannot show it (or a photocopy), this is a scam
Guide book: Lonely Planet widely used, good Angkor section, available for $7 in Siem Reap, but not really needed. Other good just Angkor guides available on site. For a full list of regional guides and other reading please click here.
People vibe:
Locals: Smiling, friendly locals, who have learnt to say 'one dollar' very quickly. This 'give me your American money' attitude can jade your experience - similar to when tourists first came en mass to Vietnam.
Other travellers: Lots of package type tourists and Japanese at Angkor. Quite a lot of want-to-be h*arcore backpackers with a supercilious attitude towards others who really seems to think they are doings something cool and different. Please, this is South East Asia!
Tourist factor: 6/10
Accommodation: Great mid-range hotels at good prices, easy in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh.
Hot water: Never a problem in major towns
Average cost: $15-30, great mid range rooms in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh.
Communications: Loads of Internet in major towns
Media: For photos click here
Books: Some expensive book shops in Phnom Penh. Many books to read regarding Cambodia's infamous past and the spilling over of the Vietnam war into Cambodia
TV: Cable TV in main city hotels and bars
Food: Limited choice and for what you get, buy Asian standards, expensive.
Vegetarians: No problem (can you eat Spiders!?)
Hassle and annoyance factor: 4/10, touts in Siem Reap and a few beggars. Frustrating 'one dollar' attitude in Siem Reap around temples. Recent report of motorcycle bag snatching in Phnom Penh.
Women alone: Never a problem
Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Great (but not overly cheap) draught beer and pool in Phnom Penh. Grass no longer that widely available, but still about. |
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